Dodge Durango

The Camshaft position sensors (One at the front bank and one at the rear bank, the rear one will require to remove the the fuel injection V-bank cover to access)are located on the cylinder head. The front bank CPS is at the RHS near the Transmission fluid dipstick. Once identified the locations, replacement is easy. Disconnect the harness cover and remove the CPS mounting screws with a ring wrench.

1. jack the vehicle up on both sides, use jack stands if possible.

2. Remove Passanger front tire, along with plastic splash shield

3. Drain coolant

4. With serpentine belt still installed, loosen the 3 bolts on the water pump pully, don't take them all the way off, just loosen them.

5. Use a 14mm wrench to reduce tention on the serpentine belt enough

so you can slide the belt off

6. Remove the water pump pully bolts, remove pully, or let it rest on the

pump shaft.

7. Remove water pump housing bolts (6 of them) and discard the gasket

8. reverse procedure to reinstall new water pump

there is no dipstick on the trans. you have a 4t40e transmission. On the bottom of the transmission on the passenger side about 1 " above the pan you will see an 11 mm bolt. Start the car in park and remove this bolt. Then add fluid through the red cap on the top until a steady stream comes out of the bolt in the bottom. Make sure you have a pan under it. Once the stream is steady, replace bolt and replace red cap and you are all filled up.

5w30

I've seen 24 and 22 inch rims done before, but require modifications to the car, 17s and 18s are common play to replace the stock 15 inch.

6 quarts 5w30

Pin 1 is +5V, pin 2 is Ground and pin 3 is the signal. Use analog voltimeter in pin 2 and 3. Crank the engine: the pointer of the voltimeter shoud oscilate in range 0V to 5V.

The 2014 Dodge Durango has a 3 yr./ 36000 mi. basic warranty.

Most likely the guide on the bottom of the regulator broke. take the door apart and check. most likely, you need a new window regulator.

Trouble code P0753 means: Shift Solenoid A Electrical

I'm not sure about the 1993 model but in the 2001 they don't have "Freon" (meaning R12) any more. The refrigerant is stored in that silver canister on the front left side of the engine-bay. R12 is expensive to replace. AC service providers are EPA licenced to service R12 & R134 systems, but they won't sell you the "stuff". So, you have to go to a service provider. I hope this helped. == 1993 Prizms still used Refrigerant-12, commonly known as "Freon". Later models use R-134. Refrigerant is distributed throughout the system. The excess refrigerant and oil is held in the drier/receiver. If you have a tight system and can afford it, stick with the R12. You will not regret it. Retrofit to R134 can be very problematic and expensive.

Both forward O2 sensors need to be replaced at the same time anyway, just replace both forward sensors and don't worry about which is which. You don't replace just the sparkplug that's misfiring, do you? Well, maybe you do, but it's the kind of thing that leaves you constantly working on your car. If one's gone bad the other is close behind.

A transmission shift solenoid is found inside the transmission housing. Replacing the unit depends on the vehicle, some allow access underneath the car while others the solenoids can be reach from above the transmission.

The 2006 Toyota Sienna has front wheel drive.

well , lets see, it requires a Mitsubishi service manual (i recommend auto zone ,advance) cost 18.95. READ,READ,READ before you turn the first wrench.

it is not hard work,just lots of it. depending on the engine,2.4l,3.0. etc...

you basically have to take everthing off front of engine, thenCAREFULLY keep every pulley and tensioner in line while you swap the belt. Work is extensive,i just finished up 2.4l engine. interference engines have to be exact when you time them or you can bend valves,damage connecting rods and pistons. This is not your dad's Chevy 305 v8 where if you goofed and turned the engine over nothing happened,these engines it will happen and the damaged is extensive. So $ 358.00 at Mitsubishi is not so bad and while you are in there don't be cheap ... replace the water pump too.

It is on the left front of engine. Points at the left front cam shaft. UNplug the wire , unscrew bolt, and pull sensor out.

Trouble code P0344 means:Camshaft position circuit intermittent

Not a terribly difficult job, but takes a while to get to. You'll need a power steering pump pulley puller and a combination of metric and standard wrenches, sockets, and a set of vice grips. Parts needed are a water pump and gasket, any additional hoses and hose clamps if you're replacing those, and a new thermostat is you are replacing that (good idea to replace it all since you're already in there, especially if the car has overheated). Parts price list: Water Pump : @ $40 new Throttle body gasket : @$10 Thermostat : a few bucks gasket sealant : a few bucks Replacement hoses and clamps : $20-30 depending on what you replace. New coolant/radiator flush kit : $20 1. Drain the system of coolant using the petcock located at the bottom passenger side of the radiator. 2. Unscrew the air intake assembly from the throttle body and the airbox and remove from car. 3. If you don't plan on replacing the thermostat at the same time, skip this step. The thermostat housing is located directly below the throttle body and is a paint to get to unless you remove the throttle body. Remove the cover to the throttle cable assembly, disconnect the throttle cables (there are two of them), and unscrew the throttle body. Remove any hoses attached to the throttly body and remove it. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the two bolts from the thermostat housing and lift the housing to expose the thermostat. The new thermostat just drops in where the old one went. There is no gasket, as this thermostat utilizes a rubber seal. Reattacht he thermostat housing. 4. Remove the drivebelt. After you have removed the drivebelt, remove the belt tensioner as well as there is abolt behind this that you will need to access. 5. Remove the power steering pump pulley with the puller. Also remove the pulley on the water pump. Since the pulley will turn, it helps if you have an oil filter strap wrench and a friend to keep the pulley immobile while you lossen the bolts. 6. Unplug the spark plugs (taking note of where they go) and unplug the electrical connectors from the coil pack assembly. Remove the bottom coil pack to access a hidden bolt to the power steering pump bracket. 7. Remove the power steering pump bracket. This will come off as one piece with the coil pack assembly attached. 8. Remove the heater core bypass hose that goes to the water pump. 9. Remove the water pump. After you have removed all of the bolts, you may need to persuade the pump by tapping it with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, you can place a block of wood on the pump and hit the block of wood with a hammer. 10. Clean the engine where the water pump will attach of any residue and gasket material. Be sure not to scratch the mating surface here. Carb cleaner and a rag works well for this. 11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Now is also a good time to flush your radiator, replace the hoses with new ones, and also inspect and replace (if necessary) the coolant temperature sensor located directly behind the coil packs. I think that covers just about everything you have to remove. Might have missed an inconsequential item here or there. Make sure everything is plugged back in (coil packs, coolant temp sensor, IAC valve, TPS sensor) and that all hoses are reattached correctly. When you refill the system, let it run for awhile with the radiator cap off and the heat blowing full blast to remove any air bubbles from the system. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.

Dry fill is near 12 quarts. Filter service is around 5 quarts

Run a fused/switched wire from ignition sensitve circuit in fuse block or dash directly to motor harness

The 2003 Dodge Durango is 16 ft. 1.5 in. (193.5 in.) long.

I use an OBD tool to do them.. Snap-On Modis Ultra.. takes me about two minutes, and I charge customers $50 (as opposed to the dealerships, which charge ~$120).

It is a violation of Federal law to do this without locating and fixing the leak if you need more than 15% of the units total charge. A reputable contractor will not risk the fines and penalties to do this. I am not trying to alarm you, only stating a fact that the days of the blow and go have been over since 1993 and you should be prepared for whomever you call to tell you he needs to find and fix the leak first so when he does this you`ll know he is not lying to you. This will add to the cost of the call.