Chevy Lumina

What sensor?? most are held on with screws..

A turn signal not working on a 92 Chevy Lumina may be out because of a burnt out bulb. If you replace the bulb and it is still not working, the turn signal switch may need to be replaced. You can get the switch replaced by a mechanic.

well the question is a bit vague but I'll try. Assuming that the battery isn't dead and the starter is cranking fine my first thought would be your fuel pump is shot Chevy fuel pumps are notorious for failure even with low miles I had to replace my brothers fuel pump on his 96 Chevy and it only had 58,000 miles on it. But to know for sure wether the pump is bad or not you will have to do a fuel pressure test. You can test the fuel pressure by getting a fuel pressure gauge and attaching it to the test port on the fuel rail and watching the gauge as somebody tries to crank it over if the gauge reads beetween 40 and 60 PSI then the pump is good if not then replace the pump most likely if pump is bad you will get a reading of 0 to 5 PSI. Hopefully this helps.

get an obd2 scan to check for codes. many causes; tune-up, tps sensor, egr valve and dpfe sensor, o2 sensors etc... so get an engine diag.

-Switch spark plugs to factory motocraft plugs. Cheep and efficient! Also eliminates spark knocking with manual transmition and hitching or hesitation. Good Luck!

My son's 91 sedan would crank over nicely, but never try to start. We sprayed a short shot of ether into the air intake and it started instantly. This proved that we had ignition, but not getting fuel to any cylinders. A shop tested for the electric pulses to the injectors and saw none. He then disconnected the wireing plug to the one injector that is accessable, and the engine started and ran on 5 cylinders. That one injector was shorted and was killing the pulses to all the rest of the injectors. If the bad one was one of the ones that are buried under the cover, we may never have figured this one out! Jim Harlan, Albuquerque If the above-answer didn't help, check your fuel pressure. You might have a bad fuel pump or pump relay

To adjust the cable, pull up the cable release at the rear of the throtle body and move the cable all the way to the rear, Then get inside the car and mash the accelerator all the way to the floor. This should adjust it.

The reason is: When you completely run out of gas your gas lines are completely drained of fuel. When you refuel the car the fuel lines are still empty, and you will need to crank the car until the fuel pump has filled the gas lines and established the correct fuel pressure. it's possible you burnt up the fuel pump running it with no gas.

probably yes it started by 1990 in most vehicles for theft reasons

For a 1996 Contour, the answer is NO. A standard hardware store or locksmith key will work fine.

Your throttle is sticking open. I had an incident many years ago. I took foot off throttle which let the engine slow down, put foot on brake, the engine didn't speed up but the car did, very strange and was told impossible.

under dash on drivers side, in either a clip adjacent to the steering column. or in convenience center.

A trailing arm is suspension on a vehicle where an arm is attached to the body. These are most commonly found on airplanes and are used to reduce the impact when landing.

the only difference between the two models is the trim. The LS comes with leather interior, woodgrain trims.

probably your security system .

Search google for "Bypass GM Vats Security"

Get a sledge hammer, and hit it a couple times. Should come right off. Make sure to clean up afeter yourself. We dont want you bleeding on the floor. Or you can pour gasoline and put it on fire. Keep doing it, and it should melt right off.

You don't unless you are parked with the engine running. If you are parked and you want the engine running but don't want the daytime running lights on just shut the car off and set the parking brake then start the car back up. The lights should remain off until you release the parking brake.

When it happened on my 95 Lumina Van it was the rear brake cylinder, a $4.00 part. The car couldn't be driven according to the mechanic, so it cost me $100.00 to have replaced.

A good metric socket set, penetrating oil, and a big hammer. Actually, an impact wrench is the key. Keep in mind that the caliper itself is held on by 2 bolts to the caliper bracket. And the bracket is held to the car by 2 other (I think larger) bolts. The 2 that hold the calipers to the brackets are loosened every time you change pads and therefore are usually not as hard to remove as the 2 that hold the bracket to the car. Not only that, but these 2 bolts have what look like washers on them but these "washers" are actually part of the nut. This gives them a large "friction" area. And this friction area has ridges or grooves on it so as to sort of "embed" themselves to whatever they tighten up against. So don't try removing them with steady pressure, but rather a "beating" motion. An impact wrench would be ideal. You will require a 15mm socket or wrench for the caliper slider bolts, and a T60 torx for the bracket If your doing the rear you will need 18mm wrench

The PCV Valve on a 1995 Chevy Lumina 3.4L is located in the line that comes off the rear intake manifold between the throttle body & the intake. This line is on the back side of the throttle body and intake manifold where the two come together and make a "L" shape. The middle of the "L" shape has a approx. 1/2" rubber line that comes out and is held in place by a sqweeze tight mettle clamp. If you follow that line for aprox. 6" you will come to the PCV Valve.

Mine was covered with another 1" hose over the top of it, so you will need to remove that carefully. The bottom of the PCV Valve is a plastic line.

You do not need a L shape PCV valve, my 3.4L lumina needed a straight PCV Valve.

it only took me 4 hours to find it :(

1. Disconnect the battery

2. Place a socket wrench in the belt tensioner and turn it up. This lets you slide the belt off of the alternator.

3. The alternator is held on to the engine with four bolts which need to be removed.

4. On the top of the alternator you will see a wire plug. Remove the plug and loose the bolt that is holding it in place. Then simply remove the alternator.

This is pretty easy. I am far from a mechanic but it only took me five minutes to do this.

Is this a automatic? if it is my guess would be the transmission and or the overdrive converter. More info would really help. , EzForJesus

I was told by a friend who's a mechanic to remove the EGR valve (a little penetrating oil first on the 2 studs so that you don't break the studs when loosening the nuts), take a section of broken speedometer cable clamped in a drill, and roto-rooter out the ports in the manifold. He said they get clogged with carbon if driven under city conditions for long periods of time. I tried it on my '94 3.8 V6 and it stopped the lurching.

Not sure if the '92 Lumina has an inertia switch or not. The inertia switch (also called fuel shut-off switch) will trip in an accident and shut off the electrical power to the fuel pump. You might want to check your owner's manual to see if there is one and where it is located. Also to learn how to reset it.

How many quarts does a 1995 lumina transmission take?

Locate your two large coolant hoses. One connects to the lower part of the radiator and runs to your water pump. The large hose that connects at the top of the radiator is the map leading to the treasure. Trace the upper hose until it connects to the engine. The hose should be connected to a dome shaped metal housing. There should be two or three bolts that fasten the dome housing to the engine. Remove those bolts, but expect to have some coolant spill out(good idea to have a catch pan under vehicle). The thermostat is located in the dome housing. Take note as to which way the thermostat is facing so as to not install the new one in backwards. clean the old gasket and silicone from the two mating surfaces(a razor blade and gasket remover spray work well). I'll empasize that you must clean the surfaces thuroughly or you will have a leak when you are done. After cleaning place the new thermostat in the engine opening the same way you found the old one. Place gasket making silicon on the new paper gasket(gasket normally supplied w/ new thermostat). Don't use an excessive amount of silicone, but make sure both sides of the paper gasket surface are well covered. Place the dome shaped housing back on the engine opening making sure the thermostat stays in place. Also make sure that the gasket with silicon on it is between the engine opening and dome housing. Line up the bolt holes and start threading them by hand. Tighten the bolts with a wrench, alternating back and forth until they are snug. You want the bolts to be tight enough to make a good seal and not viberate out. However, do not overtighten them to the point of breaking something. Have fun! Chris

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**Another point of view.

Typical of automotive engineers, they designed a 3/4 inch tube to block the removal of the flange to the thermostat. Instead of using a simple bolt and spacer, they have a one piece bolt and stud holding the upper radiator hose connection and a brace for the 3/4 inch tube. The tube can only be properly removed if the exhaust manifold is removed, as the exhaust manifold was installed over the attachment point of the tube. Not real bright on the engineer's part. The easy way to replace the thermostat is to remove the nut holding the 3/4" tube from the flange stud. Next remove the bolt/stud holding the bottom of the thermostat flange. You may have to grind a cheap 13mm open end wrench thinner to fit the tight space. I used a cheap stubby 13mm open end ground thin. In the process of removing that bolt/stud, the small attachment bracket for the 3/4" tube will be bent. No problem...just bend it straight later. Remove the other bolt holding the flange covering the thermostat. Clean the old rubber gasket from the counter bored thermostat seat.

You don't need silicone to seal anything. The thermostat comes with a rubber gasket, and also a paper gasket for spacing. If you don't use the paper gasket, the flange will be bent when you tighten down on the bolts because the rubber gasket is thick. Instead of reusing the original lower bolt/stud combination, I used an 8mm-1.25 X 45mm bolt, nut, a flat washers, and a spring type split lock washer . Position the thermostat with the rubber and paper gasket, the upper radiator piping flange over the thermostat, and install the upper bolt finger tight. Straighten the previously bent attachment flange on the 3/4" tube. Put the lock washer and the flat washers onto the bolt. Now holding the 8mm nut between the thermostat flange and the flange for the 3/4" tube, screw the 8mm bolt through the tubing flange and the nut you're holding and into the flange for the thermostat. It may take two wrenches: One to hold the nut, and the other to turn the bolt. You will simply have to tighten the bold in such a manner that the nut and the bolt tighten down simultaneously to where the thermostat flange and the 3/4" tubing flange are tightened snug. It is more important that the nut holding the thermostat flange is tight than the bolt holding the 3/4" tubing flange. The 3/4" tubing only has to be secure in that it won't have any looseness. Note: Do not use a bolt any longer than the 45mm length. If you do, you'll probably crack the thermostat mount or punch through and hit coolant. Of course you can always just reuse the original bolt/stud if you don't mind wrestling with it. This explanation sounds difficult to understand, but once you get into it, it will all make sense. You can use two or three flat washers to make sure that you don't go too deep with the bolt.

do some suspension and wheel well work and yes they will fit

I have heard that the newer ones are mounted behind the harmonic balancer. On my 92 3.1 it is mounted in the engine block on the rear bank, driver side. Back near where the trans mounts to the engine. You'll have to get under the car to see it.