Ford Explorer XLS

Electrical - check voltage to "reverse" selonid.

With my knowledge on Nissans, it could also be a transmission problem. If it is a 5-speed, it is more than likely the tranny. Reverse is the gear that goes out first most of the time

It sounds like you probably blew a fuse most of the time several smaller electrical devixes will be on the same fuse. check under your dash or just inside the engine bay for your fuse box(es) the fuses are usually marked pretty good on the box or lid panel. from orion_1120@yahoo.com There is an Integrated Control Unit (ICU) on back of the dash fuse box that controls the intermittent wipers, rear window defroster relay, and several functions that are controlled by the door switches (chimes, seat beats, etc.). When this unit fails, some and possibly all the functions it controls will not work. You must remove the 3 bolts holding the dash fuse box to the kick panel and turn it over to get access to the ICU. The ICU is expensive to replace (approximately $250) and is a dealer item only. I suggest you go to a salvage yard. That's what I did and I paid $20. Good Luck! Kevin

Check, or even better replace, the wires.

The biggest difference is that a Sport is a 2 door and the XLT is a 4 door.

True, but, as an owner of one, I must point out that the XLT vs. the Sport is a "trim package" with some "pow." You may have overlooked these facts when it

comes to the Ford Explorer XLT:

Tinted Windows, except the front windshield.

Third row of seats = seats 9 passengers..

Is a true "Crossover" vehicle.

Has more in the way of the sound system, and all the "extras" Ford packaged

with it.

Wider wheelbase, and a few inches longer.

Larger "cargo area", sans one row of seats.

Comes with a V-6 SOHC, or a V-8.

Uses a Load rated tire "from the factory" as "H" or higher; speed rating of "S",

or higher.

Comes with a duplicate spare, which matches the four tires, already installed on

the vehicle, in an out-of-the way, under carriage, below the gas tank. Easy-to- reach "valve stem", so one can keep the "spare" properly inflated.

Much more sophisticated alarm system.

Driver's side, push button, coded entry.

Three separate fuse banks.

Plus a few other "extras", such as the leather-jacketed, Owner's Manual; a

larger and roomier, between the driver's/front passenger's seat, accessory

box.

Of course, this is just IMHO. I'm sure that anyone else could have found all of this out anyway, I was just asked to look at the original "Poster's question".

you just need a "DIN Radio Removal Tool" it looks like a tiny metal u-shaped wicket, that inserts into the small indents and pops the unit. that you can get in any Walmart store it cost around $4.00 dlls. maybe you'll need two set if your car has a radio and CD player.

I found there was no How-To on fuel filter replacement on this site so I thought I'd add one. I just got done with it so here it goes:

First off, this was done on my 04 Explorer 4.0l with 29k on it. I've been suffering from the shakes at idle. It seemed to happen after getting gas at Delta Sonic.

Your experience may be different depending on model and year.

Tools:

ratchet

10mm socket

13mm socket

Ford fuel tool

rags

new filter

safety glasses

Step 1:

Pull fuel pump relay #48 and start truck. Truck may run and stall or not run at all.

#2

Block rear wheels and raise front end. Only the passenger side is really necessary. USE JACK STANDS

#3

Locate filter. It's on the passenger side at the front/top of the fuel tank. It has a plastic cover then an aluminum heat shield over it so you won't see it.

#4 remove heat shield. Held on by 3 13mm bolts

heat shield

#5 Remove plastic cover. Held by 2 10mm bolts

Plastic cover

Now you can see the filter.

#6

Remove the hose connections. The output side has a funky metal clip that needs to be slide towards the filter a bit then pushed up to disengage. Use the Ford tool to remove the output side hose. This goes over the filter tube and slide under the hose connection. You'll have to play with it a bit but the basic idea is to slide the tool under the fuel line connection releasing the internal spring and it'll pop apart. This is not fun since there is little room and you are on your back. The input side of the filter uses a different connector. It has a red plastic clip that needs to be undone. It's similar to the plug wire guides. I used nothing more than my hands. Once open gently push the 2 ends up to release the filter. It's kinda like a upside down U.

You know those black caps that are on the end of your new filter? They're great for capping the old filter while your working on it.

Ford Tool

#7 remove filter from bracket

Don't try pulling it out - that sucker is really in there. I used a rubber mallet to tap the filter out.

REMEMBER THIS IS A GAS FILTER - DON'T USE A REGULAR HAMMER!!! Use a block of wood if you have to.

#8 install new filter.

I put a light coating of grease on the new filter to help slide it back in. Should help with removal next time too. Make sure you have the filter in the right direction.

Filter in bracket

Reattach fuel lines. No biggie here - just reverse of removal.

Now is a good time for anti-seize on the bolts for next time.

Put the cover and heat shield back on.

Replace relay

Start truck and check for leaks.

Now here's the kicker. The truck ran beautifully! I only let it run long enough to check for leaks but there were no shakes!

Then I did what I always do to feel better about the busted knuckles and hard work I just put in - I poured the contents into a water bottle...

Damn! That's nasty! Remember I've only got 29k on my girl. How many do you have and when was the last filter change?? Go out and do it now!

The fault will be in the wiring but could be anywhere from the fuse board onwards. The bulb failure light system works by comparing to indentical systems, in this case the right & left brake lights. If the electrical current flowing to each build is significantly different the waring light comes on , ie one light is working and the other is not. If problem affects both lights this will not trigger the warning as the current to both lights is the same, zero.

Check the fuse, the wiring between the fuse board, actuation switch and bulb failure unit and bulb failure unit its self. The build failure unit is actually a set of detectors in one unit so it is possible that the brake circuit part has a fault while the rest continues to work normally.

david@roulson.freeserve.co.UK

Another Idea: I fixed that problem by removing the orange colored sensor (from the relay box) to diagnose it. I took it apart (probably needlessly) but realized that the pins had invisible non-conductive corrosion on them so I sanded the pins. Then the brakes work. So just sand the pins and replace the sensor. No need to disassemble as I did.

The 2000 Ford Explorer owners manual shows ( 5 W - 30 ) for all available engines

You might have installed the starter with the wrong size sledge hammer. Actually I would start with the basics and check for a blown fuse. What lights do you refer to? Inside, outside or trouble lights? All lights? A word of caution: Sometimes with auto repair you can't assume that Action A caused Problem B.

In Response To My Own Question: I finally figured it out ... the starter's main post had more wires on it than I realized at the time, ( I didn't take them off originally). I found that the light circuit went thru the starter post, and when attached to the ground terminals instead of the battery post on the solenoid I had "NO LIGHTS".

Thanks for trying, someone in the future.

1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8

Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front

For a 2000 Ford Explorer :

With engine oil filter change :

( for all engines )

* 4.7 litres / 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30

"http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_the_fuel_filter_on_a_2002_Ford_Explorer"

On a 1998 Ford Explorer ( like my 1995 )

Either your engine coolant temperature is too high , your engine oil pressure

is too low , or your fuel gauge is at or near empty ( any of those 3 things will

turn on the " check gage " warning light )

you might have the child safety locks activated

Should be peel off type
Remove wheels
Remove caliper mounting bolts
Slide caliper off rotor
Rotor should slide off hub

No you don't. But you might want to replace the lower bushing also since you will be half way their. Also it is easier because you have to grind off the rivets to get the ball joint off the control arm. Most garages replace the control arm because labor rates compared to the cost of a new control is less expensive for the garage and customer. Also the liablity of the new ball joint has to be bolted on and not riveted as factory unit.

Automotive turn signals, commonly refered to as "blinkers", are not actually fuse protected. The gentle "plink-plink" you hear while waiting to make a left turn across four lanes of five o'clock traffic comes from the turn signal flasher. The flasher, usually located adjacent or inside the vehicles fuse box, is a simple electric relay. Looks much like a little bitty aluminum can. When it fails, the turn signals do not work. The relay serves as a fusible link in the turn signal system. If you still have the vehicle owner's manual, it will probably tell you the exact location and replacement part number for the relay. It's a simple "pull it out, plug in the new" exchange. No manual? Visit your local auto parts house and tell them what kind of car you have. A few bucks later and you're back to that happy "plinkety-plink-plink".

Tighten every other lug nut in 2 steps

1st just hand tight then to 100 ft. lbs.

^^^

a hundred foot lbs? do u plan on snapping studs? or bending rims? jesus its only like 50 pounds

^^^

the correct answer to the question is

5x114.3

the question has nothing to do with how to tighten or put on lugnuts ...

Have you upgraded any lights to LEDs? This answer can apply to any car with this problem but only if LED lights are used.

This can be caused by LED 1157 tail/brake combo lights. The problem is that the tail and brake lights are not always as isolated as they should be.

When the brake lights are powered on the tail light terminal becomes live. This voltage will power up the park light circuit ie. tail lights, front park lights and instrument panel.

The "short" comes after the LED resistors in the 1157 therefore the leaked current is low and will not usually cause any problems unless you have LED's throughout the park light circuit, there is insufficient current to turn on standard light bulbs.

Solution is a diode fitted in line on the tail light wires to the 1157s allowing current into the 1157 but not out.

I'm not sure this will help but I have 1998 XLT that had the same no brake light issue. When I adjusted the tilt steering the lights started working. The problem I found was in the main light harness coming from the steering column. When the steering was tilted down the wire that controlls the tail lamps would short to ground. I actually had to unwrap the harness and repair the wire to resolve this issue.

According to the owner's manual , the wrench light is for the electronic throttle control . It illuminates when the engine has defaulted to a " limp home " operation . REPORT THE FAULT TO A DEALER AT THE EARLIEST OPPORTUNITY (Helpfull)

The gas tank on the 2014 Ford Explorer holds 18.6 gal..

When you open the hood you should see a yellow handle about two inches long directly in front of you. On the car that I looked at, it is just to the left of the farthest cylinder plug on the right.