Dodge Dakota

Does it tell you on the back of the fuse panel? If not go borrow a owners manual or try the library to see if they have any manuals to loook at.

You would have to connect a diagnostic tool to it to find out exactly, but, in general, the yellow check engine light indicates a problem with the emissions control system. Usually this doesn't significantly affect how the vehicle runs, and isn't a critical problem, but it does mean that the engine either may be using more fuel or may be polluting more, or both. And, if you live somewhere that requires vehicle emissions testing, your vehicle will fail automatically if the check engine light is on.

This may or may not be your problem, but (perhaps) the most common cause for the check engine light to come on in Dakotas of this age is cracked vacuum lines, particularly at a valve located near the battery, and/or near the fuel vapour canister under the cab inside the driver's side frame rail. Sometimes you can just trim the line a little shorter to eliminate the crack, but sometimes you'll need to replace the whole line. Either way, it's a really cheap fix if you do it yourself.

Also worthy of note; The check engine light can only be turned off using certain diagnostic tools, which can make it difficult to figure out if you've fixed the problem, so if you opt to purchase one, make certain that it has the ability to reset the light. Decent ones run about $50-$200.

Your power steering pump when their is a lack of power will stall and cause the engine to stall or shut off.

It could also be the wiring behind the ignition key, loose or shorting against the wheel shaft as it turns.

The cam sensor on a Dodge 4.7L is under the front outside of the passenger side cylinder head.

In the fuel tank, part of the pump assembly.

If it is noisy or it is getting voltage with a ground and isn't working, it needs replaced.

Yes

1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the FRONT / CENTER

The engine cylinder / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

8 - 7

6 - 5

4 - 3

2 - 1

front

I would suspect the Master Cylinder if defective.

I had the same problem with my 1978. I replaced the combination valve and it solved the problem after bleeding.

Here's what I have on your Automobile. Manual Transmission,.....GL-5
Below 30°C......80W
SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Manual Transmission,.....GL-5
All TEMPS......75W-90
Severe Gear 75W-90
Manual Transmission,.....GL-5
Above 0°C......90
SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Manual Transmission,.....GL-5
Above -30°C......85W
Automatic Transmission.....AF3
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Torque-Driveâ„¢ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD)
Differential, Front .....GL-5[3]
Below 32°C......80W
SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube CAPACITIES:
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill..........8.4 quarts
Manual Transmission, ..........7.4 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[2]
Differential, Rear..........1.7 pints[3]

2. Front DIFF is for automatic transmission only.
Hope This Helps.

Fuel gauges are not completely accurate. You would seem smarter if you calculated your mileage using your trip odometer. It is not as difficult as it seems and you will have a more accurate method of gauging your fuel usage and knowing your gas mileage.

Passenger side front to back. 2-4-6.

Driver side front to back. 1-3-5

The easiest most inexpensive way to have brake lights and turn signals with an RV is to wire your RV plug at the rear of your tractor OFF your taillights. An RV's turn/stop lights are wired TOGETHER, sharing the same hot wire. Where as a semi trailer is wired with three separate hot wires. One each for L and R turn, and a third and separate wire for brake light(S)2. The only other way to adapt a semi trailer plug to RV is with a converter box. I've never priced one, but understand them to be expensive. I do commercial 'Towaway' w/ semi-tractor as profession and have had and seen multiple tractors wired as I just described to you. The only other advise I would give, would be to run your wires thru a weather sealed junction box ahead of where your female plug is wired on the rear of your tractor. I have seen some setups where they just tapped into tail light wiring w/out junction box and corrosion became a BIG issue after a short period of time ,especially if you run in an area where chemicals and salt are used in winter months.

You can buy purpose made tools for this job that you use with your drill/driver to extract them. Try hammering the correct screw driver into the back of the screw to try and get some purchase on it and then keep lots of pressure on whilst turning. Make sure you turn anti- clockwise.

Go o screwfix.com and quote 72768-88 and you'll see a powergrip set made by Irwin at a cost of £30.00 or $60.00. That's what will do the job if brute force doesn't work.

I doesn't have an emergency shut-off, if the pump isn't working it is either pump failure or an electrical problem. Bang on the tank while you have someone crank, this often jogs the fuel pump getting it to run, if this happens your fuel pump is bad.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Because on a rainy day, the water acts as a lubricant to the road. Therefore your tires; being made of rubber; cannot maintain the same traction as they do on a dry road.

the only solution that you can affect at home is to check fluid level, and change the fluid and filter this should be done about every 30,000 miles, all other issues need to be dealt with by a reputable transmission specialist.

Most likely it is your speed censor modual. It is the wire that connects your speedometer to your transmission. It screws off and there is a wire connected to it. Replace this speed censor and you will get your overdrive back most likeley.

You don't have to, I don't know what model you have but all use self tensioning belt drive systems. This is a spring loaded pulley which holds the correct tension. if you have noise or slipping you either have miss routed the belt, part failure, old belt.

The transmission is 4T65E-HD (code MN7) It is a heavy duty version of the 4T65E wtih a heavy duty gearbox to handle the supercharger. Hope this helps. "G"

In PDC, two large relays on the B side, closest to the fender.

One is the fan relay, one is the ASD relay. It may be labeled "engine relay"

How much does it fluctuate? It is normal for oil pressure to rise maybe 20 pounds when you rev the engine. My SUV goes from 40 pounds to 60 pounds and then back down to 40 at idle. this is normal. The faster the engine rotates the more oil pressure is needed to keep everything lubricated properly.

No it will not. There are changes made after 03 I think. The 01 engine has a 16 tooth crank trigger and the 05 has a 31 tooth trigger. There are also possible egr port changes. I do show that the short block part # is the same from ATK. I do not see how that is possible though. Call a salvage yard and ask for the Hollander interchange,I think if they are nice you will get a answer...........