Dodge Ram

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Under the dash on the driver side.

Under the dash on the driver side.

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I had a similar problem and it was a faulty horn pad on the steering wheel. In my case, the horn would honk when I didn't press the pad (yeah, other drivers really liked that -and in the middle of the night, it was a nice wakeup from our closely attached garage). Other times, when Idid want to honk, the horn would either not work or it would "stick" and continue to honk. From your question, I gather that you press the pad to honk and then let off, but the horn continues to sound. If this is the case, my guess is a faulty horn pad that continues to make an electrical connection even after you take pressure off the pad. Since the horn pad may also contain vital airbag components, I suggest that you take it to reputable repair shop for a look.

The factory location for the lift pump is on the driver side of the block, below the fuel filter. The factory repair kit moves it to the fuel tank.

"if it is the same as a firebird it is inside the left front fender. i had to remove the inside fender linear to get access to it on the firebird."

it is not on the left side, it is on the right side which is the passenger side of the vehicle. You have to remove the tire, then the fender well and then look way back up towards the fender wall next to the fender and you will see it. there are approx. 3 or 4 screws holding it in. if you raise your hood it will give you more light and you can see it better. I just replaced mine yesterday on my 1979 Camaro, I did the work myself so that is how I know where it is.

It is inside the HVAC housing, behind the dash.

To turn off the seatbelt chime in 2006-2008 Dodge Rams and some other newer Dodge vehicles, follow this procedure: Get in the vehicle, close the door, put on your seatbelt. Start the engine, wait for the seatbelt light to turn off. Within 30 seconds of the light turning off, unbuckle and re-buckle the seatbelt 4 times, making sure the seatbelt light responds (turns on and off) each time you unbuckle and re-buckle the belt. Ending with the seatbelt BUCKLED, turn off your engine. If done correctly, you will immediately hear one chime to verify the programming. To re-enable the chime, simply repeat this procedure. NOTE: Although the seatbelt chime will not chime constantly if your belt is not buckled while driving, it WILL still chime when you first start your engine, and the seatbelt light will stay on to remind you. The light can be deactivated also, but it is a much more complicated (and I feel unnecessary) procedure. WARNING!!!: DO NOT deactivate the seatbelt chime by cutting or splicing the wires to the seatbelt buckle under the seat. THIS WILL DISABLE YOUR AIRBAGS even if your belt is buckled!!! AIRBAGS are DEADLY if your belt is not buckled, so there is a sensor in the buckle which disables the airbags when the belt is not buckled. If you cut or splice these wires, you also disable that sensor. Turning off the chime using the programming option keeps your airbags working properly. Hope this helps, ENJOY YOUR DODGE!!! -Mike Vidal, Forked River, NJ

from underneath the car you can get right to them

You would have to use a TT ecu and harness, a TT driveshaft, swap the TT diff flange onto the NA diff, and somehow figure out how to make the TT computer run the NA engine with the incorrect sensors and a distributor. Probably better to do a full swap.

You could also swap the NA valve body in the TT trans, use the cable line pressure control, the NA solenoids and harness's and run it like that.

Of course you can look for cracks, disconnected, or broken lines. Another good way it to use starter fluid. Start the engine and spray a slight amount of starter fluid on the vacuum hose connections. If there is a leak the engine will increase in revolutions. You can also use WD40 for this test, with similar results. If your car is over 10 years old, I suggest you replace all under-hood vacuum lines. Replace them one at a time as to not get confused. A very cheap repair.

Requires cutting, exhaust pipe bending (if you need to replace any of the pipes), welding, and anchoring. It isn't something most people would be able to read about and do. If you don't already know how, I'd suggest either having a mechanic that already knows how either do it himself, or show you how in person.

If you look on the driver side back by the break pedle you will see the fuse panel

220 HP @ 4,400 rpm; 300 ft lb @ 3,200 rpm

a major part of an automatic transmission...

A torque converter is what couples the engine to the transmission. It acts a little bit like a clutch and allow the engine to drive the transmission. At slow engine speeds, like at idle, it slips so the engine will not stall while the transmission is in gear. As engine speed (RPM) increases it allows the engine to drive the transmission.

This is just the basic idea of what a torque converter does.

R134A is what came from the factory. If your intentions are to add any then may I suggest that you do NOT use any with a stop leak. That can totally ruin a shops $4000 to $6000 piece of equipment.

The difference is the overall size of the engine. A 318 is a 5.2 liter engine. A 360 is a 5.9 liter engine.

An engine intake manifold plenum pan gasket oil leak may occur on some V-6 and V-8 style engines. The oil leak is internal to the engine so no external oil leakage will be present. Two symptoms of this oil leak condition may be present. The vehicle operator may experience an engine spark knock during acceleration and/or an increase in the amount of engine oil consumed by the engine. Inspect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Shake the PCV valve to verify that the pintle inside of the PCV valve is free. Replace the PVC if the pintle is not free. If the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is leaking, an additional vacuum source will be created inside of the engine at the location of the pan gasket leakage.- Engine combustion blow-by gases, oil vapor, and air from the crankcase filter/breather may be drawn past the leaking pan gasket and into the intake manifold. In most cases when this condition occurs, an engine at idle will create the highest vacuum and lowest amount of engine blow-by. 1. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature. 2. Stop the engine. 3. Disconnect the breather hose from the air cleaner. 4. Attach a vacuum I pressure gauge to the end of the breather hose (Figure 1). 1 - VACUUM / PRESSURE GAUGE 2 - BREATHER HOSE 3 - VALVE COVER BREATHER HOSE PORT 5. Disconnect the PCV valve hose from the intake manifold. 6. Seal off the intake manifold PCV valve hose port opening. 7. Seal off the open end of the PCV valve hose (Figure 2). NOTE: DURING THIS DIAGNOSIS, IT WOULD BE NORMAL FOR THE ENGINE TO DEVELOP PRESSURE WITHIN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. THIS IS DUE TO -THE NORMAL PROCESS OF. EXHAUST BLOW-BY- GASES- LEAKING PAST THE ENGINE PISTON RINGS AND ACCUMULATING IN THE ENGINE CRANKCASE. DO NOT ALLOW MORE THAN 3 PSI (20.7 kPa) OF PRESSURE TO BUILD WITHIN THE ENGINE WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE. 8. Start the warmed engine and observe the vacuum gauge. 9. Allow the engine to idle for approximately 30 seconds. Do not allow more than 3psi (20.7 kPa) of pressure to develop in the engine crankcase. 10. If the attached vacuum I pressure gauge does not indicate that a vacuum is present in the engine crankcase, then the intake manifold plenum pan gasket is good and no further internal engine vacuum leak diagnosis is required. 11. If an internal vacuum leak is present then perform the Repair Procedure. Parts Required*: For the 5.2L / 5.9L: 1 04897383AC Package, Intake Manifold Flange Gasket and Bolts 1 05017208AA Gasket, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan 15 06034583 Bolt, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan 1 53030541 Gasket, Throttle Body' 2(AR) 04318001 Conditioner, Combustion Chamber For the 3.9L: 1 04897382AC Package, Intake Manifold Flange Gasket and Bolts 1 05017207AA Gasket, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan 14 06034583 Bolt, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan 1 53030541 Gasket, Throttle Body 2(AR) 04318001 Conditioner, Combustion Chamber *NOTE: the part numbers are continually being revised. Use the most recent part numbers from the dealership computer if you perform this repair yourself. Repair Procedure: 1. Refer to the appropriate year Service Manual, Section 9: ENGINE for removal and installation instructions. NOTE: CLEAN ALL OIL RESIDUE FROM THE INTERIOR SURFACES OF THE PLENUM PAN AND THE INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM CHAMBER. NOTE: THE PROPER BOLT TORQUE AND TIGHTENING SEQUENCE IS CRITICAL AND MUST BE FOLLOWED WHEN TIGHTENING BOTH THE PLENUM PAN BOLTS AND THE INTAKE MANIFOLD FLANGE BOLTS. 3.9L Bolt Tightening Sequence and Torque Procedure: 3.9L Plenum Pan Bolt Torque Procedure STEP WHICH BOLT TORQUE 1 All Bolts 5.4 Nm (48 in. lbs.) 2 All Bolts 9.5 Nm (84 in. lbs.) 3 Check All Bolts 9.5 NM (84 in. lbs.) 3.9L Intake Manifold Flange Bolt Torque Procedure STEP WHICH BOLT TORQUE 1 1 and 2 1.4 NM (12 in. lbs.) 2 1 and 2 2.7 NM (24 in. lbs.) 3 1 and 2 4.1 NM (36 in. lbs.) 4 1 and 2 5.4 NM (48 in. lbs.) 5 1 and 2 6.7 NM (60 in. lbs.) 6 1 and 2 8.1 NM (72 in. lbs.) 7 3 through 12 8.1 NM (72 in. lbs.) 8 Check All Bolts 8.1 NM (72 in. lbs.) 9 All Bolts 16.3 NM (12 ft. lbs.) 10 Check All Bolts 16.3 NM (12 ft. lbs.) 5.2L/5.9L Bolt Tightening Sequence and Torque Procedure: 5.2L / 5.9L Plenum Pan Bolt Torque Procedure STEP WHICH BOLT TORQUE 1 All Bolts 5.4 NM (48 in. lbs.) 2 All Bolts 9.5 NM (84 in. lbs.) 3 Check All Bolts 9.5 NM (84 in. lbs.) 5.2L / 5.9L Intake Manifold Flange Bolt Torque Procedure STEP WHICH BOLT TORQUE 1 1 and 4* 1.4 NM (12 in. lbs.) 2 1 and 4* 2.7 NM (24 in. lbs.) 3 1 and 4* 4.1 NM (36 in. lbs.) 4 1 and 4* 5.4 NM (48 in. lbs.) 5 1 and 4* 6.7 NM (60 in. lbs.) 6 1 and 4* 8.1 NM (72 in. lbs.) 7 5 through 12 8.1 NM (72 in. lbs.) 8 Check All Bolts 8.1 NM (72 in. lbs.) 9 All Bolts 16.3 NM (12 ft. lbs.) 10 Check All Bolts 16.3 NM (12 ft. lbs.) * The bulletin clearly says to tighten bolts 1 and 4, but this is probably a typo because the service manual says to tighten bolts 1 through 4, and nowhere in the TSB does it say to tighten bolts 2 and 3, which would only be tightened to 12 ft. lbs when you reach step 9. 2. With the engine reassembled, inspect the coil and spark plug wires for proper routing. Refer to TSB 09-48-98 for additional assistance. 3. Start the engine and allow it to warm to normal engine operating temperature. 4. Decarbon the combustion chamber using Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner (p/n 04318001) per the instructions. NOTE: ALLOW THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER TO SOAK INSIDE OF THE ENGINE FOR 2 TO 2.5 HOURS. NOTE: A SECOND APPLICATION OF THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER CONDITIONER MAY BE REQUIRED IF THERE WAS A LARGE QUANTITY OF OIL LEAKAGE PAST THE INTAKE PLENUM PAN GASKET. 5. Verify proper engine oil level. Notes: Policy: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. Time Allowance: Labor Operation No: 09-50-15-91 .................................. 3.0 Hrs. Optional Equipment: 09-50-15-60 Air Conditioning Equipped (AN/BR-BE/DN/ZJ) ............ 0.2 Hrs. 09-50-15-60 Air Conditioning Equipped (AB) .................................... 0.8 Hrs. 09-50-15-62 Air Injection Pump Equipped (SR/BE) ........................... 0.2 Hrs. 09-50-15-65 Power Steering Pump Equipped (if 5.2L and AN/BR-BE/DN/ZJ) .. 0.2 Hrs. or It is burning the oil and the emissions systems are still able to cope with the extra load. The oil is being burned both in the cylinders and in the catalytic converter. Be aware that the emission controls will not be able to do that much longer and you will probably start to get fouled plugs, oxygen sensors and catalytic converter. When that happens, you get to rebuild the engine.

It is inside the distributor.

Heater Core remove/replace in dodge 1500 truck 1995-01. I can pull it in 3.5 hours. putting it back takes about 2 hours, plus charging the AC, about one more hour more. Having a friend around really helps. Disconnect the battery before attempting any work to avoid a short.

1)Remove first screw on plastic door sill on both sides. (the things on top of rug where door closes)Remove kick panels.

2)Remove panel under steering wheel.

3)Remove two nuts holding up steering wheel.

4)Remove screws where windshield meets dash board.

5)Remove 2 bolts left and right under dash but against sides of car (under kick panels).

5a) There is a square box in the center of the dash by the floor. Take it off and take those nuts off. And disconnect the wire harness and the get the panel loose and down out of the way.

6)Dashboard is now loose and can be pulled towards the seats.

7)On right side of dash hook a wire way up to screw that holds moulding clips, or pull the dash towards the seat and put a jackstand under the passenger side.

8)The whole heater box is now visible.

9) You've got to remove vacuum lines, controls, and electric plugs from heater box.

10) Now the secret: there are 2 screws holding it to fire wall on inside (one has a ground wire attached). The other is in the upper right hand corner facing up. The easiest way to get to the bolts holding the ground wire is to take out the glove compartment and then take out the airbag.

11) there are 4 nuts holding it from engine side of firewall(one is behind the electric panel on the passanger side). Remove all four of these.

12) Remove heater hose clamps with a hose clamp plier. This will take time, these clips are hard to get off.

13) Drain the AC freon.

14)the AC lines require a special tool that costs $9-12 at parts store. the kit has 6 plastic widgets. use the one that fits. play with an AC fitting near the radiator for practice first.

15) you should be able to pull the heater box out now.

16) Remember the dashboard is just pulled up high enough on the right to get at the heater box.

17) It is a good idea to change the A/C evaporator core while doing this job. They are both in the same box.

Yes, some of the 1996 Dodge 1500s did come with keyless entry.

It was not standard equipment.

The thermostat is located on the front, passenger's side of the engine. Follow the upper rubber coolant hose from the top of the radiator on the driver's side. The rubber hose connects to a steel "cap" in between the alternator and the valve cover. There are three bolts to remove from the "cap". Remove the "cap" and the thermostat is located under it. Make sure to drain quite a bit of coolant from the radiator or the coolant will leak all over when you pull the "cap" off. The radiator drain is located on the underside of the radiator on the driver's side and looks like a plastic screw with a drain hole right next to it.

HERES AN INSTALL VIDEO FROM www.dieselbombers.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOiGRffSc2s

four

The heater hoses are 5/8 inch diameter.