Ford E-150 Van

Then the problem could be either the solenoid or the starter.

Most likely it is the starter.

IT IS MOUNTED BY RIVETS. YOU MUST DRILL THEM OUT

If you mean for the stero, check at www.installdr.com.

2.5 Liter 4 cylinder is 1-3-4-2 4.3 Liter V6 is 1-6-5-4-3-2

A pain in the butt if you do it their way. I have two vehicles AC air systems running on RS12A. Today it took 30 minutes to convert my Oldsmobile from R12 to RS12A. Being as how all the r12 was gone this was an easy project. type in "Evirosafe" on your search engine nad look for freon or RS12A

how to change the serpentine belt on 2003 Chevy express 2500

the type s has a bigger v6, that pushes 160 hp (for the 2003 models like mine)

suspension upgrate, wheel upgrade on most cases, silver gage, aviable 6speed man, or auto, 260 hp instead of 225 , the engine just has better breathing and couple other simple tweaks

It is pretty easy but you can mess it up so get a manual on your truck from the parts store which will help on the next repair.

Added info: My manual was incorrect on how to get the fan off the water pump. I'm not sure if the 97 is the same as a 1999 and 2000, but I think it is. First thing is to take off the air filter "box"and radiator overflow tank. Then the plastic fan shroud. Then you should be able to get to everything. Your local auto parts store should have a special tool to hold the fan pully while you loosen the big nut that goes on the front of the water pump (look at the new water pump to determine if the threads are right or left hand threads so you know which way to turn the nut to loosen). Once you get the fan and clutch off the water pump, then it's pretty straight forward. One thing is you must have new gaskets when putting on the new water pump. These gaskets will want to fall off when you try to put the pump on (a real pain in the butt). Buy some of the gasket maker stuff that is made for waterpumps/theromostat housings and use on the gaskets to hold in place.

To actually "flush" the coolant in this vehicle you will need a flush machine. To do that we did at the dealership, drain the radiator (you need a 1/4 inch ratchet and 1 inch extension) then use a vacuum fill too to fill with new coolant.

I have a 1984 E150 that originally had a 4.9L in it- it now has a 3.9L which is essentially the same engine; the 4.9L has a longer stroke. The problem with this process is that the oil pump will get in the way of removing the oil pan; the oil pan should be removed completely so as to properly clean the surface of the old gasket. Not removing it completely from the vehicle and you risk dropping in old gasket material into the oil pan.

You will need to undo the motor mounts at where the motor mounts to the frame (two large nuts, one on either side). This is necessary as the engine will have to raised as high as possible in order to get at the removal of the oil pump. Once these nuts (motor mounts) have been removed, before jacking up and blocking the engine, ensure that you have enough room on the top side; not doing so will damage the intake assembly and related parts. Remove whatever you can/need to in order to get as much clearance as possible. Also, before jacking up and blocking the engine, loosen off the tranmission mounts so as to allow the transmission to be raised with the engine. At this point, you should have already removed the "doghouse" (cowling on the inside, between the driver's and passenger's seats) as this will assist greatly in this process.

Once the engine mount nuts have been removed and the transmission mounts have been loosened off, jack up the engine by placing a block of wood under the crank pulley, using a 1+ ton floor jack. This block should have one end that is cut in a 1/2 circle so as to conform to the shape of the crank pulley, thus lessening the chance of it coming out while you are jacking the engine up. Once you have it up as far as possible , use blocking ( I used short pieces of 2X4's) between the raised engine and the frame mounts. BE VERY CAREFUL! ALWAYS BE AWARE OF WHERE THE FLOOR JACK IS; ANY CONTACT WITH IT COULD DISLODGE IT, CAUSING THE ENGINE TO COME DOWN UNEXPECTANTLY. To be safe I never place my hands in any areas of danger until the engine is safely blocked up. As well, I always keep some tension on the jack for added safety; I never actually remove it until the job is completed.

Once the engine is securely blocked, ensure that the oil has been removed from the oil pan. Begin removing the numerous oil pan bolts. Place them in a container that holds liquid; it's always nice to wash them off before placing them back, later. Once done, the oil pan will drop down almost all of the way out.Possibly the 1994 frame is different from my 1984's but I'm guessing that the raising of the engine was not done in vain; in other words you'll be glad that you did it and won't find out the hard way that you should've done it before going ahead and removing the oil pan. Or tried to.

As I said, almost all of the way. The pan will now be low enough for you to disconnect the oil pump. It is removed at three points; two 1/2" bolts on the engine block and a 3rd (support) on a crank main bolt. You only need to remove the nut, leaving the crank main nut alone (essentially a double-nut arrangement). Drop the oil pump carefully into the oil pan, then pull the pan towards the transmission and down, to remove the pan completely.

Remove the oil pump. Hopefully you will have done so from the block without damaging the gasket but if it's damaged, even slightly, replace it. Clean the gasket surface of the oil pan thoroughly of any old gasket material. Inspect the areas around where the bolts pass through; if they look slightly raised this may be normal or it may be that they need to be flattened out. If they are all raised the same then this may be normal but if you have any questions, ask a reputable and/or trusted mechanic if this is normal or if this surface has to be flattened. Depending on who was working on this engine previous (if anyone), they may have over-tightened the pan bolts, thus damaging these surfaces.

After purchasing the necessary gaskets, keep some axle grease on hand; this will help to keep the gaskets in place as you hold the pan up with one hand while hand-tightening enough to hold it into place. By now, the oil pan should have been thoroughly washed out with solvent. Place the gaskets on the surface of the oil pan after you have lightly greased the surface of the pan. After inspecting the oil pump's pickup (screen) for any debris, take the oil pump and place it on the inside of the oil pan, carefully positioning it so as to be able to directly raise it into place; it will have to be re-installed before you even begin to re-attach the oil pan.

You will now appreciate the time you took to raise and block the engine. Not doing so, at least in a 1984, will not allow you to re-install the oil pump. Be careful as to not over-tighten the oil pump bolts. I'm not sure if there is a specific torque that you should abide by but a torque wrench shouldn't really be necessary, here. Use your judgment but remember; too much and you'll twist of the head. Getting a drill, tap and dye into that area is difficult. Too little and you'll begin by noticing a drop in oil pressure before it fails completely.

Once the oil pump is in place (remember that there is a 3rd mount, on the crank main), with one hand holding the pan loosely in place, take a few bolts and hand-tighten the pan into place, being careful not to damage the gaskets. Replace the remainder of the bolts but do not tighten them right up; just enough to feel a little bit of tension. Then, tighten them in an alternating pattern, side-to-side, front-to-back. Try to be as even as possible. This will require that you go back-and-forth; don't tighten them up completely the first go- around. Again, don't over-tighten them; doing so will damage the surface of the oil pan and possibly the gasket, causing you to re-do everything, if not right away then soon after the job was supposedly completed.

Jack the motor back up enough to remove the blocking, BEING CAREFUL TO KEEP YOU HANDS FREE OF ANY DANGEROUS AREAS. Then, carefully and slowly lower the engine so that the mounts return completely into place. I've experienced some engine movement that I'd not planned on, in previous jobs, such that one or both engine mount bolts no longer lined up with the frame mount's holes. It was a bit of a trick and prying but I managed to straighten things out so the lowering process was met with success.

Replace the engine mount bolts, retighten them along with the transmission mounts as well. Replace the engine oil with new, along with the oil filter.

Left front, right front, left rear, right rear, 4 converters total..

The EPA say's that an Ford E-150 with the (big) 5.8L engine gets an average of 17 MPG on the Highway (Highway miles are computed at 55mph average). But that's not nessesarily correct. I have a 1995 Ford E-150 Converstion Van with O/D and dual air that has 296,000 miles on it. On a recent 1,200 mile round trip from Tennessee to Maryland, my van averaged 21.5 (Highway)MPG on regular gas with four adult onboard plus luggage with the Cruise Control set at 58 MPH. I do use good Michelin tires and keep them pumped up to 55 psi .. The EPA say's that an Ford E-150 with the (big) 5.8L engine gets an average of 17 MPG on the Highway (Highway miles are computed at 55mph average). But that's not nessesarily correct. I have a 1995 Ford E-150 Converstion Van with O/D and dual air that has 296,000 miles on it. On a recent 1,200 mile round trip from Tennessee to Maryland, my van averaged 21.5 (Highway)MPG on regular gas with four adult onboard plus luggage with the Cruise Control set at 58 MPH. I do use good Michelin tires and keep them pumped up to 55 psi .... but other than that, there is nothing "special" about my van.

Yes. a 1976 Ford E-150 is exempt from emissions testing

5 by 5.5" or (139.7)

12qts with the torque converter drained. It will be far less if you have just removed the pan and filter.

You can view the 2009 Ford owners manuals ( which include the fuse box

diagram ) online at :

www . motorcraft service . com

Click on Owner Guides

(owners manuals for North America )

You can view the Owner Guide online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

I am looking for a wiring diagram of a direction signal or flasher for a 1992 E150 Ford Van.

The idler pulley is on a spring loaded arm. To release the tension, use a long breaker bar, or a long pipe on a box wrench. Use the proper size wrench or socket, and put it on the idler pulley bolt head. Rotate the idler arm assembly in a counter clock-wise direction and the tension will be released. Then you can remove the belt. Hint use rubber bands to keep the belt on the other pulleys while replacing the alternator. Joedi

length by width by height = dimensions example 12' * 6' * 8'

If it just the fuel gage then your sending unit is not working or their is a broke wire between the tank and the gage. If all your gages are not working check for a blwon fuse.

on the throttle body

Either check all the balljoints, tie-rods, stabilizers, shocks, idler, etc, yourself or have an independent repair garage do it for you [important...........the national franchises will see you as a sucker and sell you all kinds of unnecessary unneeded parts replacements]. If all components are okay and if the alignment is good, then excess steering box lash may be the culprit. This lash may be adjusted a bit at a time by loosening the 5/8" jam nut on the top of the steering box and turning the adjuster [held screw] clockwise and then re-tightening the jamb nut. I did mine a little at a time until I got it right. Now it's a pleasure instead of a nightmare to drive. PS...I think if you tighten it down too much then the steering might not return to the 'straight ahead' position after cornering. BTW.......I hate Fords policy of selling us junk and then selling expensive parts to fix the junk........ like fuel-filler molded hoses and door cables that the plastic deteriorates and fails as if on cue. '