Ford Explorer

Buy the assembly from the dealer, and,The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

the Horns (there are two)are located behind the parking light lens areas. to access, crawl under the front and pull down the tar paper seal at each corner and look up. you may need to only remove the single power wire at the tab at each horn, sand paper the tab and reconnect. that's what I did to mine - horns were fine - contacts were just corroded.

Remove:

Block opposite wheel, Jack up the side to exchange first, Remove rear tire, Remove 2 10mm bolts from Caliper, lift Caliper from bottom up to pull from Rotor, Remove outside pad first, pull inside pad out next (NOTE: if inside pad wont come out for clearance reasons remove Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap, put the Old Outside Pad against the Cylinder then use a Clamp to push the Cylinder in SLOWLY. Remove the Clamp, Old Outside Pad and the Inside Pad should have clearance to pull out.

Install:

Install Inside Pad first hooks on the ends up, then slide the Outside Pad into position, rotate the Caliper toward the Roter and the top hooks in first, slide the Roter in place and replace the two 10mm bolts. Replace the tire, lower the jack, replace the Brake Fluid Cap, start the vehicle and pump the Brakes a few times.

You should be set. That's all.....

JR Bush

California

Tell me if just one window or all of them quit working

The turn indicator flasher is actually a relay and for the 2000 up years its under the dash, to the left of the instrument panel. If you could look straight up, it will be within inches of the outside and you almost need to be an acrobat to change it. If you are towing things often, you may want to upgrade to a higher rated amp. From the factory, this is Green. It should be in the fuse box in the 2000 models. On 2001 and newer, it is under the driver's side dash, just above the data link connector. UNDER THE LEFT END OF INSTRUMENT PANEL, IN THE FUSE BLOCK, ON THE BACK OF JUNCTION BLOCK.

Here's a copy of the invoice, I can't make sense of what's written about the codes.

KOEO (Key On Engine Off) 232, Primary coil circuit failure. 341, Octane jumper installed. This is to let you know Octane booster was installed.

KOER (Key On Engine Running) 411 and 412, Idle speed system not controlling idle speed correctly.

Hard job requiring refrigerant recovery system. TAke it to a garage.

== == Place SAAB in reverse gear to remove the key easily. The SAAB must be in reverse before you can remove the key, otherwise the battery will drain. It's a manufacture design.

REPAIRS BELOW, IF NEEDED:

Though you don't specify, it will be presumed that the key was inserted into the ignition switch and now will not withdraw. There were probably plenty of signs that this was imminent, such as difficulty inserting the key or the switch sticking in the START position. This is because dirt or sticky liquids often fall into the switch due to its location between the seats. (A safety feature, as the key will not jam into the driver's knee in a severe accident.) OTOH, the switch may have just worn out, as a 19 year old car is considered ancient by most terms. (I drive a 1987 Saab 900 with only 196K mi, and it runs better than most cars half its age.) First try squirting a penetrating oil such as Liquid Wrench or WD-40 into the key slot. This may free up the mechanism enough to withdraw the key. If that doesn't work, you will need to remove the center console. Details may be found in any good Saab 900 manual, but in brief: 1) Remove the driver's seat (may need an Allen-head wrench).

2) Remove any screws/bolts holding the shifting machanism into place.

3) Using the special 3-lobed socket, remove the 3-sided nuts that hold the metal box that contains the ignition switch.

4) Clean or replace the old switch.

5) Reassemble.

Form Haynes Repair Manual #36071 4.0 SOHC V6 engine: install the bolts and tighten them finger-tight. torque to 89 inch-lbs.starting with the center bolts and working toward the ends. 4.0 pushrod V6 engine: bolt/tightening pattern is: top 4 bolts = 3,5,7,2; bottom 4 bolts = 1,6,8,4. Install the bolts and tighten them finger-tight and torque in 4 steps according to the pattern mentioned: step 1: 36 in-lbs; step 2: 72 in-lbs; step 3: 120 in-lbs; step 4: 144 in-lbs. (it is a cross-type pattern starting with the outside corners and working toward the center. BOLT LOCATIONS FOR TIGHTENING SEQUENCE FOR 4.0 PUSHROD 6V: TOP BOLTS 3 5 7 2 INTAKE MANIFOLD BOTTOM BOLTS 1 6 8 4 Hope this diagram for pushrod engine intake manifold helps.

The Explorer could have a stuck open thermostat. The thermostat needs to close until the engine gets up to operating temperature to make the system heat properly.

Check the fuse, bulbs/assy., and wiring another thing to check is where the bulbs connect. sometimes like my 94 one of the connectors in the bulb housing was broken. also there is a brake light sensor on the brake petal that is turned on when you depress the brake. usually near the top of the brake petal

You leave a mess everywhere you park,

When the fluid level drops below the add line, the transmission will not perform correctly,

Continued use after the fluid level has dropped below the add line will shorten the life span of the transmission,

It has made our world more revealing and interesting plus it caused students in school and University to be able to study and make a difference in their life with a job.If there was no computers today i wouldn't be writing this now .

If yes, then you are COOL*

*this includes NERDS!

bye.. =)

There isn't exactly a way! However, there are some people who have special abilities to see into the future, including visions and dreams.

Unfortunately, for the rest of us, seeing into the future isn't a possibility!

No one really knows. In the bible it says that the world will end because of the chaos and corruption And Astronomers believe that it will end at 2012. Even though it seems like nonsense it isn't. 1995 was a guess out of nowhere. Then 2000 was someone trying to scare everyone of the new millennium. But astronomers can see into space and the stars and see that something is going terribly wrong. But I dont believe it will be exactly 2012. But there are 365 days in a year so who knows?

what does this code mean and where is located at.

under the passenger side of the dash board, remove the plastic insert up on top mate for the secondary fusebox

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagrams ) can be viewed online

I have a 1995 Ford Explorer XLT - originally the recommended inflation pressure was 26 PSI - I received a revised sticker recommending 30 PSI ( cold ) for recommended Firestone tires . I had my Firestone ATX tires replaced for free under the recall with Michelin LTX all terrain tires ( P235/75R15 ) and I have been running 29 or 30 PSI in the Michelins for over 7 years now and if anything it's the inside and outside edges that are wearing quicker than the center of the tread so that works for me

I would say you have low oil pressure. Change the oil and filter. Use 5w20 oil or 5w30 whichever your owner's manual lists, and install a quality filter such as Motorcraft, Purolator, or Wix. Do not use any other weight oil. If the oil pressure is still low stop driving the vehicle and seek professional help.

The year, make, model, engine and symptoms info would help.

fuse 10 on the fuse pannel it is a 7.5 amp fuse in the dash (the one covered by the door) open door and pry off the cover, is a tight fit but I haven't broken it yet. Note: this fuse will continue to blow until you find the short I am still triing to find the cause of mine"

Which Indicator?

Call a locksmith. There is no way to retrieve the code from outside.

The brake warning light comes on in your dash if the emergency brake is on or the

brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder in your engine compartment is LOW