Ford E-150 Van

under the steering wheel

Under the dash.Under the left side of the glovebox. Under two round aluminum (+- one inch diamter)cans.Pull off plastic lid (about 3" wide X 1.75" Tall), by hooking your finger under the bump on the bottom edge and pulling towords you.

ford 150 3v triton v8 5.4 2004

the horn is located under the air filter box

A manual fuel pump is easily replaced. However an electric fuel pump although easily replaced is hard to get to. Unless your vehicle has an access panel above the fuel pump mounted in the fuel tank on top, as most Honda's do, you will have to remove the fuel tank to gain access to the pump. Look closely for an access panel before draining and removing the tank.

Remove the back seat cushion. Unplug two electrical connectors. Remove the screws holding the cover over the pump. Remove the cover. Remove the screws holding the top on the tank. Carefully lift the pump and fuel gauge sender out. See Haynes manual for 323 and Protege.

break the window then get in

10 mpg in town 11 maybe 12 on the highway.. 6 our 8 cylinder doent matter same mpg I owned both

The 2011 Ford E-Series-VAN is 18 ft. 0.7 in. (216.7 in.) long.

Explorers like most other vehicles are limited to 108 miles per hour. It's an easy delete at most speed shops if you want to go faster, but while you are there have them classify your drive lime for what might be its safe limits.

Joe

Hinesville, GA

underneath the dash on the left hand side

The 1994 Ford E1 50 turn signal flasher can be found beneath the drivers side dashboard. The turn signal flasher relay will be above the brake pedal.

snap the black cover off inside the drivers door in front of the window undo blots disconnct wire fairly simple

TRUCK HAS A CHAIN THAT SHOULD LAST THE LIFE OF THE TRUCK. I don't believe that these engines are equipped with a "timing belt" like some Japanese & European cars, but a conventional timing chain as used by American manufacturers for many years. Timing chains do not need to be periodically replaced as with timing belts, except at engine overhaul which should at 150,000-200,000 miles or greater on today's engines if serviced & maintained properly. GM V-8s have timing chains as far as I know; expect to change around 50 to 70k miles is traditonal wisdom.

If you have the electronic climate control system it most likely is a Vacuum Hose leak

Start under the hood on Passenger side and replace all hoses from canister to under the dash this should help. With a Vacuum leak it defaults to defrost mode

The fuel pump is in the tank, as on virtually all modern vehicle.

My 2000 Chev. Astro Van started doing the same thing and it ended up being the fuel pump! It did that for about 7 months before it went out.

Re melted solder on 6 or 8 pins in main relay and it works just fine now.

"It is a very huge job. Release the fuel pressure. Raise back end of the vehicle and support with jackstands. Drop down the rear with a floor jack underneath the pumpkin. Remove the rear section of the exhaust system. Open fuel door and remove fuel filler screws. Remove the straps holding the gas tank. Find out where the fuel lines are connected and disconnect them. Take out the gas tank and then remove the fuel pump from the within the gas tank. There is a c clip holding it in place. Remove that clip by tapping it off with a flat head screwdiver and a hammer. Then put in the new fuel pump." ...Or, do this. First you'll need a dremel. Now go behind the rear passenger seats and lift the carpet. It shouldn't be glued down or anything. If so gently pull up on it. Directly in the center of the open space of metal now revieled, use the dremel to cut a small square to locate the fuel lines and 5 nuts. These lead to the pump which is strait below were you should've cut. Now located, cut a larger square for room to remove the nuts and lines from the top of the pump. Once fuel lines are disconected and the nuts removed, GENTLY lift the pump out of the tank. Once done, you can see the actual tank which is the metal cylindrical thing at the bottom if not incased by a tan casing. There you go, now you may replace the pump or look for problems.

I'm Not Sure I Was Trying To Find that answer too i have a 1997 ford e150 4.7lt v8 and it has 271,000 and we take it on the interstate like almost everyday. Very reliable vehicles i'm thinking the AVERAGE lifespan would be maybe 220,000 miles or more

This may or may not help. I am working on 98 at the moment. I have the heater core right in front of me. Passenger side, under the dash board, behind a plastic panel that is held in place with 8 screws. I can see it but I cannot get is out. Still working on it.

I have the exact 99 e150 v8 van. and I'm working on replacing my heater core now. the core is located as stated above. i had to remove several pieces of metal under the dash to get the heat core cover off. A top screw on the cover was particularly hard to remove.

next, the core has two connections through the firewall to rubber heater hoses. After having taken the core out, in retrospect I suggest you just cut these connections any way you can - even cutting the heater hose line (obviously close to factory coupler end). For 2 reasons; I found it nearly impossible to back the heater core out from the firewall with the factory couplers still on the ends.. AND the two ends are of no reuse to you any how.

The reason being any replacement heater core you use - a Ford part of otherwise isn't going to have the factory style clips on the two female lines that connect to the rubber heater hose lines. (one is 5/8" and the other 3/4"). You can buy a coupler kit from Ford along with their replacement heater core. Same for other OEM solutions (like from Rockauto), who will sell you a couple quick connect female couplers.

Or you can use good quality hose clamps.

The fuel filter is on the inside part of the driver side frame rail. It's located just ahead of the gas tank. You'll need a special tool (available at parts stores) to release the filter from the fuel line fittings. Sometimes it's easy to take off the filter and sometimes it difficult. I've been there.
suggest cleaning inside of fitting with brake clean before removal if it has not been done in a while. the dirt and trash will not let the spring move some times.


If the spring won't move and the filter can't be released. I will go to a parts store with a 'HELP" rack selection and buy a Ford fuel line spring package [three 10mm and three 14mm metal springs, I think] I will cut the rear tube off of the filter with pliers. Then I will slide the filter towards the back and and cut the front tube off the filter [cut as close to the filter body as possible].


Even though you remove the fuel relay and run the vehicle out of gas, wear goggles and have a bucket to catch the spraying gas with. Then, simply use a small screwdriver to dig the springs out [I start with a small and finish with a larger screwdriver]. {Ideally a dental instrument would really make it a quick process}. Put new 10mm springs back in the lines, snap in the new filter, and you're golden.

By the way.......the first paragraph was very well written by someone other than me....bob young.

I PUT SIX QUARTS OF HEAVY DIESEL MOTOR OIL FOR MY 1988 CLUB WAGON SINCE IT BURNS UP OIL FAST AND HAS HIGH MILEAGE. THE THICKER THE OIL THE BETTER AND MY VAN RUNS ON GAS NOT DIESEL

in the fuel tank it is attached to the sending unit

on the 1992 e-150 the tank is 35 gallons and on the e-350 it is 45 gallons