Chrysler

Mostly no, but a few parts are.

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A good place to start would be to pull the starter out and have it tested. Here most auto parts stores will test a starter for free.

Check and make sure all the plugs going to the ECU and PCM are plugged in.

Look at the rear of the radiator approx. 1/3 down from the top

There are two flashers, one for the hazards and one for the signals.

Many materials including and not limited to wood, concrete, steel, bricks, aluminum, stone, etc.

Skechers USA, 1992-, CEO.

Find the fuse for it and pull it.

Blue smoke = Blue smoke is caused by engine oil entering the cylinder area and being burned along with the fuel air mixture.

Black smoke = Black smoke is caused by excess fuel that has entered the cylinder area and cannot be burned completely. Another term for excess fuel is "running rich."

White Smoke = White smoke is caused by coolant entering the cylinder, and the engine trying to burn it with the fuel. The white smoke is steam.

Warning: If you see white smoke, stop driving this car immediately. Severe engine damage will occur if you continue to drive this vehicle. You have severe engine problems as in a blown head gasket or cracked head.

Problem with the SRS. Take it to a professional for repair. This repair is not a DIY job. Serious injury can occur.

IF YOU HAVE A NEW OWNERS BOOK ON YOUR NEON WHICH COMES WITH THE CAR IN THE GLOVE BOX IT WILL TELL YOU WHICH FUSE IT IS. OPEN THE BOOK TO THE BACK PAGES OF THE INDEX AND LOOK UNDER FUSES. THEN FLIP TO THE PAGE AND LOOK THROUGH TILL YOU FIND CIG LIGHTER AND ITS LOCATION SHOULD BE THERE.THE BOOK HAS BETTER DETAILS THAN THE FUSE BOX DOES.

I just ended up clipping the wire to the on off switch

It is between the rear seat back and the trunk. You have to remove the rear seat to access.

-- Simply reach in, pop off the rubber cap to access the bulb. It's held in place with a little metal clasp which you can unclip once you've disconnected the bulb (Just pull on the connector). swap the bulbs over, clip the clasp back in and push the connector back on. Place rubber cap back on to keep the water out and you are ready to go!

** This is 100% accurate. The guy that tore the whole front of his car apart to change the bulb is a dumb dumb, or is visually impaired! Cheers to the second blokes good advice that I just reposted.

http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/chrysler-crossfire/TAK78RTDSL2KKSMSB

I just did this today, and it is a bear!! Trial and error gave me the following sequence:

1)Jack up and support front of car, remove both front tires.

2)Remove belly pan under engine.

3)Remove forward plastic part of inside fender, both sides.

4) Remove bumper cover and grille.

5) You did all of this just to access the 2 lower bolts holding the headlight bucket in!!! Believe me, there is no other way.

6)Remove those bolts and the 2 bolts on brackets holding top of headlight bucket

7)Wrestle bucket out, place on bench. Take careful note of how it came out!

8)Remove #10 Torx screws holding plate with lamp. You'll see the spring dingus holding the lamp to the plate. Best if you have a magnetic tipped torx driver or long skinny magnet.

9) Plug in new lamp

10) Reverse the whole procedure. Be careful with bumper cover! It is awkward and contains metal parts that will scratch your paint!

11)Thank me. It took me many hours in 95+ heat to figure this out, and as far as I can tell no one else has posted this info anywhere! It will take you about an hour and a half.

"I gotta tell you, I can't see why this is necessary. Simply reach in, pop off the rubber cap to access the bulb. It's held in place with a little metal clasp which you can unclip once you've disconnected the bulb (Just pull on the connector). swap the bulbs over, clip the clasp back in and push the connector back on. Place rubber cap back on to keep the water out and you are ready to go!

It's a little awkward as it is tucked in behind the front brace, but nothing that would make it necessary to start dismatling the front of your car!

I reckon on 5 minutes."

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** It's true - don't listen to the first guys

The question needs to be clarified...are you replacing a bulb or the entire headlight assembly? Entire headlight assembly requires dismantling.

This happened on my sons 1995 Concorde. We thought it was the turn signal flasher, located under the sterring wheel. It is a black box with alot of wires coming out of it...kind of hard to get to in the small cramped spot. We replaced it and is still didn't work. Took it to the Chrysler Dealer and it turned out to be a wire that had came loose from the battery and the dealer charged me $70 to show me where and to hook it back up. The following are the directions I got from another forum I go to when I need Help. "Remove the black panel from under the driver's side dash (heater duct) and look for a white plastic box between the column and the parking brake, the flasher is a square shaped and about 3" long and made of black plastic like you found out with a 4 or 5 wire harness connection hooked to it (also black), you will need a small screwdriver or a key to slip in between the flasher and it's mount to unclip it and it will slide off the mounting tab. Aftermarket Flashers will not have the mounting slots for remounting, you may need to get a replacement from the dealer or a used one at a wrecking yard if you want to mount the replacement in the same location. Be aware that some models have 4 terminals (usually 93-94 models) and others have 5 terminals (95-up), get the replacement with the correct number of terminals as they do not interchange. I included some digital shots of mine in my LHS but they are in the same location for the Concorde too, might be a little fuzzy but should give you an idea on what you are looking for. The panel that must be removed to gain access And the flasher. Note mine is a 4 wire, yours may or may not be a 5 wire."

1. Take the cover over the radiator and headlamp assembly off. Under that you'll see the headlamp assemblies each have 2 mounting screws.
2. Take off all the top mounts of the front. Chrysler has also hidden side mounting screws behind the wheel well walls.
3. Take off the bulb.
4. Put in the new bulb.
5. Place all parts back into their original places.

The rear 3 plugs are almost inaccessible, the BOTTOM LINE is that you would need to actually drop the rear on the engine and use of a "cradle" to tackle the removal and installation of spark plugs. The metal AIR plenum at the rear of the engine is insulated and there is NOT ENOUGH room to access and work in the rear bay. My best advice is to unfotunately, take it to a shop or the Dodge Dealer. It will rance from 150-300 dollars for mopar plugs and labor.

it could be a bad chip in the key or the starter. i could almost gaurantee that if you keep trying to turn it on it will start. i know someone with the same problem, and he turns the key over and over and it started.

The battery is inside the driver side fender in front of the tire.

You find and repair the leak in the evaporative fuel system. It could be anywhere between the gas cap and the engine. Check all vacuum hoses and lines for cracks or holes.

Chrysler doesn't use fuel cut off switches, the fuel system is computer controlled with relays.

The three available engines in a 2007 Chrysler 300 are 2.7L, 3.5L, and 5.7L.

It is on because the engine computer has detected a malfunction with the electronic throttle control system.

The ideal way is to read them with a scan tool, fix the problem , and then reset them with the scan tool. Failing that you can unhook the battery and reset the codes until the failure reoccurs.