Fuel and Engines

It sounds like there may be some carbon in the combustion chambers causing pre-ignition and run on after shutdown. Purchase a container of engine combustion chamber cleaner with Techron in it. Follow the directions. You add it to your fuel tank. It cleans the fuel system and combustion chambers of deposits. By reducing deposits you reduce the chance of engine run on after ignition shutdown. Also you can try a tank of premium fuel. If the engine stops properly that's another indication of deposits.

ANSWER--- Check the timing

FROM EXPERIENCE , YOU WILL FEEL REALLY LIGHT HEADED , SICK TO THE STOMACH AND YOU START THROWING UP BLOOD.

ECM (engine control module) This is the brain of your vehicle. It takes in information from various sensors then sends out signals to items such as fuel injectors and timing to keep the engine running at its best for performance and fuel economy.

If a starter is able to crank the engine but it won't start you usually have either an electrical or fuel problem. It's also remotely possibly that it's compression. If an engine has proper fuel, spark and compression, it will start when you crank it. So your challange is to find out which part isn't working right. Start with fuel. Spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while someone tries to start the engine. If it starts briefly when you're spraying starting fluid, you probably have a fuel delivery problem. That could be injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, fuse... who knows what until you check into it. If it doesn't start with starting fluid, check the spark. Pull a plug wire and attach it to a spare sparkplug and set the plug on a solid metal part of the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch the plug. If you have a good spark, it might just be out of timing. In any case, you'll need to start isolating the problem. Find out which part isn't working then you'll know what to replace/repair.

Those are the lifters that are making the noise. It won't hurt the car, it's just annoying. Mine does it.

Yo Can just seafoam it, alot of times its actually a build up of carbon in the valves and combustion chamber, and the noise just gets echoed by the lifters and valvetrain other parts. just be very careful with the seafoam if you do it wrong and suck in too much you can hydro lock your motor(liquids dont compress so it would be like trying to close a door with a person standin in the way, something is gonna break)

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3hp with 150lbs. rider 25mph. 6hp 35mph with 150lbs rider 120lbs. gocart balloon tires hard geared right with centrifical clutch

"43cc" is not a speed - sounds like the size of a small engine, but size does NOT define it's speed or horsepower.

check for spark first by holding a plug lead end 1/4 inch away from an earth crank engine , you should feel and see a blue spark. if ok ,remove plugs.itll dry itseft out in half an hour. refit plugs and try again..

To start a flooded engine put the accerlator on the floor do NT pump, and start kicking it over. if it gives you a realy hard time and to save your battery, give it a rest for 10 minutes then try again.

Reman or used engine. You can rebuild the lower end of the engine, but it seems like an engine that has cancer. That is, shortly after doing the lower end, the upper starts with problems. Just from what I have seen. Would appreciate any info anyone else has.

The best bet is usually a used engine for cost effectivness and down time concerns. Not much rebuilding happening at the dealership level, even for warranty repairs.

Check the battery first. Do your interior lights come on ? Check your battery cables . If they are rusty or have some white corrosion on them, clean them with a wire brush and reattach them. You could have a blocked fuel line. There are bunches of things.

Many factors play into this equation. How complete is it? Does it have any compression ? How about spark? A running example could easily fetch three hundred dollars or more, in my estimation. Additional considerations include modification to the intake and exhaust ports, size of the cylinder bore, condition of the cylinder bore, modifications to the cylinder walls (eg window ports), bent or broken fins on the head and around the exhaust port, damage to the cooling fins, damage to the crank etc., etc. From my experience a core motor (a good basis for a rebuild) will run you anywhere from $100 to $300 depending on condition. Then figure another $200-$400 to replace seals and gaskets, bearings, piston and rings, over-bore/hone the cylinder, replace the needle bearings in the crank and rebuild the carb.

A NOS (New Old Stock) motor will run anywhere from $600-$900

In most cases is is blown head gasket. The engine suckes air through the hole in the gasket and sends it to cooling system. You never know how long it gonna last.

Can also be caused by a defective pressure relief valve in the coolant reservoir cap. If it is the head gasket, you may also find you can smell combustion gases in the coolant. These won't smell the same as the exhaust gas though as the exhaust has been through the catalytic converter. If changing the cap fails to cure the problem, disconnect and isolate the ht leads or coil low tension wires and remove the pressure cap from the coolant tank. Get someone to turn the engine over on the starter motor while you look into the tank. If you see bubbles emerging in the coolant, it's probably the head gasket.

And a worse case scenario, a cracked head is possible.

the rings kind of seal in the sides of the piston with the cylinder wall. When a compression test is done the air is escaping between the piston and the cylinder where the good ring would normally seal. If you are getting low compression it is more likely the valves

The relay and fuse are probably on the firewall, under the hood. Occasionally GM puts it behind a plastic cover. Fuel pump gets 12 volts, but it is turned off once the pressure is built and if the computer determines that the engine isn't running within a few seconds.

A cracked or broken piston will cause a loss of compression, as will cracked or broken rings. The failure of a head gasket will also cause a loss of compression, as will broken, cracked or badly worn valves or valve seats. A crack in the cylinder itself (either the sleeve or the engine block), or a crack in the head itself will cause a loss of compression. A problem with the plug threads or the threads in the head (for engines that have plugs) can cause loss of compression, and injectors (for engines that have them) can leak around the threads, either because the injector threads or the threads in the head have been damaged.

Ringo Starr was the Beatle that did some of the voices on Thomas the Tank Engine.

There are 2 problems listed but only one most important so far. The engine can't start until it gets turned over by the starter. You have to have a hot battery, good battery cable connections, a good starter relay and a electrical circuit from the inginion switch and other circuits to the relay.

losing coolant from no apparent hose or fitting Overheating You might be able to see the crack and sometimes the cracks arent visable by our eye. your over flow container will be bubbling even when you first shut the veichle off. you will notice thick white smoke pouring out your tail pipe. this is caused by either a cracked head, cracked block, blown head gasket and or a cracked intake plenum. if you take the head/s off of the engine block check very closely for cracks on the head and examine the gaskets for missing peices of cracks, to the same inside the cylinder walls. if you canot see cracks on the head/s take it to you nearest machine shop and they wil inspect them for you. if you do not see cracks in the cylinder walls you have a couple of options, A: turn the crank shaft manually so the pistons will move so you can see the rest of the cylinder walls B: drop the oil pan and remove the pistons from the crank shaft so the entire cylinder wall will be exposed, but BE CAREFULL!!! If you must remove the distrubutor for any reason make sure you mark where the harmonic balance was or you will mess up your timming. C: take the block into a machine shop and have them "magnafuxed" the block, this will tell them exactly where the crack is. Good luck!

the igniter in the distributor, they are aften going bad in hondas, and causes a huge head ache. This is what I've done so far., This happens intermittently. It used to happen during the summer months but now even during the winter months it's been happening more frequently. Here's what i replaced so far. First : Main relay, Ign Coil, Dist Cap, Rotor, Plug wires, Spark Plugs. It happened 2 more times after the items above were replaced. Next items I replaced is below. Fuel Pump Fuel strainer Fuel filter Note each time this happens the car starts the next day or two and happens again weeks or a month later . I don't know what else to check. If anyone have any ideas please let me know. Thanks

It really hurts your truck to run it out of diesel fuel. But if you do find the need to do so, lets take these steps every time this happens. 1st always keep about a 1 galon gas can full of diesel fuel if you like doing this often. Your truck has a large fuel filter that looks like a really big oil filter near the intake lines to the intake manifold. when you fun the fuel dry, this huge filter becomes empty and until it is compleatly full again, all your engine will do is suck air. If there is any air what so ever in this filter the engine will take a while to start running again and with deal damage to the engine. first take off the filter, fill the filter half full of diesel and swish it around a little, continue filling the filter until it over flows. being careful not to spill anymore, screw the filter back into place. And don't let it happen again, you'll thank me when you don't have to replace that 9 thousand dollar engine of yours.

Your situation is called an airlock, as expected a diesel engine will not run on air. If there is air anywhere in your fuel system it will be difficult or impossible to start the engine. There are different procedures for different engines. Read your manual. A generalized procedure is to fill the tank with fuel, fill your fuel filter if possible. Crank the engine, some engines have an air bleeder, and some you will have to crack an injector line to let air escape (you should see some fuel weep out). Once you get a cylinder firing let the engine run until it smooths out.

DO NOT try and try again. This leads to a dead battery and/or flooded engine.

Instead, try lightly tapping the accelerator pedal ONCE while cranking the engine. If that doesn't work:

Something is broken. Get it to a mechanic who can understand what is wrong.

Some symptoms of a blown head gasket are white smoke out the exhaust, using coolant, blue smoke out exhaust, using alot of oil, running crappy and overall sputtering. Otherwise checking cylinder compression would also indicate this.

If you are lucky the engine stalls. If you are unlucky the gasoline detonates, bending rods, blowing head gaskets, breaking pistons, etc. The injection system may also suffer.