Honda Civic CX

Between 180 and 210 degrees. It is safe to operate an engine normally above about 112 degrees. Before it gets to that temperature you should be soft on the accelerator. The red zone on the temperature gauge is usually around 240-245 or so. Getting the engine that hot can be harmful to it.

This information is not available to the general public, I suspect.

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NYP on a NJ or NY license plate stands for New York Press. the vehicles owner is likely employed by a radio, TV, or newspaper in New York.

Can be a dead cell in the battery which means it must be replaced. Can also be something is on pulling power from the battery. Glove box, interior, under-hood, or trunk light. Can also be the alternator is defective.

IN BLDC OPERATING MOTORS i.e. FAN IN THE CPU,ADC

Yes.

The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank. Just a side note, if the vehicle appears to be experiencing a fuel pump problem (hesitation, hard starting - especially in hot weather) - another possible problem is the fuel pump ("main") relay. This relay is a common problem, which if bad, will produce symptoms that mimic a bad fuel pump. The relay is located under the dashboard on the driver's side.

it's below the steering wheel under the panel buried deep dow.

Just had the batteries on my 2003 Civic Hybrid replaced. (April 12, 2008) 68,500 miles. The cost of the batteries and installation on the warranty worksheet was $4,100. The only indication that the batteries had gone bad was the IMA light came on and stayed on. I purchased the car in Sept of 2002. 5 1/2 years doesn't seem good when they said they would last for 10 years.

in between the firewall and intake manifold

on left hand side theres a nob if i had a picture i would put it on here but im @ school so i cant take a picture right now. i can later. but anyways you look for a nob that's on the left side of the bike if you are sitting on it. you want to start the bike and turn the nob rev it up and see how it runs. if it runs to fast turn it back if it stals turn it forward. you want to adjust it rev it up and then turn it off to see how itl start back up and stay running. you can email me @ kurtis3233@yahoo.com if you want a picture display of the nob or any other help

If there is a wear ridge built up in the drum they may need to be pounded off. Try to release the self adjuster star wheel if you can also.

idk rear or front speakers..... i believe the speakers are 6 and 1/2 front and back if its rear speakers then u can probably cut bigger holes in the rear... You don't need to cut the wires at all, I just got mine installed in 5 minutes with the adapter speaker plug, I got them from Amazon for 16 bucks but you save a lot of time and you don't mess the wire system of your car with the black tape and stuff.

Practice running the way you run in competition. For example, if there are a lot of short sprints in your sport, practice doing short sprints. Of course, your genetics (specifically, the length of your bones and the percentages of certain kinds of muscular fibers in your legs) how fast you'll be able to run, but such movements are exercise specific in terms of how they are effectively trained.

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well ur problem is u didn't use the H22 which will bolt right in conect a couple wires and ur good 2 go, first you should really look at all your fuel lines and make sure they're properly connected without any pinches in the lines.h22 answer is by an idiot

Yes, you can settle, make payments, file bankruptcy or move to a state that the DMV does not recognize the judgment. Many states are creating legislation to block their states from a national DMV. Bankruptcy is not good for the judgment holder since they would see nothing as far as money, so settling is in your favor. Also bankruptcy will muck up your credit for years.

THOSE ARE DISC BRAKES

I just replaced the ignition lock on a 98 Civic LX, so hopefully this will help.

Remove the plastic stuff from the steering wheel (three screws, then it separates by CAREFULLY pulling it apart. There are these little clips (two on each side) holding the top and bottom pieces together that can break fairly easily. On the good side, if you break one at least you can get at the other three and pull them apart with a thin screwdriver.

Anyway, now you can actually see the ignition lock. There's a Torx screw holding it in, with a little center post. That means you have to use one of the Torx wrenches with a hole in the middle. Auto Zone had a set for about $9. Take out the screw.

Put in the key and turn it to position 1.

Now. so that you and I are looking at the same thing, face the slot the key goes in. At about 2:00, a couple of inches along the top of the cylinder, there's a little black button in a hole. Push down on it with a thin screwdriver or unbent paper clip. It's spring loaded, so once it's pushed down you can remove the lock cylinder by pulling it out.

BUT DON'T!

Pull it out a little. Look at the bottom, and you'll see there's a thin piece of metal that fits into it. If at all possible, pull down on the metal so that it doesn't come out with lock. If you can do that, the rest is a snap. You finish pulling out the cylinder, leaving that metal strip in place. You take the new lock, turn the key to 1, start to slid it in, get that metal piece into position on the bottom of the new lock, and then slid the whole thing in all the way (yes, you have to press down on that black button to get it in.) It will click into place as the black button pops up in to the hole, so you know it's in as far as it will go.

Now, let's say that you pulled out the lock cylinder and that long metal piece came out with it, or popped out of its channel, as might have happened to some of us (a-hem.)

It's a bit of a pain, because that metal strip also has a spring. When the key is off, the end of the strip goes up into the body of the lock cylinder. When you turn the key, it pushes that end down, the other end goes up, and I don't know what happens from there. But the spring pushes it back into the lock cylinder when you take the key out, so you need it.

Here's what the strip looks like: it's about 3 inches long, with a small curve up on each end, the end that goes into the cylinder is the longer than the other end. In about the middle of it, there a U shaped piece of wire made from the same thing they make paper clips out of (that thickness and roundness.) There's also a little bump on the underside, and NEXT to that bump is a very slight bump which is where the spring pushes up. Assuming the whole thing came out, you've now got this metal piece, a spring, and no way to get it all back in again.

Okay, here's what you do. On the underside of the lock cylinder housing (the thing you took the lock cylinder out of), you'll see a little black plastic plug , attached by one Philips screw. Take it off, you now have access to the underside of the lock cylinder.

Take the new lock cylinder, turn the key to position 0, and fit the metal piece into the underside of it. Now, slide the whole thing in, making sure that the U shaped wire goes into the slot for it - don't worry, you'll see it. It's not as complicated as it seems here, it's just there's no picture I can show you. You won't be able to put the lock cylinder all the way in because the key is in the 0 position, but that's okay. Turn it to the 1 position now, and slide the lock cylinder all the way in. Now, very carefully, take the spring and compress it between your fingers. Slide it in through the hole in the bottom of the housing, where you took that black plug off. Get the top of the spring in first, then push the bottom in just enough so it doesn't pop out. Now, take a tweezers and fiddle around until you've moved the bottom of the spring into position, which is actually a very small bump. See that shiny flat spot on the bottom of the housing? The bump is on the other side, so you just have to move that spring about a 16th of an inch over from where it is now. Got it? Good, now put the plug back on before something happens!

Test it out by turning the key. It should all work. Thankfully, I don't know what happens if it DOESN'T work, but it can't be good.

I looked all over the net, in the Honda shop manual, in Hayes, Chiltons, etc. and nobody mentioned that damn spring. Sorry if it sounds confusing, but once you do it you'll see it isn't that bad.

Have the egr valve tested(vacuum test) when the egr goes bad the vehicles idle changes it feels like its going to turn off ,but if the valve is stuck open all the way the vehicle will turn off when idling. While answer 1 is not incorrect, another possible and more common cause is that the vehicle has gone far too long without proper preventive maintence and is in need of a complete TUNE UP. Failure to regularly and properly do recommended preventive maintence is guaranteed to eventually lead to performance problems. Good luck. j3h

Jack up the vehicle either both front wheels or one at a time remove wheels probably 19mm socket remove calipers probably between 12mm14mm remove old shoes buy brake clean clean out slide clean out caliper Find rotor minimun thickness spec and measure rotor for minimum thickness have rotors machined or buy new ones reassemble do not damage caliper piston boot do not disconnect brake line loosely install brake reservoir cap have proper brake fluid handy if hard to install new pads use LARGE pliers or C clamp to force caliper piston back into bore feel pedal if spongy bleed brake system reinstall master cylinder cap

It's inside the distributor.....On the flat side....

Back the star adjuster off - till the drums rotate freely. There are two shallow (approx 1/4" deep) threaded holes they are tapped for an M8 x 1.25 bolt. You may also need a hammer of some kind like a dead blow or a large black rubber one. Turn the bolts in, tightening one a bit, then the other, then tap on the drum with your hammer. Repeat till you have the drum off. Good Luck and Remember.

Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.

Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.

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Yes it does matter. There are usually two different sizes for both stock brake components, and aftermarket components. The larger rotors are for performance brake calipers and of course aftermarket rims. If you civic is stock, the smaller ones are the ones you need.