Electric Windows

A certain amount of "dimming" is normal when you engage a relatively large power drain, however, if the lights dim too much when the engine is running, you should have the charging system tested to make certain that the alternator is functioning properly.

I have a 1993 Camry and I had to remove the door panel and replace the window regulator motor and assembly. It is on about 5 screws to remove the assembly.. ~ 30 minutes work after the door panel is removed.

If you don't know how to remove the inside door panel, this link is very helpful:

http://autorepair.about.com/od/otherodddiyjobs/l/aa092504a.htm.

In addition to the advice at the above site, I found another trick to removing the trim around the inside door handle. The above article refers to putting a screwdriver UNDER the door handle and pushing down ... to release a "secret latch". That's the first step. The second step (which is not in the article) is to insert the scredriver ABOVE the door handle ... vertically above the spot in the above article. Then gently press the screwdriver handle down. With the screwdriver acting as a lever, the tip of the screwdriver will push UP on the top part of the trim. That will lift the trim up off a small pin on the handle mechanism. With both the bottom and top of the trim piece now "unlatched", slide the trim toward the back of the car, while you open the inside door handle (as mentioned in the article). The trim will come right off. Be sure to slide the trim toward the back of the car, as you move the trim away from the door panel. (There is a "hooked" piece of plastic on the back of that trim that prevents you from just pulling it out perpendicular to the door panel.) 'Hope these fine points help.

PS. My 1996 Camry had 2 screws on the bottom of the door that also were holding the interior door panel in place. That wasn�t in the article.

For a 92 rear door, the following is what I found/did:To remove the inside door panel, you need to look for 4 buttons on side edges - push in on the center and use a small screwdriver to pull out the plug. When replacing, pull the center out, insert the outer part and then push the inner part back. you need to remove 2 screws that are in the door pull part - one has a small cover you need to remove. Use a screwdriver at the top and bottom of the window switch to pry it out and disconnect the power cord from the switch. Remove the trim around the door handle, by inserting a screwdriver at the pivot point above the handle to pop the trim off the handle,and then repeat below the pivot point as noted above. There are 3 pieces at the bottom of the door that are glued to the panel and hooked over plastic knobs inside the door. I pulled on the bottom of the door and accidentally broke those free from the panel - but used adhesive caulk to reglue when I replaced it. They were installed so you would have to pull the panel down to disengage, but the top requires pulling up - not sure how to do that right. Then pull the door panel up to free it from where it hangs over into the window opening at the top.

In addition on the power window. The motor for the power window might not be broken at all check the fuse under the steerin wheel. You would have to remove the panel under the steerin wheel. It has about 6 screws to it. All the screws are 10 mm socket, and 2 Philip screws. Remove the ashtray on the right and there are fuses behind that too. There you'll find the radio and clock fuses too. The power window and lock is the 30 amp fuse (pink) you can get that at any auto part store. Hope this help you out.

My 92 Camry had two windows go out because the cable that pulled the window up broke. A common occurrence, I've been told. That required replacing the power window motor assembly.

If it's anything like the 1995 Accent, and assuming you'll need to get the old one out, you'll need to remove the door trim panel and water shields, and lower the window glass. Then you'll scribe or paint (or otherwise mark) the two window channel-to-regulator bolts and remove them. Remove the glass by tilting the glass forward while lifting it up (and out) of the opening. Remove the regulator retaining bolts and then slide the regulator (up) out of the opening in the door (where you just took the glass). Slide new regulator in where you just removed old one and secure with retaining bolts. Reverse your steps in putting glass in, make sure it goes into the glass channel studs, making sure the rear edge of the glass is the same distance from the rear channel bolt hole as before (you removed the glass). Replace weather stipping and trim.

I had to take mine to the dealership to get mine changed. It cost about $300.

nope

I have discovered that the problem is in the Wiring between the door and the cabin. I grab the Rubber boot and move it and the windows start working for a while. I have read elsewhere that the Ground wire inside the boot is broken. I have not actually repaired it yet. This seems to be the most common cause of your problem.

It cannot be raised manually. You will have to repair it in order to raise the window.

Take it to the shop and drop something like $300. Or do it yourself for about $50 and an hour of your time. It is a relatively easy repair.

Which fuse controls the power windows in a 1997 Mountaineer?"

The first thing to check is the rear wiper arm. It needs to be "parked" properly in order for the rear window to work. Shake it up and down a little and then push it up onto its ramp. If it still wont go, remove the trim panel and steel cover. Unplug one of the wire connectors to one of the door latches and jump the harness side. close the gate and see if the window goes up. If it does, replace that latch. If it doesnt, jump the wires on the harness for the other side. one of these 3 things should make the window work.

You also might have an open circuit. Have your tailgate wiring checked or replace the wire harness from the cotrol module to the tailgate.......this should fix your problem...But first, check the tail fuse at junction block #1 ( engine compartment)....

Most of the relays for the 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora are under the back seat on the drivers side.

These instructions are not for bonded windscreens but are for rubber seals. Firstly please think of the type of glass you are handeling, If this is toughend glass it will take a bit of banging around the edge with your hand which helps when fitting. If it is laminated be very careful as one bang in the wrong place will crack it. There are two basic types of rubber seal one type has a slot to fit the car appature and a slot for the glass to fit in, which are opposite each other. There will also be a slot for a key rubber. This rubber seal is fitted around the car appature first, it can be held in place with masking tape from the car body round the rubber and onto the trim inside. If the rubber has two ends make sure these fit together perfectly with some glazing sealant or if you can align the rubber superglue is good. Attempt to fit the bottom corner of the glass into bottom slot of the rubber and push the glass as close to the corner as possible, with a modified screwdriver (eg with all the sharp edges taken of ) begin to work the rubber over the glass carefully around the bottom corners make sure the glass is well down in the slot and then work upward on each side of the glass and then along the top, again if this is toughend glass you can help it in with a few bangs from you hand, if laminated try a little soapy water and let it go in with care. Sealant can be applied around the slots at this stage if required and then a special tool is required to insert the key rubber.

The second type of rubber has a slot that fits the glass and a flange that pulls over the car windscreen appature. This rubber is usually prejoined. This rubber must be fitted around the glass first, you can use masking tape to secure the rubber as this can be removed as you are fitting. With the rubber fitted to the glass you need some strong thinnish cord or electrical wire or string, the size of picture cord. You want enough to go around the window twice idealy. Insert the cord starting at the bottom centre of the windscreen flange feeding the cord under the flang twice round, have about 2" hanging out at the bottom. Find yourself a friend and lift the windscreen into position against the apature making sure the two string ends are inside the car. Someone needs to be in the car and begin to pull the string and this will pull the rubber flange over the car appature. Try and get the bottom seated, lightly pushing the glass from outside will help, but be carefull because the glass that uses this type of rubber could be laminated, also with the cord twice round the rubber you get two goes at pulling the rubber over the car appature. The glass should be marked in one corner wether it is toughend or laminated.

If the window motor runs, replace the plastic spacers with ball bearings or bolt nuts. Oliver said it.

Great directions with lots of photos @
www.2carpros.com/how_to/power_window.htm

It is located behind the Glove box. release the locks on each side of box and it will fold down and the relay is located right atop the HVAC box

Assuming you found a new switch (I'm looking for one which is how I happened across your question), this is actually a pretty easy repair depending on the type of repair your button needs.

If it's just broken tabs on the rocker, this is very simple:

Using a small flat screw driver, pry out the grommet holding the button in place. It will pull the whole button with it. Using the small small screw driver, carefully lift the tabs on either side holding the grommet to the button. Be careful because these tabs are fragile.

The button is routed through a hole in the door. Again, if it's the rocker/button, remove the top cover from the new button and the top cover from the old button and swap them :-). BE CAREFUL not to drop the small metal inserts. Then, snap everything back together.

If it's the whole switch you need to replace, it's still not an overly difficult repair, but it is more involved and will take longer. Put the window up first (if you can)

First, follow the instructions above. Behind the button, there is a screw holding the handle to the frame. Remove that. Next, using a small screwdriver, snap off the covers for screws holding the inner door panel to the door, and remove the grommet from the door handle (you'll need to have the door handle pulled out "open" to remove it). Remove all screws from the panel (6 if I remember). There are two snap-ins holding the panel in place. Apply gentle pressure to snap those out. Now, the panel should just be hanging on the door. Rocking the panel back and forth will dislodge it. Once dislodged, reach through and remove the button from the inside of the handle. You may need to disassemble the button as indicated above to get it through, it's a pretty tight squeeze.

With the door panel removed, you'll probably have a piece of plastic covering the wires and holes. Carefully peel it back without tearing it and leave the gum in place. It does serve a good purpose and should not be discarded. Disconnect the switch from the wires attaching it to the window motor. This is pretty straightforward, just make sure you've got ahold of the right wires...Using your screwdriver, carefully bend the tab up and pull the wires apart. Unroute the wiring from behind the door and then re-route the new button wires and reconnect. TEST THE BUTTON

Attach the plastic back to the gum and while holding the panel close to the door, re-route the button through the handle. Again, you might need to disassemble it to get it in there. I prefer disassembling it instead of trying to force it, or trying to route/connect wires while also holding the panel. Your call...

Re-hang the panel on the door. Make sure it hangs correctly all the way across, but most especially by the mirror, where it may not be apparent at first. Screw in the handle screw first, and then push the snap-ins back into their holes. Return all original screws to their holes and cover with the platic caps.

Hope this helps.

Start with removing the door panel.


Disconnect the window/lock switch wiring harness - look for a tab to press in on to release it while pulling away from the panel

Inspect the door panel to see how the window/lock switch assembly is attached to it - likely to be some type of clip or retainer tab to press.

See "Related Questions" below for much more about getting the panel off; checking switched and wiring; and replacing the power window motor...

"Project Better Place" (www.ProjectBetterPlace.com) is providing technology to Renault to produce a large-scale electric car pilot project in Israel. The company hopes to have thousands of electric-only Renault Meganes on Israeli roads by 2010.

The technology provided by Project Better Place not only involves the car's function but roadside infrastructure that mimics a gas station. When an electric Megane runs low on power, the driver can pull into a charging station where a charged battery is swapped in. Instead of paying for gas, the driver is charged a usage fee for distance traveled, much in the same way mobile phone users are charged per minute of use.

Project Better Place founder and former high-tech entrepreneur Shai Agassi explains the concept in this video: http://www.jerusalemonline.com/specials18.asp

In the Power Distribution Box in the engine compartment , on the drivers side ( which is

" live " ) maxi fuse # 4 is a 30 amp fuse for the power windows , power moon roof ,

and power seat . It sounds like the fuse has blown

Where is located The fuse for power window in pathfinder 2007