Ford Probe

most people run into the problem a getting a belt but then think that the belt is too big for the pulley system. You need to look at it and see where it needs to go. if a pulley has groves on it then the grooved Sid of the belt lays in the grooves. There are also smooth pulleys. These are where you adjust the tension of the belt and so you can get the belt on. there should be 2 smooth one on the probe but only one moves and that should be the top one. You will need a rachet with I believe a 3/4" head to put in to the square hole in the metal arm that connects to the tension pulley. perferably a tourqe rachet. You'll need to find the proper tension somewhere else though. But follow the tension pulley arm up to where it is mounted to the engine. There will be a single bolt that you'll need to loosen, do not take it out just loosen it, then you will be able to move the tension pulley enough to fit the belt on. After the belt is on make sure that you have ran it properly. To do this just follow the belt around and make sure that there is no contact of any surface to the belt besides the pulleys. after that is done take the 3/4" rachet and place it into the arm to tighten the tension pulley. Some people might need an extra person for this especially if this is a first for you. One to adjust the tension and the other to tighten the nut on the mounting bracket.

between 7-8psi.

Could be the O2 sensor, air filter is clogged, fuel filter, filling your tires up with enough air, ECM, EGR. Basically there are lots of things.

My experiences are that the O2 sensor kills your gas mileage.

No offense but if you don't know how to do it don't" You will need special tools and special equipment to be able to do it.

The meter leads are narrow enough to fit into the connector beside the wire and make contact with the metal terminal inside. The technique is called back probing because you are probing the connector from the back. You must use this back probing technique to perform all the following measurements.

From- Ratan Banik(Khowai, Tripura).

I have the four cylinder 2.0. First, I had to learn what the firing order of the enging is. My distributor has the numbers on it. They are very small but they are there. Hope that helps. Read through these questions and answers, I believe someone has the answer for the firing order. As far as the distributor goes. Take it to a parts store for some free advice or even search the internet for pictures of probes and may be they will help I just recently replaced my distributor and ignition wires on my probe GT. What you need to know is that when looking at the engine from the front of the car, the back left is 1, front(of the car) left is 2, back middle is 3, front middle is 4, back right is 5, front right is 6. After you know the numbers of each, you should be able to easily match that up to the numbers of your distributor. If not the numbers go as follows: when looking at the distributor cap from the drivers side of the car, going in a clockwise direction from the top left the wires should be plugged in like this: wire 5, wire 4, wire 6, wire 3, wire 2, wire 1. Hopefully this clarifies everything

The first sign that your engine has thrown a rod is a knocking sound that comes from the engine when it runs. if you pay close attention, you will notice that the knocking sound is rhythmic and increases or decreases in accordance with the engine's revolution per minute (RPM).

Hi, theres a very high probability that you have an overhead cam engine in which there are no "Lifters" parsay, the proper nomenclature would be valve lash adjusters. same concept slightly different. this is not the easiest of jobs and should only be done if you have an understanding of cars/engines. this job can get expensive fast!! if you have alot of valve noise there can be more issues than just the lifters, cam followers are basicly rocker arms and wear out after a while making this valve noise, also given the followers are worn down your cam is probably shot too... but at any rate this will at least get you cranking... first step to gain access to the valve cover and remove it. inspect the top of the engine very well and replace cam and followers as required. a factory manual will help you greatly in this job and its only about 15 dollars. to remove the followers youll need a lifter tool that's similar to a prybar to depress the lifter so you can remove the followers.. after the followers removed the lifter can be removed easily. you will need to rotate the engine to get each cylinder to is "compression" stroke where both intake and exhaust valves are completely closed.. DO NOT use the starter to rotate the engine use a ratchet and a socket to turn it... then reinstall is basically backwards good luck

why would you want too

im sure this is on the clutch pedal itself.

Did you reset the fuel pump relay? Do you mean check the cutoff switch in the rear hatch? Yes, it's not popped up. I also tried pulling out the harness and jumping the connections with a paperclip. This shuts off the cutout light on the dash but the car still won't start. I checked spark, gapped the plugs, changed the fuel filter and PCV valve. Still no-go. I think it's an electrical issue but I'm not sure what! I checked all the fuses in the car, none seem to be blown, checked the two under the rear seat as well. Fuel pump seems to work when I turn the ignition to "on" as I can hear it click and whir up.

low on coolent

check all of the fuses.if they are ok, check the bulbs. If ok, have the headlight switch checked out. My dad has a 95 contour that had the same problem the tail lights and interior lights went out. There was some switch( I believe under the dash) that controled it, that had to be replaced by ford. I found this question actually looking for it because I had the same problem with my 93 Ford Probe. I tried everything. Changed fuses in car, checked bulbs, checked wiring, changed the brake light switch. Nothing worked. Finally figured out it was VERY simple problem!!! It was a fuse under the hood. There's a fuse box under there that I didn't even know of for a while. When I changed it I didn't even know if that was it and IT WAS. Now my dashlights and tail lights work. GOOD LUCK!!

Most likely located in a housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator Remove housing making note how thermostat is installed clean both surfaces Install new thermostat and gasket Tighten housing securely and evenly Re-fill radiator slowly to prevent an "airlock" Start vehicle and check for leaks Bring up to normal operating temperature with heater on Re-check coolant level

I have a 97 Ford probe and when I had to replace my alternator... I had to pulled the passenger tire off and pull the whole assembly apart so I could get the alternator.. There are 2 bolts to loosen up and pull the belt out slide the alternator down by the exhaust and pull it out by the CV axle

Front seating area, driver side, behind dash, driver side of steering column, mounted in relay block

Yes with modification

take your foot off the gas!

OBD1 code 41 = solenoid valve, vehicle speed control

The simple answer is: failure of the cooling system or one of its parts.

Start by checking to see if you have enough coolant in the system. If it is leaking out, fix the leak. Check the water pump- it should have a "weep hole" next to the shaft. If there is coolant coming from the weep hole, the pump needs to be replaced. If the coolant is going somewhere other than on the ground, look for white smoke at the exhaust pipe- that's a sign of coolant getting into the cylinders, meaning cracked block, blown head gasket, or some other engine failure.

Check your fans. They should turn on if you lift the connector from the temperature sensor. No fans means no cooling at low speeds.

Start it up cold and check the hoses on the radiator. They should get warm after a few minutes, indicating that your thermostat is opening up and the water pump is working. If they stay cold, replace the thermostat (it's cheap), and try again.

If everything is working, have the radiator and cooling system flushed and pressure tested.

"Where is the crankshaft position sensor on a 96 ford probe SE?"

From what I understand is the boost sensor (little black box with a vac line and a 3 wire connector on it 96 pgt) monitors air pressure inside the intake manifold in order to for the computer to adjust for correct air/fuel ratios. The boost sensor is one of many sensors in the car that work together to deliver the most efficient fuel delivery.