Dodge Intrepid

Not via a manual, but the most amount that I've ever used (full tank to "empty light" on) was just under 14 gallons. 2002 Dodge Intrepid SE, 2.7L Engine.

what is the gap for sparks for this car"s engine intreprid 97 . 3.3 l

Did my 1997 3.5 Liter today.

8.5 foot-lbs or 105 inch-lbs. Recommend 5-7 as the aluminum heads strip very easily. Intake plenum bolts (4) require ~25 ft-lbs. Use a new gasket for this too. Torque riser tube grommet nuts at 5 ft-lbs, or snug-tight using 1/2" ratchet driver.

Also recommend Blue Loc-Tite on valve cover bolt threads to prevent them from backing out (as they do loosen up). After all the effort of pulling the top off of the engine for valve cover gaskets, recommend changing spark-plugs - do not bother re-gapping old ones), change the rubber grommets on riser tubes (they usually come with Fel-Pro gasket set, re-tape all electrical (like injector wires, etc.) with cloth tape (friction tape) and replacing all vacuum hoses under the intake plenum.

Of course, replace intake plenum and EGR riser tube gaskets with new as well. Clean both EGR riser tube connectors with small bottle brush (or aquarium brush) and/or new popsicle sticks as scrapers.

AutoZone has Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets for $25 per set and include rubber O-rings for riser tubes as well. Dealership will cost $80 per set. Use carb cleaner or brake cleaner on a soft cloth to wipe off both the head and the cover mating areas.

You will need to remove the Ignition coil and loosen mounting bracket with 15mm socket as well as loosen A/C mount bracket to remove passenger side valve cover.

Ignition wires go left to right, top to bottom: 2, 4, 6 then 5, 1, 3.

All of this work may yield "Check Engine Light" as new spark plugs and vacuum lines replaced can cause the system to "re-calibrate" - just clear them like mine.

Here is your opportunity to fix ALL vacuum lines on hoses - assuredly you will have cracked, hardened, and disconnected/loose vacuum lines since they are baked under the plenum.

Under the intake, between the heads.

With this symptom, if you tried to jump start the car it would start. The answer was a corroded Black/Cable going to the Negative terminal of the Battery.

pull out the fuse for the alarm and that will disable the alarm then just start it up Try unlocking the drivers door with the key, there should be a switch on the back of the key cylinder to turn alarm off.

The horns are under the passenger side of the front bumper. There is a Hi and Lo tone horn.

Well step by step. First check fans and see if they turn on when the engine temp gauge shows it just below halfway . If fans turn on then step 2 . Replace thermostat located at bottom radiator hose end that goes into motor . It's a real pain and alternator has to be removed along with the front end metal wedge to get a little room. If that is done then step 3. This is the doozy . Check to see if fluid is coming out of the front and/or back of the motor that is hard to see due to the mess of hoses and wires obstructing every angle to view the actual spot the leaks at. Ok the culprit most likely is the heater line and O ring underneath the lower manifold. You have to remove the upper plastic piece( manifold) that covers the top of whole engine . Then remove the lower manifold and flip it over to see the O ring which will be swollen and popping out / due to the extreme heat . You must replace the heater line AND O ring . You'll know if it's the issue because you'll find radiator fluid inside of it puddles up . Clean it all out ! Put line and O ring on and put it all back together. That is the usual issue with 3.5 HO. Some call the 2.7(junk) , 3.2 and 3.5 L HO s hand grenades but I beg to differ . 251 horsepower silky motors that require early maintenance oil changes with synthetic only and Mopar orange G05 radiator fluid only and it's a wonderful motor.

There are so many things it could be� so lets keep it simple (at first)� Are you sure there is gas in the car, if so then pull off the fuel line and make sure there is fuel coming out of it. If there is not then you could have a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump. Is there spark? Pull off one of your spark plug wires and stick you finger in it and have a friend turn over the ignition, if you dance around and scream in pain then you are getting spark. If not then you could have problems with the cap and rotor, the coil, the crank position sensor or the ignition module. These are the most simple things to check, but you question is very vague and your problem could be almost anything, from something stupid to broken timing belt to your motor having to little compression to start. Crankshaft Sensor Or Camshaft Sensor.

Check the trans for codes with a scanner and diagnose the code you get.

No. It has a unlit reference. The illuminated selector in on the center dash.

u have to undo your master cylinder and there are 4 bolts under the dashboard near the brake pedal just undo ur steering column to get to the bolts and unscrew them and remove the booster

.050 inches

You could have a bad water pump causing no coolant flow, inoperable radiator fans, a coolant leak,............

it could be your oil stem seal rubbers in your cylinder head, or it could be your oil rings/piston rings. your timing chain is about to go. These engines have a sludge build up that clogs the oil holes and eventually oil pressure drops in the combustion chamber which causes the timing chain tensioner to loose tension and thereby causing your timing chain to either go slack or snap. Either of these two malfunctions on the part of your main timing chain will cause your piston heads to kiss your valves. You don't want that to happen. have your engine flushed immediately and use synthetic oil from now on. The blue smoke is a tell tale sign that you need to do this flushing now or you will pay. Hope this helps. Blue smoke means you are Burning engine oil. Either the valve seals in the heads are bad or you have bad piston rings. Or you have a blown head gasket which the 2.7L is known for doing.anyway here are the smoke signals 1:Blue equals oil,2:Black is to much gas,and 3:White smoke, this is my favorite is anti freeze shut it down quickly or the engine will be toast...

vacuum leak

On the 2.7 and 3.2 engines, the thermostat is located at the end of the lower radiator hose, behind the power steering pump. It involves draining the coolant, removal of the lower hose and the the thermostat that is attached to it. On 3.2L engines, you have to remove the oil filter as well. There is a heater hose attached to the thermostat housing at the block that has to be removed also. Its a 2 inch long piece of rubber hose, and you just loosen the clamp on one side of it.

Once you have both hoses off, you can remove the thermostat housing, and the thermostat. It has 2 bolts with 10mm heads. Make sure you replace the gasket and clean the surface.

Its not common for the thermostat to go bad on these cars so check your water pump if you have a 2.7L engine, and inspect the rest of the system to make sure there are no problems elsewhere/.

Real Life Note -- If noticing dripping on ground safely lift car and inspect the underside. If coolant is coming out a small hole (weep hole) next to the thermostat housing, that means your water pump is leaking and it needs to be brought to a mechanic. (major job involving lots of work and removal of many many parts - not the job for weekend mechanic sorry) On the other hand if you see coolant dripping from the thermostat housing that's a $30.00 fix. Replace gasket and buy a new thermostat since you got it apart.

My 2001 Dodge Intrepid water pump went bad at 51000 miles and gasket started leaking at 70000 miles. Water pump cost me $500.00 - Gasket I could do myself.

If you want to make yourself feel better most likely your Intrepid is paid for by now and $500.00 for a fix is what a new car payment is on a decent car. If you have to put $500.00 in the car now to fix it.- what the heck its paid for.

It is on the left front of engine. Points at the left front cam shaft. UNplug the wire , unscrew bolt, and pull sensor out.

actuall, it may depend on the engine you have. on the 3.3 there are 4! one on each side, fairly easy to get to, in the collecter area of the exhast manifold. another on each side after the small catalytic convertor, and before the two pipes come together.these are up behind a frame type crosspiece, and very hard to get to.

Most mechanics refer a "Cracked head" as a Cracked cylinder head, This is usually repairable, but expensive and MUST be repaired. A Cracked Block means that the engine block is cracked and MUST be replaced. This is EXTREMELY expensive But ENTIRELY necessary. Any additional strain being cause by WOT or Heavy loads can destroy the engine. It is STRONGLY Advised you do not drive the vehicle in any of these conditions. This condition is rare on Ford Tauri with the "Vulcan" engine due to its Cast Iron Block, however if the vehicle has been abused severely it is not entirely uncommon. You should check fluids in the least annually and make sure the vehicle doesn't overheat. Cracked heads are also rare especially on the "Vulcan" power plant, However, Again, If severely abused not entirely uncommon. I've seen this occur on vehicles that were loaned out to careless teens that took the vehicle for spins and returned the vehicle is poor almost destroyed (engine-wise) condition due to their carelessness, It is not entirely uncommon to find a vehicle with cracked heads or blocks due to careless teenagers doing burnouts or doughnuts. If your block is cracked, You might as well buy a new engine. The cost with labor will so extensive you would be better to start anew.

5w30

Try the rad. fan or the rad. fan relay

With the hood up look at the outer end of the Headlight, You will see what looks like a snap together piece. wiggle the corner light and this will help you to see the clip that has to be moved in order for the light to slide out so you can change the bulb...I myself just put new headlights in my 96 dodge intrepid.

try replacing the thermostat

It is located inside the transmission, on top of the valve body. Remove trans oil pan, drop the valve body and the shift/control soleniod is on the body.