Ford Escape

There is a non-destructive way to fix a roof gutter on a Ford Van in order to reseal against water leaking into the interior of the vehicle. Wherever there is a rust hole, a person can use a product called Bondo. Bondo is a tape or screen that is fastened on using a glue. Then sand smooth, after it dries. If there is still a leak, a new sealant can be put over the old sealant just to fill in holes. After this dries, it can be sanded and sprayed with a primer paint.

The 2002 Ford Escape, as in nearly all modern vehicles does not require a 'tune up.' This a term largely obsolete due to computer managed engines and transmissions. However this vehicle does need engine oil, coolant, transmission, belts, hoses, fuel filter, pcv, and brake maintenance services. Some shops may use marketing semantics to call these routine services in bundles as 'tune ups.' That being said the Escape does have spark plugs and ignition wires. Modern platinum and iridium spark plugs often have service intervals of 100,000 miles.

The manual transaxle ( transmission ) on your Ford Escape does not have a

fluid level dipstick like the automatic would normally have

( it is probably checked at the FILL PLUG on your transmission , underneath the vehicle )

Here's a great video showing how to remove and replace the ignition coils. Your PCM will need to be repaired at the same time:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWUduwyJYCY

4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. 3. On the 4.6L engine, remove the nut and brake booster bracket. 4. On the 5.4L engine, remove the DPFE sensor retaining nuts and place the sensor to the side to allow access to the EGR tube. 5. Disconnect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube from the EGR valve. 6. Remove the EGR valve mounting bolts, then separate the valve from the intake manifold. 7. Remove and discard the old EGR valve gasket, and clean the gasket mating surfaces on the valve and the intake manifold. To Install: 8. Install the EGR valve, along with a new gasket, on the manifold, then install and tighten the mounting bolts. 9. Connect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube to the valve, then tighten the tube nut to 25-35 lbs. (34-47 Nm). 10. Connect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve. 11. On the 5.7L engine, install the DPFE sensor. 12. On the 4.6L engine install the brake booster bracket and the retaining nut. 13. Connect the negative battery cable.

15 US Quarts

To remove impurities

Torx T 40 socket

it sounds like CV joints that are worn out, you will notice it more if at low speed you turn sharply. This definitiely sounds like a worn out CV joint. The complete half-shaft should be replaced immediately. These are carried by most of the major after-market auto parts outlets such as Schucks, UAP. The half-sahft is a remanufactured unit with new CV joints and boots. If one side is gone, chances are good that the other side is going; my advice is to replace both half-shafts (I have done this twice on my 1989 Mazda 323).

The first thing I would suspect is a wheel that is way out of alignment. Have it checked. Depending on what you mean by squeeking, it might also be a bad CV (continuous velocity) joint. This is part of the 1/2 axel between the transmission and the wheel. The last time I paid someone to replace one, it was about $150.00. Ever since then, I've replace my own.

Warm up your engine since transmission fluid expands when hot. Set the parking brake on a level surface and put the shifter in neutral. Then pull the trans dip stick with the engine running, the same as checking your oil.

Just to the left of the engine temperature gauge , at the center of the normal

operating temperature range . It is a symbol of a person wearing a seat belt with a

circle in front of them

Most likely a partially plugged catalytic converter Or engine misfire Is the check engine light on?? If not have your exhaust backpressure checked

Check the yellow wire under the front seats one of them must be lose.

Check fuses

Check Vacuum dump switch located at the upper end of the brake pedal (similar to brake light switch) for alignment and adjustment

Check the center stop light ( I don't know why, but they tell me if center brake does not work cruise will not work.) neither seem to have power but the fuses are all in good condition but no cruse ot traction control please help

1. Fuse Blown
2. Wiper Relay Blown
3. Spindles Stripped
4. Linkage Broke
5. Wiper Motor Blown

   Normally its just the fuse. See your owners manual.

put a spacer block between the seat rail and the floorboard.

5W-20 , according to the Owner Guide

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Just adding to the answer :

With engine oil filter change the 2.0 liter Zetec four cylinder engine in a 2004

Ford Escape takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts )

* 5W-20 as mentioned above

the sizes are on the sticker on the drivers door

Plug on the upper side of the transmission. Use only the proper lube as outlined in your owner's manual.

9mm

Welfare of other captivities

Barriers outside of your holding facility

Tools required for an escape

I am not familiar with your model of Ford, BUT... I have owned Fords for years, including right now an '89 F-150 and a '93 F-150, and have helped family and friends with other brands of vehicles.

Most late model vehicles don't require dis-assembly of the lens from the assembly. Usually, the bulb is inserted into a SOCKET which inserts into the BACKSIDE of the reflector of the light assembly with a one quarter turn clockwise [to the right] of the socket into the assembly.

On some vehicles the tail light assemblies and their wiring are CONCEALED behind some carpeting and/or fiberboard panels. If this is the case, these panels are usually just sized to be a force-fit into the compartment, BUT... before trying to "muscle" it out, CAREFULLY CHECK see IF "they" used some screws to secure the panel or carpet in place. IF SO, then remove the screws before trying to remove the fiberboard or carpet concealment panels.

To change a bulb, you open the trunk, find the right socket for the tail light, grasp the socket [the wires come out of the back of it] and gently rotate the socket about one quarter of a turn counterclockwise [anticlockwise-left].

This will allow the socket to be pulled out of the assembly exposing the light bulb. While holding the socket in one hand, with the other hand gently "rock" the bulb in the socket while pulling outward which should release and remove the old bulb.

Then insert the new bulb in the socket, reinstall the socket into the opening in the back of the assembly reflector, and gently turn 1/4 turn clockwise to lock it in the reflector.

Then if present, reinstall the concealment panel or carpet.