Electric Windows

pls see... http://www.faqfarm.com/Q/What_is_wrong_when_the_front_passenger_power_window_motor_sounds_like_it%27s_going_to_work_but_then_stops_and_the_window_will_not_move_on_a_1999_Jeep_Grand_Cherokee

: I like to thank you for that answer, I was just about to ask that same question altough my 454 is out and I can see the velves. I'm trying to set the valves but wasn't sure if I was on the right TDC. After I adjust the number one exhust velve I noticed that the valve slightly opens up. And am I right shouldn't they both be closed and this point? The question may seem simple but it isn't really. I assume you are asking this question because all spark plug wires have been removed and now you don't know where to begin. If you can find the timing mark on the dampner pully, slowly turn the engine over using a socket wrench or any other manual means until you get the engine block timing mark to line up with the mark on the pully. That will be either TDC #1 or the crank may be 360 degrees out and #1 may be between the exhaust and intake cycle. If you are fortunate enough that #1 rockers are above the oil fill cap you can watch to see if either the exhaust or intake valve opens when you turn the crankshaft slightly either direction (at least 15 to 20 degrees to be safe). If neither valve opens you are probably at #1. If you can't see the rockers, pull #1 spark plug and put a finger over the hole. Have an assistant slowly turn the engine and feel for the compression to increase when the crankshaft approaches the timing mark. If you don't feel the compression go around again. Once you are certain that you feel the compression rock the crankshaft back and forward a couple times near TDC and you should feel the spark plug hole suck just a little, just to make certain you are truly there. Whichever method you use, once you have located the position for #1 put the pully mark at TDC then look to where the rotor is pointing on the distributor. That is #1 on the distributor. This was copied from a previous post, I cannot take credit for this answer but posted it for your help

Run a diagnostic test, if you have a bad oxygen sensor the computer will display the code that indicates the oxygen sensor is bad. Usually irregular idle speed is caused by a vacuum leak or sometimes the AC circuit speeds the engine a little when the AC clutch is engaged. The AC compressor is used by the defroster inmost vehicles to dry the air, so just because it's winter don't think your AC isn't comming on. Simple answer, no, it's probably not the oxygen sensor. Many people have no idea what they are talking about. It could be the EGR valve, but that would typically be controlled by something else that might be causing the irregular idle speed. If it idles super slow sometimes, check for a faulty EGR valve, but most often a high idle speed is caused by vacuum leaks. TRY REPLACING THE THROTTLE POSION SENSOR ITS LOCATED RIGHT ON THE SIDE OF THE THROTTLE BODY WERE THE ACCLARATER CABLE HOOKS UP

There could be several causes for this type of problem: 1) The power window up portion of the switch is not functioning or wiring is loose at the switch and or motor. 2) The motor is failing and is not providing enough force to raise the window or is off-track and inding. To check this condition lower the window , then grasp the window and when the up button is pressed assist it(leave enough space to ensure you do not pinch you hand.in the window frame) if the window motor operates and the window begins to rise the window could be binding or the motor replaced. in either case the door panel will need to be removed the electrical switch and motor are tested and the mechanical operator and track inspected for proper operation.

It's probably the lock out switch. That seems to be a common problem in jeeps. YOu can try to replace the lockout or bypass it.

Also check for broken splice in the harness inside the flexboot from chassis to door. This is common failure in 90's Jeeps, causing problems with mirror/windows/locks. Try opening and closing the doors a few times to see if you can duplicate the problem with the vehicle stopped.

There isn't an electrical connection between transmission and windows/locks, other than ignition switch being on or off.

Yes, there is a manual to fix a Honda Accord window being off track. A person can obtain this maintenance manual, it is will give direction on how to fix the windows.

Hey Steve= the most common problem is for a roller in the linkage to break. It is a big job and someone who knowa how, to repair it. Call your local auto trim shop. GoodluckJoe

I had a rear window that did this. I removed the window motor. Now it's a manual window; I have to use my hands to pull it down and lift it up. I don't have to worry about locking my keys in my car although it will set off the car alarm if you roll it down with the car locked; you have to put your key in the ignition to stop the alarm. Of well.

It can be your battery, when it doesn't have enough power the computer will not allow you to use power stuff.

It can be also one of the relays which are responsible for stuff like power locks, power windows and so on.

12 inches

I think they are on separate fuses but common ground. Get a wiring diagram from MOTORLIT.COM.

The fourth fuse in the interior fuse panel controls the power windows and locks on 2000-2001 Grand Prix. 25 amp silver fuse.

im assuming this is power windows. your motor could be shot, yes even if it goes down the motor can be bad. or your regulator is screwd up, but it sounds more like a motor problem to me. I have the same problem in a 2000 Corolla, and it is a bad motor. Mine is the rear window on the driver's side.

== == The air temp outside is cooler than the air inside the car, so moisture forms on the inside of the glass surface. If this happens while you are driving, you may be adding to the problem by your breathing. Your breath contains a lot of moisture and it lands on the inside of the car windows. Solution............ run the defroster fan on hot and direct the warm air onto the windshield, and the side windows, PLUS open the windows at least an inch to let the dampness out of the car.

DO YOU HEAR ANY KIND OF NOISE WHEN HITTING THE SWITCH? HAVE YOU TRIED ANY TYPE OF LUBE? I WOULD ALSO SEE IF THERE IS POWER GOING TO THE ANTENNA WITH A LIGHT TESTER. START WITH THE SIMPLE THINGS FIRST. CHECK YOUR FUSE.

Once you have removed the switch from the wiring that goes into the door, orient the wiring harness horizontally so that the black wiring (ground) is in the upper left. Starting at the lower left, count to the right from 1-7. Start again at the top with 8 being the black wire through to 14. Front Drivers window ( left front ) . To open, jump 8 & 9, and 11 & 14. To close, jump 8 & 14, and 11 & 9. Front Passengers window ( right front ) . To open, jump 8 & 13, and 11 & 12. To close, jump 8 & 12, and 11 & 13. Rear Drivers window ( left rear ) . To open, jump 8 & 3, and 11 & 1. To close, jump 8 & 1, and 11 & 3. Rear passenger window ( right rear ) . To open, jump 8 & 7, and 11 & 6. To close, jump 8 & 6, and 11 & 7. Door Locks To unlock, jump 8 & 2. To lock, jump 8 & 10 8 = Ground (negative - black) 11 = Positive (orange with black stripe) You can test around the window switch by using jumper wires from the ground (8) to one of the window connectors and jumping the positive (11) to the other window connector. Keep separate jumper wires in 8 and 11 throughout your testing. I find that a small paper clip acts as a nice jumper.

The power window fuse for a Kia Sportage is located in the main fuse panel under the steering column. It is used to prevent the motor from drawing too much power or being damaged by a surge.

The simple answer is yes.

The long answer requires info from you.

There are two power requirements, running and starting. AC Compressors require an enormous boost of power to get them started, sometimes 5-7 times the running power. To find your running watts, we need to know the SEER rating, usually listed on the air handler. Newer units must be at least 11 SEER. 1 ton = 12,000 btus, so you have 30,000 btus. Divide this by the seer, and that's your running wattage. Even if your seer is only 10, that's only 3000 watts. Seems like not much.

Now look at the outside unit to find the LRA. This is the locked rotor amp draw, which is a good indicator of the required amperage to start the unit. For example, my unit runs on 16 amps, and has an 88 amp start requirement. Now you can see how huge the start amps are. So a tiny 2.8 ton ac unit will need an 18,000 watt generator to get going!

What you will need to do is install a "hard start" device on the outside unit. Its basically a large capacitor used to get the compressor going without the need for huge amps. Some claim they can cut the start amps in half. They cost $20-50, have 2 wires and are easy to install, can be installed and left in all the time, prolongs the life of the compressor and also prevents your lights from dimming when the ac kicks on. Make sure to get a properly sized one, as too big will cause big problems.

The only way to know for sure is to install the hard start kit and then have someone actually measure the amp draw. Good luck.

its jammed you have to take off the whole door panel and window motor to get it back up then it will work fine again.

I just went through this for about a month. I installed aftermarket speakers in the front doors, and I just found that the wiring harness for all of the door controls runs right behind one of the speaker holes. The screw went right through the harness exposing three wires. In my case, this was only an issue on the drivers door.

Not sure about yours but I I know that sometimes we leave our window down and rain may get into the controls on the inside of the door and cause them to corrode and not make good connection under them.Good luck.

Since the Freestar is just a Windstar with a different name, try the "Related Question" below for getting started with replacing the window motor.

I'm having the same problem so took door panel off and saw that it runs on a cable system that is connected to a plastic spool which is turned by motor. I take the truck several times a year to Lake Havasu AZ which can get upwards of 120 deg in summer. My theory is temps inside the door heat the metal cable to temps much hotter and weaken the plastic so later when driving cable lets go of plastic spool and down comes window. Now has happened 3 times.

There is no resetting it. Either your circuit won't close (could be due to a broken switch, broken or shorted wiring, a bad relay, etc.) or the window motor is toast.