Ford Bronco II XL

To remove the ignition cylinder from a 1989 Bronco II without a key, first disconnect the vehicle's battery to ensure safety. Then, locate the ignition switch and remove the plastic cover around the steering column. Insert a small tool like a flathead screwdriver into the small hole on the ignition cylinder to push in the retaining pin while turning the cylinder clockwise; this may require some force. Once the pin is depressed, you should be able to pull the ignition cylinder out.

To remove the gas tank from a 1998 Dodge Durango, start by safely lifting the vehicle and securing it on jack stands. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and then relieve fuel system pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse and running the engine until it stalls. Next, drain the fuel tank, disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors, and then unbolt the tank straps. Finally, carefully lower the tank from its mounting position and remove it from the vehicle.

To adjust the rod on a brake booster, first, ensure the vehicle is safely secured and the brake pedal is not depressed. Locate the adjustment nut on the pushrod connected to the brake pedal; loosen it to allow for length adjustments. Adjust the rod to achieve the proper clearance between the brake pedal and the pushrod, typically around 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Finally, tighten the adjustment nut securely and check the brake pedal feel before road testing.

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i have a 1984 bronco 2 and the ignition control mod went bad on it. It turned over but had no spark. The part was about 40 dollars and is located on the distributor. It takes a special tool to take it off. I changed mine and it started first try.

I would start by jumping the terminals on the starter solenoind,just use a wrench and touch it between the two large terminals on the solenoid. If the starter takes off and works I would guess that your problem may be in the ignition switch located on the steering column.

Sometimes even though the battery terminals look clean and the interior lights still light up, they can need cleaning. It is also possible that the wire into the terminal is not getting a good connection. This seems elementary, but it is the an easy solution and in my experience, this is most often the problem.

I don't recall that you had to remove the bezel or trim to get the radio out.

But, start with looking for screws at the bottom side of the trim piece, around the ashtray opening, etc.

Many panel trim pieces are then also held in place with simple 'friction' fasteners. That means a little, gentle prying with coax them up and out.

See "Related Questions" below for more about Taurus/Sable radios

0.035 inch was a previous answer.

I would seriously verify that. I show 0.035" as the SPARK GAP of the spark plugs, not the point gap inside the distributor.

The point gap I found was more like 0.017" measured with the points open on the high lobe of the distributor shaft.

if there is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe and your oil has not change color(milky white) then your headgasket is not the problem. the sound you hear is your lifters. they are not lubricating properly. check your oil level and quality also pressure. if you are using 10/30 try changing to a thicker oil. depending on your vehicle's year and miles you may need that extra layer of lub that a thicker oil provides. try also getting an "engine lucas" check your auto parts store they should know what that is. this will help your engine lubricate better and quiet the noise down.(i've used it) ''drive your car for a few days/miles and you should notice the diffrence.''

I have replaced the front manual roll down window. You need: Phillips and Flat Head screw driver #10 torx Head 2 1/4"x2" Screws A Drill and bit to remove 2 pop rivits.

1. Remove the door panel. (remove screws in the door opener, and door puller assist, and window crank). The window crank I believe is a #10 Torx head. Then with a screw driver pop each plastic from the door.2. Remove plastic liner from the door.3. Clean all debris from inside the door (glass maybe...)4. If you have a used window, Drill out the pop rivits from the plasic assembly. Remember how they go on there!5. Obtain 2 - 1.4"x2" screws, with lock nuts.6. Slide window in sideways.Once in the door flip window to the correct orientation.7. Now take your plastic assemblies from step 4, and put them back on the windows using the screws, and lock nut.8. Adjust the window scissors down, and move the window up (by hand) then back down till they are in the brackets, they should lock into place.9. Replace liner and door panel and attachments.

I personally replaced the door liner as it does keep alot of road dust out of the truck. I used another piece of heavy duty plastic and some silicon sealer.

you have to replace the whole motor assy. you can buy after market from places like napa.

1-4-2-5-3-6-

I believe the computer controls the grounds,not the positive.Therefore the injectors are"live"when the key is on,but don't fire till the computer grounds them.

Ford V8 >>> 352, 360, 390, 406, 427, 428 Firing Order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 Rotor Under Cap Spins:Counter Clockwise ************* Firewall ************ (Passenger Side) 4 * 8 (Drivers Side) (Passenger Side) 3 * 7 (Drivers Side) (Passenger Side) 2 * 6 (Drivers Side) (Passenger Side) 1 * 5 (Drivers Side) ************* Radiator ************

Carefully, cleanly, with the proper tools.

push the 4X4 button located on the center console If you have a manual transfer case, you have to lock the front hubs, Turn the dials on the front hubs from "FREE" to "LOCK". The manual transfer case is "shift-on-the-fly". This means you can shift between 2HI and 4HI and back while moving. You must be stopped to shift from 4HI to 4LO or from 4LO to 4 HI. With automatic hubs the above answer will work. To disengage the auto hubs take it out of 4 wheel drive and drive in reverse for around 10 feet.

I need to know which relay you are refering to? What does it operate?

You probably have manual braked and dont have a booster,,a booster ia a large 8" to 10"(roughly) round can about 4" deep ,bolted directly to the master cylinder

SO it goes, firewall,MC,Booster

broken engine gasket.

The brake booster is what gives you power brakes. In the engine compartment in front of the steering wheel is a round black flat ball looking thing. That's the brake booster with the brake master cylinder attached in front of it. The brake booster uses VACCUM from the engine to multiply the force that your foot applies to the master cylinder. Used with power brake applications

Actually, any Rear Wheel Drive Chevrolet Engine, manufactured since 1955, with the exception of the Chevette. The Stock 2.8 V-6, S-10 Bellhousing. being the biggest problem. It only bolts to a 2.8 V-6. If the truck came with a 4.3 V-6, then you can use, the 151, Four, the 194, 230, 235, 250, 292, Six cylinders-the 262, 265. 283 302, 307, 327, 350, and 400 V-8s.

The instrument cluster can be removed by removing your headlight and hazard switches then the panels under the steering wheel. You have to ultimately remove the plastic housing that the switches are in. In order to gain access to those screws you will have to take the lower panels off and work your way up to the housing

you flooded it