Dodge Ram

The cause is most likely a worn out wheel bearing.

If all tires are at the pressure listed on the sticker on the drivers door jamb and the light is still on, then you may have a sensor issue and will need to have it serviced.

If all tires are at the pressure listed on the sticker on the drivers door jamb and the light is still on, then you may have a sensor issue and will need to have it serviced.

26 or 34 gallons

26 or 34 gallons

The problem is most likely right underneath the condenser in the engine compartment. Sometimes the AC drain cock gets plugged with dirt, mud or gease and then it backs up or leaks so slowly it leaks back behind the fire wall. If you trace from the drain spout to the inside, you can only see where the water is coming from. I cleaned mine out and put some good silicone around the fitting and have had no water since.

Bring to a shop that has an ABS scanner to either determine problem or clear codes

First you need to figure out what kid of gearing it is, and what's important is the number of sprockets at the rear wheel. I'm assuming that you're talking about a 6 speed rear for the 18-speed and a 7-speed rear for the 21-speed. If that is the case there is a risk that the 6-speed rear has a narrower hub than the 21-speed. This can make it awkward. But the biggest issue is probably the shifters. a shifter intended for 7 rear sprockets will not shift cleanly over 6 sprockets.

About 1000 lbs.

Dodge doesn't use fuel pressure sensors on any of it's engines.

Depends on year and engine, could be 5w20, 5w30, 10w30

I seem to recall that Dodge recommends 89 Octane for that engine. I wouldn't go any lower than that due to the likelihood of pinging problems.

The transfer case control module has detected a fault and set a code. Have it checked for codes.

An EGR valve sensor should be available at any dealership parts department, and almost any auto parts supply store.

check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay. check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay. check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay. check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay. check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay.

Check your starter it may be grounded when hot.

In order to change the lifters you must remove the Valve cover. I believe it is held down with 10mm bolts. After you remove the Valve Cover you till see the lifters. There are 16 of them. 8 close to you the 8 closer to the wind shield. I highly recommend you use a pair of clamps to hold your timing belt to the wheel because you can potentially knock your timing out of whack. After you have removed the valve cover gasket and have secured your timing belt you will need a small crowbar or some type of tool for leverage and a 10mm or 12mm socket to remove the braces over the rocker arms, rocker arms are what set on top of the lifters. There will be 2 bolts holding each brace on. Start from the left and work to the right ( if facing the engine ). After you remove the brace use your pry tool and pull the rocker arm off of the lifters. After you have the lifters will pull right up. Drop your new one in and replace the rocker arm and the brace. Go down the line doing so. Be careful as you get close to the timing belt wheel. For much more details and any information regarding the 1st & 2nd gen eclipse visit www.vfaq.com they have a complete how to on the lifters. Good luck

170

170

GAS wise. its great, you can get up to 20 mpg on the highway.

15 in the city.

335 foot pounds.

340 HP @ 5000 RPM Torque 390 lb/ft @ 4000 RPM

18436572

1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2

The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the FRONT / PASSENGER SIDE

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

8 - 7

6 - 5

4 - 3

2 - 1

front

THE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE IN YOU TRUCK IS ENGAGED/DISENGAGED BY VACUUM LINES,START ON THE FRONT AXLE.THERE IS A BOX THAT HAS A LEVER INSDE THAT LOCKS THE FRONT END IN AND OUT.YOU WILL SEE THE VACUUM LINES COMING OUT OF IT,JUST TRACE THESE LINES BACK TO THE TOP OF THE TRANNY,CHECKING THAT ALL SPLICES AND CONNECTIONS ARE GOOD AND THE LINE HAS NO HOLES.I HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH MY DODGE AND FOUND A HOLE RUBBED IN ONE VACUUM LINE WHERE IT GOES ACROSS THE CROSS MEMBER UNDER TRANNY. YOU CAN CHECK FOUR WHEEL DRIVE BY TAKING OFF VACUUM LINE ON FRONT END AND BLOW AIR IN THE LINE COMING OUT OF THAT BOX WITH AN AIR HOSE(20-30 PSI) IF FOUR WHEEL DRIVE ENGAGES THEN YOU HAVE A LEAK OR SOMETHING IN YOUR VACUUM LINES. GOOD LUCK, ROGER PATTON

Both the 318 and the 360 (also known as 5.2 and 5.9) are evolved frome the LA

block. If your 360 is older than 1990 then you've got a lot of modifying to do.

If it is a newer one (92 to 2001) all the parts from the 318 should bolt on with

out much problem. You will have to change out your computer though to get

any more performance out of the bigger engine.

The 318, 340, and 360 were all LA blocks (basically Mopars version of the SBC)

same block, different displacements. In 91 they changed from the LA block to the

Magnum block. It's the same block but different heads,intake, and rocker arm

length. There are also some changes to the timing chain.

If you're planning on using a carberator instead of fuel injection you will need

a fuel regulator to bring the pump pressure down from 95 psi to 4-7 psi. Then your

computer doesn't get any input from the fuel injector so it shuts down the ignition.

To bypass this you basically have to replace the ignition from the key to the spark

plugs. (ignition module, distributer, spark plug wires....) Then just disassemble your

dash and put a piece of electrical tape over your engine light.

There isn't a transmission fluid reservoir on an 86 S10 pickup. The transmission fluid is held in the transmission itself.