Dodge Ram

I have this exact truck in quad cab and I am only getting 14.21 mile per gallon. I figured i should be getting more but I am not.

Too much oil in the pan. Broken piston rings. Bad turbo bearing seals.

That's probably just that certain vehicle. Chances are, there's probably a short in the electric wiring somewhere. Very uncostly.

I have a '98 VW Beetle with a Engine Check Light fault 0341 or Cam Position sensor problem. I have had this problem for about 40,000 miles and at times have tried to fix it.

In responding to your "how to" request let me first say that the Beetle uses the cam position sensor to fine tune the gasoline mixture and spark to real-life driving conditions. In the event the cam position sensor stops working, the computer control system simply reverts to a built-in database of mixture and spark settings. These are just fine but may result in some increased gasoline consumption.

Now for the fix-it suggestions: a faulty cam position sensor is not very common by what I have read. But the cam position sensor fault can be a result of in improperly tensioned or timed, toothed cam belt. In addition, the cam position sensor fault seems to be commonly caused because of frayed or otherwise faulty wiring from the sensor to its' connection into the wiring harness.

To replace the sensor, you must remove the toothed cam belt (loosen the tensioner and pull the belt off of the cam sprocket) and the cam sprocket. The sensor is located behind the sprocket - it is easily replaced. Althought this may seem daunting, the hard part is relocating the cam sprocket correctly to the cam shaft. You see, there is no key or fixed marks to get it back on correctly. I do recommend that you get a repair book to try the yourself. The VW book is somewhat difficult to use and I have never looked at the Haynes manuals.

Change the fuel filter and if that doesn't do it have the cat convertor checked out. fuel filter in tank one unit run you about 250. bad cat can be determined by a rotten egg smell from exhaust

You cannot and should not disable the air bag.

i ended up ripping mine out because i couldn't figure it out either, i noticed that after u remove the bolds by the windshield u have to get more screws from up under it back towards the front of the dash,i know this ain't much help but just a heads up

start by draining gas tank then jack truck up don't forget to trig wheels, remove straps that hold gas tank to chassey, use penatration oil on bolts, disconnect filler hose and vent hose lower tank disconnect fuel lines and wiring, remove tank from under truck now you will have to remove sending unit from gas tank that is where you will find fuel pump unscrew old pump, install new pump. Replace everything same way you took apart.{p.s. becarfull not to damage locking ring that holds sending unit in place

The knock sensor is located on the side of the engine block near the bellhousing

Standard tank is 22 gal. although most are 35 gal. If you run it to just above empty and it takes more than 22 gals to fill (like 26 or so) then you have a 35 gal. tank like mine, which is same year and model. I have to run mine WAY below E on the gauge (like a 1/4 inch!) to run out of gas, could be my gauge but I don't think so. Hope that helps.

on my 05 2500 its right beside the head light on the drivers side mounted to the radiator support

With a scan tool.

the noise is from the inside cover over the wheel rotor its like a dust sheild it gets bent a little and when the wheel torques over when you turn and rubs on it. Simple fix take screw driver or pry tool bend plate away from rotor

Pull egr tube and check for blockage. clean as required and clear code. if code come back replace sensor

The little tube along the passenger side of the engine will be plugged with soot at the thermostat housing.

1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the FRONT

The engine cylinders are numbered :

firewall

8 - 7

6 - 5

4 - 3

2 - 1

front

I had a problem with my 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QUAD CAB where the recirculation flapper door was broken and no air would come out of the dash vents. At first, I thought the fan was going out since it was making noise so I pulled the fan from under the glove box and discovered the problem.

The actuator motor had apparently turned too much and broke the flapper door pivot shaft, and a small piece of plastic was flying around inside the fan. Once I removed the plastic, the noise went away and the fan was working fine. I then used a piece of stiff wire to hold the door closed as a temporary solution since I needed my AC as it was right in the heat of the summer.

I called the dealer several months later explaining the problem and they immediately knew which part needed to be replaced as they had seen the same thing many times before. They sold me a new duct assembly piece for about $60 that included a new actuator motor and flapper door. I didn't even bother to ask how much they would charge me to replace it. I questioned them a bit about what it took to replace and they made it sound pretty easy, except for the part about removing the dash. I just figured it couldn't be too tough, and I refuse to pay several hundred $ to have someone else do something I can do myself So, I brought the part home and started to research when I found a post regarding removal of the dash.

After reading the post, I nervously started to tackle the project of removing the dash to get at the duct assembly which sits right behind the glove box. About 2 hours into the job of removing the dash, I got to thinking that there must be a simpler way to fix this and I didn't really like the idea of tearing the whole truck apart to replace the entire assembly when I knew the problem was just the broken flapper door.

So, I looked closely at the new part and figured out how to remove the actuator and flapper door from the duct assembly. I knew that if this could be done from below the dash through the hole where the fan mounts, I could just replace the flapper and avoid removing the whole dash and duct assembly.

During this process, I discovered the factory defect. As I was testing the actuator to make sure I didn't install it in the wrong position and break the new flapper, I noticed that it appears to rotate a lot more than the 90 degrees it takes to actuate the flapper. The old duct assembly has a single plastic stop on the outside that limits the actuator movement and stops the motor while preventing stress on the flapper door when moved to the closed (non-recirculating) position

The new duct assembly has 2 limit stops, 90 degrees apart which stops the actuator motor at both open and closed positions and prevents any stress on the door. Therefore, because the original part only had a single stop on one side, the door became over-stressed in time and broke when the truck was about 3 years old.

Well, I decided that even though the 2nd stop doesn't exist on the old duct assembly, I could replace the flapper door and hope that it doesn't break again, at least not for a few more years. I figured I could always buy another $60 assembly and take on the dash removal/replacement project another time. I was careful to make sure the actuator motor was in the open (recirculating) position and then installed the door at that position. About 30 minutes later, I was back in business and replaced the parts I had removed attempting to remove the entire dash.

The whole process is pretty simple following these steps:

Remove glove box. Unplug and remove fan assembly under glove box by removing 3 torx head screws.

Reach up into the duct and extract the broken flapper door. Next, turn on the ignition and turn the heater control to recirculate position, making sure the actuator rotates clockwise until it stops.

Then, unplug the actuator connector and 2 Phillips head screws to remove actuator. Remove the white plastic adapter (which plugs into the door pivot shaft and rotates the flapper) from the duct assembly (this is the trickiest part since you have to use 2 hands and a screwdriver to remove the connector which snaps into place).

Slide the new flapper door into the duct and re-install the adapter making sure the door is in the open position and the stop tab is 90 degrees clockwise from the plastic limit stop on the duct.

Check flapper and adapter stop position by rotating the door counter-clockwise to the closed (non-recirc) position, making sure the stop doesn't prevent the door from closing all the way.

Finally, replace the actuator and 2 screws and plug in the electrical connector. Replace the glove box and fan and away you go.

This entire fix could probably be done in less than an hour, know that I know how easy it is. Next time it breaks, I may just do the same thing (buy the $60 assembly and steal the new flapper door instead of removing the entire dash to replace the actuator duct assembly, which is what the dealer would do and will likely charge hundreds for labor. Too bad they won't just sell the flapper door, which is really the only broken part.

Obviously, Dodge knows this is a factory defect since the new duct assembly has been improved, and it may even be covered by the factory warranty. But if it usually doesn't break for the first three years, most owners will have to pay the dealer to fix it. I seriously doubt they would ever recall this part, since it isn't a safety issue.

The Ram 5.7 does not have a distributor.

That year did not have 1. It uses a crank sensor and cam sensor

The computer has detected a malfunction in the electronic throttle system. You need to have it checked for codes.

The computer has detected a malfunction in the electronic throttle system. You need to have it checked for codes.

Remove the fuel tank, replace the fuel pump. It is part of the pump.

Sometime during the mid 1970's.

it depends but my dads was only 15000$

dodge called this family the "magnum" engines

the hookup is located under the steering wheel near the floor board. you dont have to remove tha panel to get to it, but it is easier i think, if you do. you practically have to lay on your back, wiggle up under there, and prop a flashlight up by your head so you can see what youre doing. just in case you needed to know, the fuse box is also located under there, and there is no layout map, but you can find one online easy.

My personal experience would be replace and properly gap spark plugs, and use a higher octane gas or these yellow bottles called "HEAT". Good luck!