Chevy Prizm

I just changed oil on my sister-in-law's '02 Prizm. It took a 15mm.

I have a 2000 LSI model but it is the same body style as the '98. Standing in front of the car look on the left (passenger) side of the engine near the serpentine belt (slightly under the highest part of the serpentine belt. You will see a metal bracket which is the tensioner. It is larger than you might expect a tensioner to be. On the bracket is what looks like a nut that is simply part of the hardware, it can't be removed (I don't know the word for this). Put your wrench or socket (use a long one) on this "fake nut" and pull towards you. You can see and feel the tension on the belt loosen. Be sure to take note of the belt route before removing the old belt. Loosen the tension and remove the old belt. Easiest installation of the new belt is done by putting the new belt on the upper pulleys first, but then getting under the car. For easiest access you can jack up the car (put it on a jack stand) and remove the front passenger tire. After you remove the dust/splash guard under the car, you can easily see the belt pulleys on the under side of the engine. You may need a second person to hold the tensioner in the "belt loose" position while you install the new belt. My wife handled this just fine. This is how I changed the belt; it took me ten minutes. By the way, this is not as difficult as it sounds.

There is a good chance that the compressor isn't damaged at all. All modern automotice A/C systems have a low pressure cut-off switch to prevent the compressor from running in the event that the refrigerant runs low, or completely out. Grab a can of R-134a refrigerant (they sell them with the gauge built on to the can these days) and hook it up. Turn the A/C on in the car and begin filling the system, once the pressure reaches a high enough level in the refrigerant system, the compressor should kick on (you'll hear it click and start to run). That should answer both questions. :)

Usually 6.5-7" rear, 4.5-4.75" front

the engine oil pressure unit in the dahsboard is leaking.

uses 185 /65 14" s,or t rating ok

There are 2 fuse boxes ... One is under the back seat on the drivers side the other is in the engine compartment .. When you are facing the truck on the right hand side near the windshield ... It is fairly large ... Inside the lid is a diagram to find the fuse ... The one for my 4x4 was in the box inside the truck There are 2 fuse boxes ... One is under the back seat on the drivers side the other is in the engine compartment .. When you are facing the truck on the right hand side near the windshield ... It is fairly large ... Inside the lid is a diagram to find the fuse ... The one for my 4x4 was in the box inside the truck

Under the housing where the upper radiator hose hooks to the engine.

The 2000 through 2002 Chevrolet Prizm all use the same spark plugs and this procedure The manufacturer recommended iridium plugs cost about $10.00 apiece and last about 150,000 miles. The platinum plugs cost about $2.00 apiece and last about 50,000 miles. For the hassle involved in repacing the plugs, Iridium plugs are better Tools you will need before you start 1. 1/4" ratchet 2. 1/4" extention 3. 10 mm socket, 1/4" drive 4. small flat bladed screwdriver 5. 3/8" ratchet 6. 3/8" long extention 7. 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8 " drive 8. air compressor with blow gun or can of compressed air 9. long needle nose pliers 10. 1/4" internal diameter rubber hose 8 inches long 11. wire coat hanger 12. neverseez lubricant Procedure 1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine 2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover 3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block. 4. Use compressed air to blow out debris around the blocks 5. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block. 6. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine. 7. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block 8. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness. 9. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole. 10. Blow compressed air down the hole to remove debris 11. Use a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extention to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed. 12. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed. 13. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting neverseez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes 14. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extention, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needlenose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coathanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the sparkplug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the auto parts store. 15. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more. 16. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt 17. replace the electrical clip. 18. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure. 19. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to retighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail 20. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done

You you need to remove several small bolts on the lower part of the dashboard on both sides (most are on the bottom by your feet) as well as one inside the glove box to remove the whole dashboard. Take care of the dash vents, the one by left side of the steerling wheel has an insert inside to direct the airflow and there is one located underneath the steerling wheel that is pointed toward your feet. The speakers are located inside sealed boxes that will need to be un-bolted from the car frame to replace the speakers. You shouldn't need to cut any part of the existing grills bult-in to the dashboard to fit most newer model speakers. My speakers still had the factory speaker harnesses attached, so connecting the wires was fast and easy. MAKE sure to color code the wires from the wiring harness by the deck BEFORE you wire up the speakers, the color coding in my car was completely different than the manual or what the wiring kit stated. (PS: the speaker size inside a 1990 is 4" for the front and I used 3 way Autobans w/ a crossover and they fit fine). Putting everything back together the same way you removed it to finish everything off.

The front speakers are 4.75" (yes, a non-standard size) and the rears are 7.0" (you guessed it, another non-standard size). 4.5" aftermarket speakers will fit the front with some additional foam baffling round them to make them air-tight and 5.25" and 6.5" speakers will fit the rear with a Scosche adapter bracket. I have 6.5 inch Pioneer speakers in back. I just screwed the new speakers in the stock mounts and it worked fine.

Disconnect the ground cable from your battery, remove the bolts holding the old one on and then take the wires loose and put the new one in.

If it's the standard engine, yes. Both the first generation ('89-'92) and second generation ('93-'97) Prizms were powered by the same engine, the 4A-FE, but the option of a more powerful engine was also available to buyers, the 4A-GE engine for the first generation cars and the 7A-FE for the second generation cars.

not any oil in your heater core although the heater core uses coolant coming from and returning to the engine so when damaged or being worked on coolant can leak under the dash and into the floor

The shut off switch is in the nearside (Passenger) scuttle somewhere near the fuse box.

sounds like the starter solenoid is going bad. had this happen on my car. very common in prizms. get it fixed soon while the car still starts...

I just changed the speakers in my 01 about a month ago. The speaker covers are mounted "TO" the rear deck. You have to remove the rear deck to change the speakers out. I left the factory covers on, because I wasn't sure I could mount the aftermarket ones back and look good. I believe they were held on with a washer and pop rivot type of setup. Hope this helps

this job is super easy. the plastic around the radio and heater controls, and the ash try, just pulls off( it will take some prying, maybe). then there will be some screws holding the radio in place. remove the screws, and go to wal-mart. there they have a plug that you can buy, and you may need an adapter kit( new plastic for around the radio). the plug is in automotive, with the car stereos. it plugs into the factory plug at one end, and has loose wires on the other. plug in, then match the colored wires of the other end to the wires of the after market stereo. put it all back together, and enjoy!!!

The thermostat is part of a housing unit attached to the drivers side of the engine. You will probably have to loosen the alternator to get to the one bolt. These thermostats tend to fail in the open position so your engine runs too cool. All the answers and diagrams are at our enthusiasts forum - www.trailvoy.com

I had this problem some time ago. If I remember correctly, I removed the plastic panel beside the driver's seat to access the mechanism that controls the light. Again, if I remember this correctly, I simply cleaned the "contacts" in this part. I did not purchase any parts. .

The alternator blocks access to it. You need to remove the serpentine belt, then the alternator to get to the thermostat.

That means the engine is running HOT for some reason. Check the thermostat, Radiator and coolant level. Repair as needed.

I have a 2002 Prism. It does have a fuel filter but only a mechanic can replace it. The repair book I bought suggests this isn't a "do it yourself" job.