Ford Windstar GL

well if something is leaking and your engine is overheating i assume coolant is leaking from your car. that in a matter of speaking is a good thing since you know what the problem is, now you have to find the leak, you could visually look and see were the leak is, however the best way would be to pressure test the cooling system and find the leak that way, luckily you have a very simply engine and repairs are done very easily, once you find the leak, like a hose or radiator, or what ever it is, then the engine is set up simply enough that any mechanically inclined person should be able to figure out how to remove and replace defective part. fill up cooling system and bleed system. pressure check again to verify no leaks are present. test drive and verify proper driving operation. good luck..

Just in case this is intended to find the notorious isolator bolts, that cause the 171 and 174 trouble codes and intake manifold vacuum leaks... See "Related Questions" below

It is intentional, it is called high idle. It helps warm the engine to proper operating temperature.

If you have the proper tools you can change it in about 1.5 hours or less.

The chime module is located underneath the left side of the dash right abve the fuse box.

attached to the lower intake manifold on the belt side usually little plastic bushings are broken on those

HowStuffWorks has a great explanation of power window mechanical and electrical systems, complete with animated illustrations, at http://auto.howstuffworks.com/power-window.htm

If you have the 3.3 liter, pop the hood and it will be located on the transmission on the passengers side. Look for a little pigtail running from the transmission. There it is.

you must purge th system you have a air lock allow the vecile to run with the rad cap off till it get warm the shut it down till it cools add collant you may have to do this a few times........rosdale joe The way I did it was to fill up my radiator, then turn the car on. When its getting to the normal temperature is when it starts to pour water to the reservoir.... at this point you turn your heater on on high and the neddle to the hot possition... this should bleed the cooling system. Also check the preasure on you radiator cap.... the [problem on my car was the radiator cap.

Reverse backwards and hit a boulder.. that thing will rip right off!

You can get them from the dealer as OEM, NAPA, Etc can order.

If you are familiar with body work on a car, it is a d-i-y but the local body shop would be the best one to go to. Have to take the inside door panel off, maybe pop a clip or two, change out the electrical unit. We have done 3 different windows on different Ford Aerostars. Pretty much all the same. Takes about 30 minutes tops if all goes right.

1) Take of the wheel 2) Remove the brake pads (if Bendix calipers, remove the small spring and bar fitted to the top edge of the pads)
3) If there are two screws attaching the disc to the hub these need to be removed
4) The discs should now be loose and can be removed from the hub without removing the calipers.


Hope this helps

If the speed sensor is for an Anti-lock braking issue, you will normally find 1 at each wheel (accessible when the wheel is removed). Another location would be on the transmission. How about where on the transmission? Like on the bottom behind the exhaust pipe!

On a 2002 Ford Windstar , 3.8 liter V6 engine :

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of vehicle > driver

The air intake for interior, aka 'cabin' heating & cooling, is located in the engine compartment. This air intake has a filter on it.

Look for a 10" long by 1.5" tall cover in the plastic cover / trim / housing, just underneath or engine-side of the passenger wiperblade.

Remove the cover and the filter is located just inside.

your engine is "missing" suspect problem in ignition or vacuum systems. check plugs,wires,timing, possible vacuum leak look for broken or cracked hoses. also check for clogged fuel filter, cracked distributor cap, and faulty egr valve

The key here is that each warning light is trying to tell you 2 different things. They are not likely to be related to each other.

Research each light separately.

NOTE: Fix the *cause* of the trouble codes and the lights will turn themselves off.

See "Related Questions" below for more about check engine lights & Windstar ABS systems

The manuel says you have to pull the motor. The timing chain cover can be removed without removing the motor,but its alot of work. You have to remove the passenger side frnt wheel to get access to some of the lower bolts. Remove the serpentine belt and the harmonic balancer and crank shaft drive pully.You will have to remove the camshaft position sensor.Take a scribe and mark the casting and timing chain cover so it can be properly aligned for reinstallation.Remove the retaining nut to the camshaft position sensor and remove carefully. Remove all the nuts and bolts that will clear the frame rail on the timing chain cover and water pump. The water pump will have to be removed. In order to remove the water pump the the front motor mount will have to be released and the motor raised . Use a block of wood on a hydralic jack and place on the oil pan. Slowly jack the motor up until the motor will go up no further.The water pump and pulley can now be removed. Make sure the pulley is free from the water pump before trying to remove. There should be just 4 studs coming out on the engine block through the timing chain cover. Now is the tricky part. Use a pair of visecrips to turn out the studs. Be very careful and take your time when removing. You might have to re-tap the studs before replacing them. Once you get all the studs removed gently pull the timing chain cover away from the engine block . It will take some work, you will have to work the timing chain coverfree and then pull it down and out between the frame rail and the lower contol arm on the suspension. Congradulations you have removed the timing chain cover and hopefully no bolts have broke or nuckles have been busted. Reassemble in reverse order. Make to pack the oil pump gears with grease before reinstallation.

This is a very difficult job and dangerous at times. If you do not have the proper equipment or training "do not attempt this at all".

Alot of work is right! I completed the timing cover gaset replacement over the weekend two full days! I'm sore! Take your time, use plasic bags to hold the bolts, parts, etc. for each of the components you need to remove. In order to remove the harmonic balancer you will need a puller available at Sears or any autoparts store ($20). You will also need to lock the engine so the crank doesn't turn while you remove the retaining bolt on the crane pully. I locked the engine by pulling the starter and wedging a tire iron between the flywheel and the casing. Major torque is need to remove the crank bolt. Use a cheater bar extension to your strong arm or rachet. Also, I used the two nut method to remove the studs that go through the timing cover. Simply screw one nut on to the stud until you are close to bottom of the threads. Then screw a second nut on to the stud until it is back to back with the first nut. Tighten the two nuts against each other. Now you should be able to back out (loosen) the stud by turning the first nut counter-clockwise. I also found that dropping the oil pan slightly helped to break the seal between the oil pan and the timing cover. You don't have to completely remove the pan, just loosen all the oil pan bolts about an 1/8 of an inch so it can drop down just a little. Also, There is a bolt behind the power steering pump pulley that is powered by the serpentine belt. You have to slide a 15mm in between the pulley and the pump and have fun turning 1/4 at a time :).

First if u you can get engine to run long enough, get a spray bottle with water and apply light mist around coils and wires. At night time you should see small electrical sparks around area if there is bad part, also see if engine stalls or gets worse, if not, shut off engine and check wiring harness connections. If that doesn't help, remove coils in top on engine, one coil supplies spark for 2 adjacent cylinders, check for cracks in coils, bad wires or loose connectors, maybe even breaks in spark plug wires. Check for water or rust down on spark plug holes. Likely your just over due for changing the spark plugs, always use new plugs from your Toyota dealer. I that doesn't cure problem, try putting some fuel line antifreeze in next time you fuel up, also try a different supplier. Can also check air filter to see if its plugged. also can replace fuel filter, basic maintence goes a long way. Not scare you but by now if the problem isn't cured there may be an injector or internal engine problem, bring it to your favoite mechanic to check it out... First if u you can get engine to run long enough, get a spray bottle with water and apply light mist around coils and wires. At night time you should see small electrical sparks around area if there is bad part, also see if engine stalls or gets worse, if not, shut off engine and check wiring harness connections. If that doesn't help, remove coils in top on engine, one coil supplies spark for 2 adjacent cylinders, check for cracks in coils, bad wires or loose connectors, maybe even breaks in spark plug wires. Check for water or rust down on spark plug holes. Likely your just over due for changing the spark plugs, always use new plugs from your Toyota dealer. I that doesn't cure problem, try putting some fuel line antifreeze in next time you fuel up, also try a different supplier. Can also check air filter to see if its plugged. also can replace fuel filter, basic maintence goes a long way. Not scare you but by now if the problem isn't cured there may be an injector or internal engine problem, bring it to your favoite mechanic to check it out... First if u you can get engine to run long enough, get a spray bottle with water and apply light mist around coils and wires. At night time you should see small electrical sparks around area if there is bad part, also see if engine stalls or gets worse, if not, shut off engine and check wiring harness connections. If that doesn't help, remove coils in top on engine, one coil supplies spark for 2 adjacent cylinders, check for cracks in coils, bad wires or loose connectors, maybe even breaks in spark plug wires. Check for water or rust down on spark plug holes. Likely your just over due for changing the spark plugs, always use new plugs from your Toyota dealer. I that doesn't cure problem, try putting some fuel line antifreeze in next time you fuel up, also try a different supplier. Can also check air filter to see if its plugged. also can replace fuel filter, basic maintence goes a long way. Not scare you but by now if the problem isn't cured there may be an injector or internal engine problem, bring it to your favoite mechanic to check it out...

Since your question does not indicate that the other "running" lights are not working, I suspect that they are working. Since the license plate light does NOT have it's own dedicated circuit, and therefore it's own fuse, it is not a blown fuse. IF all other rear lights, are working, then the problem is limited to the bulb SOCKET or the hot wire to it. That wire is relatively short, in that it is connected to the tail light wiring in the trunk area near one of the tail light assemblies. I can think of three possibilities that would cause the lcense plate lamp circuit to be "open:" 1. Somehow, the wire got cut or broken. 2. A connector has become disconnected. 3. Water has gotten into a connector, bulb socket, or ground connection, causing corrosion which impedes the flow of electrical current.

The oil levels are just at the point of triggering the warning light.

It's time for more, or more likely, time for an oil change.

See "Related Questions" below for more

Auto-choke is stuck open

As you are looking under the hood the PCV valve is inline in hoses between the intake manifold tubes (Aluminum) right in front about center and the egr bolts onto the head (As you are looking at it) right side towards the back.

I have a 2000 that i have to replace and my book says you can buy the book taht will tell you how to do it from Auto Zone for $20 dollars. Put the car up on jack stands, remove both front tires, remove the 4 bolts from the pinch point, there are two on each side, remove the 2 bolt for the rear sub-frame , put a jack under the sub-frame before you remove those bolts, once you have those bolts remove lower the rear sub-frame remove the two bolt from the end of the sway bar 1 bolt on each side on each side. then remove the sway bar, pull it back and tip it down and pull out one side of the wheel well.

It depends on what components need to be repaired or replaced. Most car dealers, brake specialists and repair shops will be happy to give you a free estimate.

Fortunately, aftermarket or remanufactured brake parts for many vintage Mercedes cars are surprisingly reasonable in price -- you can buy a set of 1983 brake pads for less than $10, for example. If you want original Mercedes parts, expect to pay a lot more.