Ford E-250 Van

Schrader valve on fuel rail.

it involves taking apart the entire engine. if the rod bearings need to be replace so should all the other bearings. my advice is to take it to a shop. it will be expensive and take a long time, but is necessary for your engine to last. I took the oil pan bolts off. Unbolted front motor mount. Took rod caps off. Replaced bearings, With New oil pan gasket.

You see this is the problem with sites like these. If you do get lucky enough to get a response from someone who actually knows what they are talking about, chances are they don't have the ability to convey it properly in writing, as with the case above. The question was how do you replace a rod bearing? And the guy says "it involves taking the entire engine apart" WRONG!

In a lot of cases you can drop the oil pan to gain access to the rod bearings, remove the nuts, remove the old bearings, replace with new, replace oil pan. The guy who answered sprouted off into two different directions with his "answer". It can be a fairly simple job, but if you've never done it before and I'm guessing you haven't since you asked how, do not attempt to do it without help from someone who has. And please, double, triple, and quadruple check the answers you get from forums like these. Forums can be a lifesaving place when the right information is given. But if an answer starts out with: "I'm guessing" or "I would think" or "I've never done it before but" then you're on your own. Nobody in a help forum such as this should be giving advice unless they know exactly what they are talking about. This is not an "opinion" forum where you just throw out random b.s that you heard somewhere or "well my buddy said do this". People come here looking for sound, genuine advice.

2006 E250 speaker size is 6x8"

Try pouring some clam chowder into it, it's my fav

it is probable the gauge regulator or sensor in the fuel tank that is on fuel pump. Drop tank and clean contacts on it or replace whole fuel pump assemble.

If you are talking about the v8, remove the cowling between the front seats, you will see the wire leads to the spark plugs. Vacumn the recessed area where the plugs are to prevent dirt falling in the cylinders. On the left side you need to remove a protective sheild. It has two bolts screwed to the floor. You should be able to reach all the plugs now. LIONHEART

automatic

I also have a 99 prizm with a blinking air bag light. It started blinking in 2003. Took it to the dealer and they told me it was the SRS module and replaced it for almost $1500 bucks (dealer covered charges). 1 month later, started blinking again. took it back and dealer said it MAY BE the air bag solonoid on the passanger side. This would cost me $900 dollars to replace as that was not covered by warranty. I asked if that was for sure the problem. They responded that it was merely the next step in the flowchart. The SRS module was first, then solonoids, then airbags etc. This could potentially go on infinitum. Hence, You can take a chance and ignore it like I have, or go down the expensive rabbit hole chasing a cure for what is probably a Chevy/Toyota fantom problem. I also have a 99 Prizm, and mine blinks, too! I have no idea why. It stopped a few months ago and has stayed off, but I'm sure it will come back eventually. Good luck! You are dealing with a primary safety device in your vehicle. A device that can save your life. The SRS is not a system that can be worked on by a novice. Serious injury can occur if you do something wrong. The flashing light is an indication that something is wrong with the system. Take the car to you local GM dealer and have it repaired by a pro ASAP. Your life or a family members life may depend on it.

A massive hazard to your wealth.

Well FORD is a pos,

Fixed

Or

Repaired

Dailiy

Found

On

Road

Dead

yesThis is a gasoline motor right? yes yes it is

the fuel filter is along the inside of the frame on the drivers side of the van.

allternator , solinoid, or distribution cap o2 sensor,starter,fuel filter,fuel pump,

Need to remove engine mount bolts jack motor up as high as possible best to remove disributor cap as not to crack it remove oil pan remove oil pump and shaft install new pick up screen so that screen is flat with the bottom of pump have to hammer it in using vise grips clipped above ring on screen reinstall shaft and reverse process.

: You mind aswell buy a new motor because the old one could not have survived without the oil pump running. Its also easier/potentially cheaper to slap a rebuilt motor for $900 into the truck, rather than replacing all the gaskets, seals and rusted bolts you will have to remove to change the oil pump.

Try Autozone.com It has a repair section that will have firing orders for this vehicle. Good luck.

Remove engine oil pan

How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter

By Dave West

I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful.

Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs.

To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.

After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good.

On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.

Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support. usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.

I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.

Additional tools that aid changing spark plugs buried in the engine are a swivel head socket handle, a short handled socket handle, a magnetic socket that holds the plug more securely, and a 5 inch long spark plug socket that aids in aligning the spark plug in blind holes you can't see into. Especially important if you are changing plugs on a van.

Look at your manual for a specific answer but i believe it it around 5800 to 6000 pounds.

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

front pump, direct clutch, try a can of liquid berrymans B-12 (chemtool) Pour in the whole can, and bring the engine up to temp, and shift through all gears...then drain and refill with a new filter...if its a stickey valve body, this should unstick it... let me know what happens and good luck :) Dave tradertaippan@yahoo.com I forgot to include the fact that the car originally had an Inline 6 Cylinder and with that engine the transmission worked fine. We have since then switched to the V8 289 and are having problems with the transmission engaging. We have replaced/switched torque convertors and bell housings for the 289 to bolt up to the transmission correctly.. do you have any idea what would cause it not to engage after the engine swap?

The van itself weighs around 5000-5300. If it's extended it might be more. If it's a cube van or cutaway it could be 6000 or more.

There is a special tool that pushes down the horn plate then remove the "C" clip,then a wheel puller to remove the wheel.

GVWR of the '96 Ram B2500 Van is 6800lbs

I assume you mean the bottom radiator hose which means the radiator is doing a good job in cooling the water. Most likely the thermostat is stuck open and the block temeperature is not getting up enought to give you "hot" water through the heater core. Now if you are talking about the heater hoses then there may be only a small flow because the heater water control valve is only partially open or clogged, Maybe the hose collasped or the heater core is clogged. Remove the hoses from the engine and check them and the heater core flow with your garden hose water pressure. First check to see if the heater core has been bypassed, usually done when a leaking core is present during the summer time.Then check for flow with water hose, if a coolant system stop leak was ever added to the cooling system the heater core is the first to get clogged ,due to the smaller ports. If all is ok there check to see if the air flow vane is being actuated to change the air flow from cold to hot. The vane is usually either vacuum or mechanically operated. On the vacuum style the hoses crack and sometimes the mechanical cables malfunction, either way the vane doesn't engage when the heat setting is applied to allow the air flow into the heater core housing/box.

Chevy in every class of vehicle by far.

If you just bought this vehicle, the safety restraint system has been compromised. It may have been involved in an accident where the safety restraint system was not fixed properly. In fact, you may have no functioning airbags or sensor. If this is a problem that has just popped up here's a possible solution. First of all, the light just does not "come on". When you start the engine there should be a code. Count the number of times the airbag light flashes. The code may be 44 or 45 - depending on whether the driver's seat or passenger's seat is having a problem. Check under your seats for a disconnected or broken wire. Each seat has a pretensioner device built into the side of the seat. This device has an "explosive" device in it. If you are in an accident, this device goes off the tightens the seat belt to hold you from going forward. If the wire to these devices is broken or disconnected, the light will flash a code and then stay on. If you are going to work on this problem, disconnect your battery to avoid any chance of the airbag going off. If you have NOT had an accident, and replaced the airbags, then the most probable cause for the light staying on is my explanation.