Electric Windows

Remove the door panel. Remove the switch retainer. Remove the wiring harness. Reverse the process to install the new switch.

are u talking about the one that's not in the rear door but next to it, if so on the inside of the car undo the seat belt from the panel that surrounds the window remove the long thing panel from the top of the back window then revove the surround from the side window u want to replace, once u do this u will see that there is about 6 or 8 10mm nuts go around them and undo these then simply push the old one out, with the new one clean off all the old sikaflex and put a small bead around the window in the same place and push back in then put everything back in reverse....

hope that helps

You must have a short in the wiring somewhere breaking the curcuit. sounds like the power wire is grounding out- Bad PW Motor, Replace, See TSB at local Ford Dealer for more info.

All power to your power windows passes thru the drivers door thru the master switch near your left hand. The drivers door is opened and closed more than the others so check these wires carefully for pinching in the door. Also check the switch itself; it may have a bad connection or short.My guess is that the switch is bad. If bad I would obtain a good used one at a salvage yard for about $20.00.........1930fcoupe

The most common problem with Chrysler power windows is either a damaged cable type operating mechanism...called a regulator...or a binding motor. Rarely matters, as the OEM part is usually an assembly that includes both components. If more than one window quit at the same time, it may be in the switch circuit, which would require more specific, technical testing.

Bad circuit breaker. That is what you hear clicking. Replace it, and the windows should work again. If not, there is going to be a short somewhere in the harness.

Another thing to check, I'm not sure how common it is, but I I was hearing a clicking and my windows would suddenly stop working, I spent a fortune on diagnostics and parts, and in the end it turned out to be that where the wires attach to the door, (when your in the car and the door is open you can see them if you look right at the hinge of it) That clip was coming loose on me and water was seeping in, once it dried they would roll back up. Solution periodically check that grommet to make sure its snug

It is a good job and there are spring loaded llinkages etc. Get a manual on your car from the local parts store.

your can try to tape the window up, you can also try to shim the window by placing a piece of cardboard between the window and the door, or you can disassemble the inside of the door and block the window up with a piece of wood.

It would be the same as if it were connected to a utility service. To find the wattage of a device multiply the voltage by the amperage. W = A x V.

This is extremely hard for the average person. I would suggest taking it to the nearest trim shop. GoodluckJoe

Sounds like your window drive motor is bad. The power draw is evident, causing the dimming.

obviously you need a bigger fuse and a bigger relay

It's fuse number 47 in the '01 Montana. It is 47 on most of the GM minivans of that era. See www.mychevy-venture.com/fuses.html for a schematic of the fuse box. You need to open the passenger side door to get at the fuses.

find out if u have power to the switch. It seems to me that if the power locks work then there should be power at the switch . try opening the driverside door and look at the rubber accordian looking object.inside of it is the wires that power all the window and lock switches. turn the ignition on and lightly grab the accordian and wiggle it around alittle bit while pushing the up driverside window button... did it do anything? If no you need to open up the accordian and check for completely broken power wires.. Because after a while of opening and closing the door it will crack the wires to what extent only depends on the amount of use of the door. And the drives door is the main door for all the power option controled but the driver...

good luck, Im working on one right now with no replacement parts available!

waehomeboy

this is what I know about my Plymounth (1990 Sundance): 1. You must remove the side panel by removing the armrest (3 Screws). 2. remove the black placing by pushing to the left and lifting, 3. remove the side by inserting a screw driver under it and and podping the clips (careful you need the clips when you replace the side panel. 4. remove the speaker by unplugging the clip, 5. look at the left side of the window there should be two lack plastic thing that I will call wings. If these are broken the window will not stay in the track and you need a new window. 6. The windows track appears to be in the door frame. You will need another person to assist you, 7. If the wings are missing or the window is broken go to a junk yard where you can take out he window and do so. This is a great learning experince you will use to replace the window in your car. 8. There is a big nut assembly holding the window and this and the track appear to be the only things holding the window in place. (BE VERY CAREFUL!!!) you can break the glass by loosening it in the wrong direction or screwing it in too tight. 9. Now one person sit in the drivers seat facing the window with the door open. 10. the person in the car seat will slowing rise the window lift it in place by putting their hand in the door and also clowily cranking the up. perso numbe two will insert a flat blade screw driver in the track and gently by turning the screw driver pop the wings into the track. 11. replace the speaker, screw, door panel and arm. Done.

see if the library has a book you can look at for free...if it's your first, you'll want to read a manual.. dave

I DON'T KNOW WHY DO YOU THINK I'M ASKING

Driver side kick panel 7.5a gauge fuse is the supply fuse for the power windows.

Relay is relay E on the adjacent relay panel 2nd from the bottom (Bugger to get at have to remove plastic drivers side door sill kick plate and drivers side under dash plastic panel then pull carpet with plastic cover attached back, if better access required may have to undoe accelerator pivot nuts X2).

What is the atmosphere/environment of this occupation? (Outdoors, indoors, working with people, working alone, etc.)

It depends on what part of the country that you live in. Call a couple of local garages and trim shops for estimates

The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn�t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4�s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).

To answer this question the voltage and amperage of the unit must be stated. Once this is given the generator size can be calculated.

A pillar garnish cooperates with a center pillar to define there between a space which serves as a demister duct for conveying hot, dry air directed from a side demister nozzle to a rear side window.-...Yasar Arafath

Depends on the year, older ones were in the engine bay fuse box, never ones I've mainly seen in the interior fuse box under the dash.

It is inside the door, bolts to the regulator(the linkage that moves the glass up and down).

Hi, I'm not answering this question because I also need to know the answer. I have the exact same problem on my 03 Tacoma. The window and door lock controls stopped working. I was in zero degree weather and the windows were frozen shut. I tried to roll one down and it didn't budge, and I'm guessing a fuse blew. But when I looked at both fuse boxes, nothing seems to have blown and none of them were marked for these controls. Please let me know if you find out the answer... Thanks, Tom N.