Honda Civic

1995 And Newer Typical Nissan Pin What It Is In Dash Wire Color A Right Rear Speaker (+) Gray B Amplifier Turn On Wire C Right Rear Speaker (-) Gray w/ Red Stripe D Left Rear Speaker (+) Orange E Left Rear Speaker (-) Black w/ Pink Stripe F Amp Ground Wire (connect this wire to the radios ground wire) G +12 Volt Ignition Wire Blue H Do Not Use I Right Front Speaker (+) Brown J Left Front Speaker (+) Purple K Ground Wire (if available) metal brackets on radio L Do Not Use M +12 Volt Battery Wire Pink N Power Antenna Wire O Right Front Speaker (-) Brown w/ White Stripe P Left Front Speaker (-) Green w/ Yellow Stripe AS VIEWED FROM MATING END OF CONNECTOR a b g h i j c d e f k l m n o p

Its hard to say without you posting the year,make,model,engine,etc. But just guessing yes it could. on a lot of newer vehicles, the transmission needs to know how fast the car is going. This is one of 2 things the transmission needs know before it can function properly. The other is engine load.

you enter the code (4-5 digits) on the radio face usuing the preset radio station buttons. if your display reads code error you need to unplug the 40a aux fuse under the hood. it is in a little black box next to the battery. i have been told the security code will be under the lid of this box or in your owners manual. it was not on mine. if you do not have the code i was told you have to take the car into a dealership to have it reset. you enter the code (4-5 digits) on the radio face usuing the preset radio station buttons. if your display reads code error you need to unplug the 40a aux fuse under the hood. it is in a little black box next to the battery. i have been told the security code will be under the lid of this box or in your owners manual. it was not on mine. if you do not have the code i was told you have to take the car into a dealership to have it reset.

turn the key on-hold buttons 1 and 6 on your radio--4 numbers pop up---then eep holding and 4 more numbers pop up---those 8 numbers are your serial number call the dealer ,ask for svc-give them the numbers and they will get your code---before that--look in your papers when u bought your car--little white card has your code on it

The driver's side wiper is usually 26 inches long but with some wiper brands and styles the particular structure of the wiper blade frame may make it necessary to use a 25 inch or 24 inch blade to maintain complete contact between the wiping element and the glass through the complete stroke of the wiper.

The passenger side wiper is 18 inches long.

Generally, it is a good idea to consult the fitment guide/catalog of the wiper manufacturer before purchasing replacement wipers. There may be a few different part numbers for wipers of the same length but different attachment mechanisms.

If the correct wiper is not available in a pinch it may be possible to use a shorter wiper for temporary use. An undersized wiper will be under higher than intended pressure, however, and will wear faster. An oversize wiper should not be used as it may damage a weather seal or paint.

Here are some few more steps, in addition to the previously mentioned steps, that could help you in your repalcement:

1. Open the hood and locate your vehicle's alternator.

2. Using your digital multi-meter, check the battery voltage. A dead battery will usually have less than 9 volts. This would not be enough power to start most vehicles.

3. To verify that your alternator is bad, make sure your battery is fully charged and can pass a load test.

4. With the good battery installed, connect your digital multi-meter across the battery terminals with the engine turned off. A good battery should read between 12-13 volts.

5. Start your engine and read the digital multi-meter's output. The voltage should rise near 13.5-14.5 volts.

6. Using an open end wrench, disconnect the battery's negative cable

7. Disconnect the power and ground wires on the back of the alternator paying close attention to where each wire connects. Disconnect the wiring harness connector.

8. Loosen the alternator bracket bolts, and alternator adjusting bolts or alternator belt tensioner so that you can remove the alternator drive belt.

9. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, remove the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt, lower pivot bolt (if equipped), and the alternator.

10. Install new alternator.

11. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, loosely install the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt and lower pivot bolt (if equipped).

12. Install the alternator belt.

13. Pull the alternator until the alternator belt is tight.

14. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts while gently moving the alternator unit to achieve proper alternator belt tension.

15. Reinstall the power and ground wires to alternator. Install the wiring harness connector.

16. Push down in the middle of the alternator belt to check belt tension. If the alternator belt moves more than a half an inch, it is too loose, adjust the alternator belt to proper tension before proceeding to next step.

17. Now that the alternator belt has been installed and adjusted, reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check the battery voltage to verify proper alternator charging.

18. Turn off the engine and recheck the alternator belt tension. Readjust the alternator belt tension if needed.

Disconnect the battery. Then unplug the alternator and take the belts off. Unbolt it. Put a new one back on. Bolt it in. Put belts back on. Plug it back in. Reconnect the battery. Viola! Replaced alternator.

Probably computer controlled and not adjustable

[edit] the ignition advance/retard is computer controlled but setting proper idle ignition timing can be done with a timing light an a 12mm wrench (I prefer a deep 3/8 drive socket).

hooking up your timing light (or someone else's for that matter) I'll assume you can figure out. there is a two-wire harness behind the passenger footwell (mine is actually above that stuffed under the far right side of the dash board).. you'll need to connect those two wires with a piece of wire or paper-clip. then, with the timing light hooked up, start the car and let it warm up to operating temp. once its up to temp set the timing light to 16 degrees (advanced)... there is a little v-shaped piece that sticks off the lower timing belt cover that will line up with the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley (just below the v-shaped notch).. when the timing light strobes the two should be lined up, if they are not then loosen the three 12mm bolts that hold the distributor on (loosen, DO NOT remove them) and slowly rotate the distributor until the mark lines up with the notch. once they are lined up, re-tighten the bolts on the distributor.

Note: I have a 94 civic Si which has the same motor as your 95 EX and my service manual lists idle timing to be set to 16degrees BTDC (before top dead center).. check with your local shop or a Honda service manual to double check your proper timing setting.

fIRST DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY. Then make sure that you have the right wiring harness for your car, The radio has it owns.Either you plug the wire harness into the car wiring harness, or you might have to splice the wiring according to the colors that are matching. Red is power, black is ground, blue is remote. Make sure that the wires are not touching cause it will blow the radio fuse(remember undo negative terminal).Now match the wires for the speakers, each wire has a different color so you can't get confused. also make sure that you have a radio kit for the housing.

I think that either your radiator is plugged up, not allowing your coolant to use the full volume and/ or surface area of the radiator. Also, your thermostat might be stuck closed not letting your coolant to circulate through the block. And last thing, make sure that your electric cooling fan comes on when the car gets above 180 degrees. My answer is to replace your thermostat, flush and clean your cooling system (by a professional radiator shop)with a strong cleaner, and make sure there are no leaks in your cooling system, your car has a closed system, a leak will make it over heat too.

in the fuse box either in the engime compartment or on the driver side under the dash near the door there is a fuse box also.

The rear drum brakes are self adjusting. This happens each time you back up and apply the brakes. You can speed the process by backing up and using the hand brake to stop. If for some reason this is not working you can, on some cars manually adjust the brakes by removing a small rubber seal on the lower part of the backing plate at each wheel. You then use a brake adjustment wrench to rotate a star wheel and tighten the brake shoes snugly against the drum until it cannot be turned by hand. Back it off until the wheel can be turned freely. I would first try removing the wheel and drum and clean all components with a spray brake assembly cleaner. More than likely, it is not working due to corrosion or dirt in and around the assembly.

Check the Idle Air Control. It might have carbon deposits and need cleaning. Also do the same for the throttle body intake. It might also need cleaning.

One reason would be that both low beams are burned out. It happens. Other than that, I suppose it could be a relay problem (usually under the hood near a strut tower). This has been a re-call issue and is common on this model. I had received a recall notice to have my dimmer switch for the 2001 replaced but ingored it. Sure enough i was driving on a long trip and my dimmer lights stopped working and I only had bright lights. I contacted my dealer and it was replaced. Thanks

This site will show you the wiring diagram of a radio harness for just about any vehicle. Hope it helps

http://www.the12volt.com/

or do it the old fashion like i did if the radio diagram says the blue wires on the radio are for the left front grab the wires from the harness coming from the car and grab the two from the harness and connect them together and if the back right speaker comes on , disconnect them and grab the wires from the radio that says back right and connect those two. repeat this until the others three are sounding in the right order until done

Objects expand when heated because the heat 'gives' molecules more energy, so they move around more. This vibration, as molecules are pushed further apart, is manifested as a larger volume. An exception is water, which contracts as it cools until you reach about 3.98 ° C then starts to expand as it cools more. This is caused by the shape of water molecules. Then again, there is Zirconium Tungstate which contracts as it is heated up to 800o C (an effect caused by lattice formation that twists and turns individual molecules).

The easiest way to replace them is to replace the axles. If you are not mechanically inclined you should see a mechanic if you are so adept here are the steps:

1. put the front of the car up on jack stands and block the rear wheels

2. remove both front wheels or the wheel of the damaged side

3. look in the center of the brake rotor, see the nut that looks like a castle with a pin through the bolt its on? that has to come off, remove the pin and nut but don't damage the pin you will reuse it, if it brakes you can get them at an auto parts store

4. you have to remove the lower steering control arm it will be towards the back of the car attached to the spindle, it will have a nut facing up, remove the nut and gently tap the arm down to get it lose

5. look directly beneath the rotor there will be another nut, this one hold the spindle (what holds the rotor) to the lower control arm, remove it

6. now you should be able to move the lower control arm down and swing the spindle out towards you to pull the axle out the back of the spindle

7. now using a long screwdriver or pry bar follow the axle to the transmission where it meets the transmission there is a boot and a cylindrical cup where it meets the transmission use the pry bar between the cup and the transmission to pop the axle out of the transmission

8. get a new axle and reverse the steps for reinstallation however be sure that when you are putting the new axle in that you don't pull it long ways there is a slip joint inside the cup end and if you pull it too far the bearings inside might come lose.

Hope this helps but be sure to be careful and take your time.

2, one for the passenger front wheel and one for the driver's front wheel.

Honda was made in Tokyo Japan.

White smoke is a sign of water going through your engine, and is normally caused by a leaking head gasket or cracked head. Check your coolant level. If it is low, find a good repair shop.

• Change oil
• Rotate tires
• Change transmission fluid

It depends on what you're going for. The SI edition is considered Sport Injected. Generally it will have a slightly larger engine. My 1995 Civic Si has a 1.6 cubic liter engine with VTEC, along with four wheel disc breaks. The amenities are sometimes dealer options, my car does not have AC but some civic SIs do come with it. SIs should have tilt wheels, drivers and passengers side mirrors, etc. You can generally compare the differences at www.kbb.com

3

remember.

Ek civic generally refers to the 96-00 civics, even though the VIN says "EJ" example, my coupe's body designation in the VIN is "EJ8"

how to remove your door panel. I'm assuming you have no power windows on your dx. behind your window handle is a c-clip that is stopping you from pulling this panel off. even if you have already taken out a few screws and tried to pull the panel off...you must take this clip off, here is how. there is a special tool for this, or you can simply push back the door panel so that you can see the clip. once you see the open end of the c-clip take a t-shirt or towel and simply work it into the open end of the clip until the clip pops off.

I just used a flat head screwdriver to push one side on the clip down as far as possible and then pushed on the other side of it and it usually pops off mine luckily was still attached to the handle so i didn't have to go to a junk yard to get a new one