Distributors and Distributor Caps

Short answer: Fires the spark plugs. The ignition coil is nothing more that an electrical transformer. It contains both primary and secondary winding circuits. The coil primary winding contains 100 to 150 turns of heavy copper wire. This wire must be insulated so that the voltage does not jump from loop to loop, shorting it out. If this happened, it could not create the primary magnetic field that is required. The primary circuit wire goes into the coil through the positive terminal, loops around the primary windings, then exits through the negative terminal. The coil secondary winding circuit contains 15,000 to 30,000 turns of fine copper wire, which also must be insulated from each other. The secondary windings sit inside the loops of the primary windings. To further increase the coils magnetic field the windings are wrapped around a soft iron core. To withstand the heat of the current flow, the coil is filled with oil which helps keep it cool. The ignition coil is the heart of the ignition system. As current flows through the coil a strong magnetic field is built up. When the current is shut off, the collapse of this magnetic field to the secondary windings induces a high voltage which is released through the large center terminal. This voltage is then directed to the spark plugs through the distributor.

the rotor fong on the brick and bracken causes the rack and pinion to slip. Change the synchromesh, and eat retsyn.

Ok, there is a one bolt that holds in the disributor. it will be conected to a crows foot looking clamp. Take the bolt out and on Fords it more of a pain then just Chevy's. Chevy's just twist out while pulling. Fords are the same . but to put it back in you have to bump the motor until it falls in. Kind of a pain to set timming. But usually you hold it where the #1 spark plug is and it will fall into place. It's a two man operation.

Ok, there is a one bolt that holds in the disributor. it will be conected to a crows foot looking clamp. Take the bolt out and on Fords it more of a pain then just Chevy's. Chevy's just twist out while pulling. Fords are the same . but to put it back in you have to bump the motor until it falls in. Kind of a pain to set timming. But usually you hold it where the #1 spark plug is and it will fall into place. It's a two man operation. To make it super simple.

correct firing order on a 350 is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2-,the number 1 plug is the first cyl on the drivers side.in order from front to back left to right is 1-3-5-7-2-4-6-8

The distributor handles several jobs. Its first job is to distribute the high voltage from the coil to the correct cylinder. This is done by the cap and rotor. The coil is connected to the rotor, which spins inside the cap. The rotor spins past a series of contacts, one contact per cylinder. As the tip of the rotor passes each contact, a high-voltage pulse comes from the coil. The pulse arcs across the small gap between the rotor and the contact (they don't actually touch) and then continues down the spark-plug wire to the spark plug on the appropriate cylinder. When you do a tune-up, one of the things you replace on your engine is the cap and rotor -- these eventually wear out because of the arcing. Also, the spark-plug wires eventually wear out and lose some of their electrical insulation. This can be the cause of some very mysterious engine problems.

Depending on maker, it should have a number 1 raised letter on the cap

Maybe try putting the distributor wire back on and see if the jerking stops.

Are you using any gas stabilizer while the van sits? Also are you leaving the van with a full tank to prevent condensation? If the tank is not fuel, condensation can form inside and that turns into water in your gas. USe an additive liek Stabil when you park the van and make sure the tank is topped off. Gas will deteriorate over time, just how much time has a lot to do with conditions.

Most late model engines have fixed (non adustable) timing and idle speed adjustments. If there is a problem with either, it's probably related to an input signal to your car's on board engine management computer.

to go beneath the surface of the earth.

http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/how_to/images/distributor.png

To remove and replace the distributor on the 1988 Audi 90 proceed as follows:1: First remove the cap.2: Take a picture or make a note of the position of the rotor.3: Next before loosening or removing the hold-down bolt, mark the position of the distributor base by scratching or scribing a line from the distributor flange to the engine block. (this will be useful as the approximate location to install the new one).4: Remove the hold-down bolt or nut which ever is used.5: Tap sideway lightly on the distributor housing to break it loose from it bore. Then remove it from the block using care in regards to the oil that may be dripping from the gear at the bottom end.

Installing the new distributor.

1: Place the distributor into the bore while holding the rotor in the position of the old one. (you made a note this of earlier).

2: Be sure to install it so the flange at the bottom of the ditributor housing bottoms on the engine block surface.

3: Install the hold-down clamp and loosly tighten it to hold the distributor from spinning.

4: Install the cap. and you ready to perform the ignition timing adjustment.

I hope this info was helpful.

Firing order is 1-3-4-2.

I have a 98 expedition, and i had a bad coil, they are hard to get to i guess some of them are way in the back toward the dash. if your check engine light is on, it should say " cylinder # misfire, then look in your manuel and see how the cylinders are are placed in the truck. When one of mine needed to be replaced , symptoms were, ideling funny, spitting and sputering ect pretty cheep fix around $200.00 coil/labor together.

I can answer this because a buddy of mine did it. A distributor from a 305 will fit a 350, however it will not perform as well. Loss of horse power and you won't be able to get the timing set perfectly, because of this you will need to adjust the carburator. to the timing. It's a headache, my buddy bought his that way and didn't know it. He fought with it for two years before he figured it out. Once he put the right distributor in, it made a world of difference on the speed. Hope this helps.

sorry mait but your wrong the distributor will work fine in a 350 the one your buddy had must of had bad points or a bad cap or bad advance.

1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

and the cylinders are 1234-5678 starting on the left front to left rear

and right front to right rear ---------------------------------------------- * WHEN FACING THE ENGINE * Also , the distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE and the marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the rear and slightly towards the drivers side of the engine

1995 ford f-150. I replaced the one on my focus. I got a cylinder and with my vin number you put the numbered tabs in so you can use your old key. If you can turn the switch, turn your steering wheel and look for a little button that you can push to take out the cylinder, it should pull out if the key is in. If you can't turn it, you must drill into the cylinder where your key goes and thread an eye bold in it, use a puller and pull the cylinder out. then you will be able to turn it to get the housing out and put your new one it. ask you DEALER, they will be very helpful, even if you D-I-Y. It depends on what you are referring to. The "real" ignition switch isn't the key/lock cylinder. The ignition switch is at the bottom of the steering column. As always when dealing with electrical you should 1st disconnect battery ground. Remove the steering column shroud and lower the column. disconnect the wiring going to the switch. 2 nuts hold on the switch. Lift switch up to disengage the actuator rod and then remove switch. When re-installing, everything needs to be in the lock position for proper adjustment(the key needs to be in lock as well) put rod back in new switch, put back on column and loosely put on the nuts. Move switch up and down to locate mid position of rod lash then tighten the nuts. Remove the locking pin that came with the new switch. Return your column and hook up battery. make sure everything works..You're good to go.

Take out your Ignition Control Module (ICM for short). Take it to a parts store to have it tested. If it's good, check your cam and crank position sensors. Also, check the lead wire from the cap to the coil Also you can take out the distribuator and look at the gear on the bottom the gear is know to wear out after 100,000 miles on the vulcan engine 3.0. You can take out or disconect the SPOUT and see if the car starts. If it does change the computer. GL_ Good Luck.

Depends some distributors are vertical some horozontal put the plug end in with wires facing away from center of distributor

step 1 - phrase your question so it makes sense. step 2 - include meaningful information. step 3 - follow instructions from answer that was derived from a non-gibberish question.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

I think where ever the rotor is pointing when #1 cylinder comes to the top is 1

1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8