Ford Escape XLT

around 100 labor

You have to remove the front bumper, remove the headlight assembly. then take the fog light bulb out.

In many instances , drain plugs for sunroofs are located inside the door panel. In some models, this can be found on the passenger side compartment. This is due to the sunroof having two drain hoses, the other being on the drivers side. Once you open the vehicle doors, you should be able to find it. The upper portion of the hoses will be visible if the headliner of the vehicle is removed.

The tail light is held on by two screws and two pins. You will see the two screws when you open the back hatch. The two pins are on the opposite side of the tail light in the same general position as the screws. After you remove the two screws, you will find that the tail light assembly can be rocked a little but is still firmly attached. Proceed carefully as you can break the pins since they are only made of plastic. Gently pull the side of the tail light with the screws toward you about 1/8 of an inch. At the top center of the tail light you should now be able to slip you finger tips in to the opening. The plastic is a little sharp so use caution. Gently pull the tail light straight back towards you. You will feel the pin release. At that point you will understand how the whole thing goes together. To release the bottom pin you will need to slip a flat head screwdriver between the tail light and the metal vehicle body. With gentle prying pressure you will feel the bottom pin release. The assembly containing the bulb releases after about one-third of a turn. The bulb pulls easily from the socket with light pressure.Each bulb socket has differently keyed tabs so you cannot insert the wrong socket in the wrong lens portion (e.g. tail light vs turn signal).

The tail light assembly goes back together easily and is done in reverse. You will hear the pins click when they have reattached. It only requires light pressure. Then just reinstall the two screws. Don't over tighten the screws as you can crack the plastic. Open back door unscrew the 2 screws and pull the whole Tail light out

I have a 1982 Z28. I am in the middle of replacing all of the relays and fuses in it. There is a plethora of relays behind the dash, removal is necessary and is a relatively arduous task. I recommend you replace all of the relays if you have not done so yet. They are all as old as me and have probably been used as often to boot. There are also relays behind the radio enclosure and in the center console. I believe the horn relay is on the drivers side near the computer dock. Good luck.

autozone has them for under $15, and about 30 minutes of your time

It simply bolts on and has 2-3 wires and batt cable attached. Disconnect battery, then lift car if you need room to squeeze in underneath, remove wires/batt cable. Remove bolts to block (2 or 3) Take care removing last one-starters weigh about 50 lbs. It is an easy task with basic tools

The maximum payload of the 2005 Ford Escape is 1101 lbs..

From behind the front bumper locate the assembly grasp the plug disconnecting it them twist the bulb socket counter clockwise (when looking at the back of the housing, they are usually pretty snug.

I bought a 17mm ring end wrench to apply to the belt tensioner pulley nut. When you bear down on this, the tensioner pulley moves out of the way and the belt can be replaced or removed much more easily. I suggest you check the necessary wrench size before you buy one, just to be sure for your application.

You can find a diagram of the parts under the hood of a car inside the owner's manual. You can also find it in the vehicle's Chilton auto repair manual.

block the wheels jack uo and put in your safety stands remove tire remove brake caliper and rotor remove the axle nut now the fun begins!! use a 3 jaw puller and pull off the hub then remove the 2 tourqe rods from the rear housing Idid this so not to disturbe the ball joints remove the lower shock bolt and drop the spindle down and pull the axle out off the hole then remove the snap ring from the front off the bearing then with a good punch and hammer drive the old bearing out and then drive the new one in carefully as not to damage it oh ya don't forget to take the bolts out of the flex line and abs sensor so that you don't stretch them good luck!!

It is possible that you had a chip in the window. If you did then it would be significantly weakened and the temperature difference between the inside of your car and the outside would eventually cause it crack and shatter; especially if the difference was extreme which it would be if you had your heater on inside.

take it to the autozone they check the engine light for free

It means the computer has detected a problem with the emissions system. Make sure your gas cap is tight. If that is not the problem, then you need to have the computer scanned for a fault code. This code you give you and idea where to look. Auto Zone & Advance Auto Parts will do a free scan in most states. The ZX2's are notorious for having temprature sending unit problems...a quick fix to get the light to go off is to make sure the radiator is full first....then if that is ok disconnect the RED or POSITIVE battery terminal for about 5 - 10 minutes. This resets the computer. You'll have to reprogram your radio and clock but the CES light will be out. If it comes back on then have it checked like above.

Fog lights won't operate if high beams are on.

might want to check the wiring, relay, and the bulbs

There is a spring loaded tensioner that holds the tension on the belt. Get a wrench that fits the nut on the tensioner and apply alot of clockwise pressure that will losen the tensioner and allow the belt to go on and off.

Maybe,

Some cars require a High octane fuel to protect the inside of the engine from damage.

If a car is rated to run on "Regular" there is normally no advantage to Higher cost fuel

Some engines can run on Regular but as detailed in the manual will make more power and better economy on better gas. Then yes better fuel will help.

installed in all exhaust cavities

It is a common misconception that a person can fix a problem by "reseting" an ECM(PCM). There really is no such thing as reseting the PCM. A PCM is a logic device, that actually learns as it goes, and makes adjustments in it's stradegy based on what it has learned, and even remembers what has happened on previous drive cycles. A PCM learns stradegy over time to compensate for engine wear, driving conditions, and even the driving habits of the operator. It can also learn about a weak or faulty sensor in the system and learn to compensate for it, within certain limits. A PCM is a "thinking" device that makes decisions, and can change it's mind, so to speak, to adjust to different situations. You can erase it's memory, and force the PCM back to it's original preset stradegies by disconnecting and waiting 5-10 minutes. But the PCM will be quick to relearn everything, and will turn the check engine light back on when and if it recognizes a problem. So you will have to find and correct whatever the trouble is that is making you want to "reset" the PCM.

diesel's dont produce enough

A lot depends upon when the timing belt broke. If it broke at an idle, valves possibly are OK, If it broke at high engine speed, then bent valves are a strong possibility. All depends upon what manufacturer or model engine it is. Some manufacturers engines rarely bend valves, others almost certainly bend them. Put a new timing belt on and properly time it. Then check compression on all cylinders. If all cylinders have 125 psi or higher, then you are ok.

The 2005 Chevrolet Equinox has front wheel drive.

The 2005 Audi A4 has front wheel drive.