Mazda 626

The 1990 Mazda 626 has a towing capacity of 750 pounds. The manufacturer recommends that you never exceed the towing capacity.

Directly under the thermostat housing. Drivers side.

You'll need an 18mm open-end wrench with either a long handle or a pipe to fit over the wrench end (for leverage). From the top looking down, you're going to get the wrench end on the bolt in the center of the idler pulley (located just behind the alternator and riding on top of the alternator belt.) It is a tight fit getting the tool between the radiator hose and the pulleys, but it is doable without removing any of the hoses.

Once you get the wrench on the bolt good, put the pipe over the wrench handle and turn/loosen the bolt by moving the wrench handle toward the back of the car (counter-clockwise). Just a few more partial turns and it should be loose.

Notice the long threaded rod sticking up behind the idler pulley bracket. Loosen that rod using a metric socket (don't recall the size). 4 or 5 complete turns should be enough. The idler pulley should now be loose enough to move up and down on its track, allowing you to remove the old belt, or put the new one on.

You should be able to put the new one on from underneath the car in front of the right front wheel. It should go around the alternator, then down to the air conditioner compressor then over the harmonic balancer, back up to the alternator. The idler pulley should sit on top of the belt from above.

Once you've gotten the new belt on, tighten the threaded rod. This rod merely holds the back of the idler pulley bolt in place so you can tighten the bolt from the front of the pulley. The rod just needs to be tight enough (firm) to hold the nut/bracket in place.

Have a friend push down on the idler pulley to tension the belt to the desired level while you tighten the 18mm bolt on the front. Once that is tightened, check that the threaded rod is still firm against the little bracket at the bottom the rod. This helps keep the idler in place and tension on the belt.

That should do it!

Trouble code P0455 means: EVAP System Large Leak (0.080") Detected

The starter is placed center under the Mazda 3 for easy access to the battery connection and the flywheel. You need to remove the plastic shroud under the car to reach it.

Engine oil and filter change for v6 is 3.97 litres (4.2 quarts.) For the 4 cyl with oil filter change it is 3.5 litres (3.7 quarts)

The lid of the fuse box normally has a diagram on it. If you do not have a diagram you can go to www.mx-3.com and there are online shop manuals that will have such information.

I just did this today on my car. first you have to remove the side cusions (the ones in between the rear seat and the rear door) on both sides then you fold down both of the rear seats and carefully puchup on the cusions until they come off. then in your trynk you must push up all of the white push-in-bults and unclip the rear light cover. then this part is a little confusing to explain but you won't be able to pull out the apulstry covering your speakers yet until you pop it out of the side lining. and after that it is self explanitory.

Hope I helped

I just did this today on my car. first you have to remove the side cusions (the ones in between the rear seat and the rear door) on both sides then you fold down both of the rear seats and carefully puchup on the cusions until they come off. then in your trynk you must push up all of the white push-in-bults and unclip the rear light cover. then this part is a little confusing to explain but you won't be able to pull out the apulstry covering your speakers yet until you pop it out of the side lining. and after that it is self explanitory.

Hope I helped

Try to use Toyota speaker adapter plugs so you don't need to cut wires and mess the electric system up. You can get them from Ebay or Amazon.

No it will not but I actually have a transmission for a 1999 Mazda 626, it only has 80,000 miles on it, get back to me if your interested, thanks. My e-mail is jospencer93@yahoo.com.

NO you do not have to pull the engine.

Jack up the front of the car and make sure it is safe.

Then loosen the screws that hold the pan under the transmission.

Careful there is a lot of oil in it so its better to take all the screws out except a few that will still hold the pan while you get to the side of it and then once all the screws are out then you can gently lower the pan down.

Drain the oil out safely and clean the pan as well as any iron filings on the magnet.

Take the old filter out from under the transmission including the seal and also gasket around where the pan fits on and clean it all.

Put new seal and new filter in and then put the gasket on the pan and tighten screws to fix it to the transmission.

Do not over tighten screws, just enough and all evenly around the pan.

Put car down and take jack out.

Put new transmission oil in and then start the car and let it idle for a bit and then check the dipstick to see how much more oil to put in.

Check under car to make sure no oil is leaking.

Can take car for a run and then check oil again while car is idling and top up if necessary.

Regularly change transmission oil and filter at least every 100 000km or 12 months even earlier.

Take care of car and drive safely.

Lights in a home can flicker when the voltage received at the light is not staying stable. Two main causes: >the starting of machines or appliances with motors (like a refrigerator) and/or heating elements (like a laser printer)- the voltage dips when motors start, thus causing the lights to blink slightly. If even the smallest machines cause flickering, then the size of the wiring in the building may be too small. This is not dangerous but annoying. >Loose or arcing wire connections - this could be inside or outside the home. If outside it would be loose connections on the utilities companies wiring, and make the whole house flicker. If inside it would be somewhere in the house's wiring. **Arcing is a hazardous condition that can start fires.**

Where is location transmission plug on Mazda 96 626

An Acid! =]]

The 1998 Mazda 626 DX sedan fuel tank holds 16.9 gallons of gas. It gets 26 miles per gallon in the city and 33 mpg on the highway. The '98 626 produces 125 horsepower at 5,500 rpm.

Door speaker size. 6 X 9

1. Clutch fluid is brake fluid.

2. The fluid used for your clutch master/slave cylinders is pulled from your brake fluid reservoir.

I had a heck of a time finding it in my 1988. Keep in mind that the engine sits in there sideways, so the "back" of the engine, or flywheel is actually on the driver's side (the front is on the passenger side). The starter for any vehicle is at the flywheel. Raise the vehicle and crawl underneath from the front on the driver's side. Look for the oil filter. Slightly above and to your left (toward the driver's side wheel well) is the starter. It looks to me like you'll need to drain the motor oil and remove the oil filter to have room to remove the starter.

Block the rear tires, loosen lug nuts, raise vehicle set on jack stands. Remove wheel, remove the two bolts attaching the brake caliper to the steering knuckle (very obvious, only two bolts on the caliper), use a piece of metal from a clothes hager to hang the caliper in the wheel well. I use the spring on my shock, this is so your caliper is not hanging by the brake line. Remove the two old pads, clean then remove your brake fluid resevior cap, under the hood drivers side. Now use a brake caliper spreader to press the piston back into the caliper. You may also use one of the old pads resting against the piston and a C-clamp to squeeze the piston into the caliper. Now clean your caliper with a rag, apply a VERY small amount of brake caliper lubricant on the piston ring and where the pad rests on the opposite side to the piston. If you look at your old pads you can tell where they rubbed. Install your new pads, most have an inside pad and an outside pad. If not sure check the other brake that is still together. Pull out the two slider pins from your steering knuckle, clean lube, replace. Slide the caliper with the new pads onto the rotor, if you get close and it won't go, check to be sure the slider pins are pushed in all the way. Line up bolt holes, bolt together, use a torque wrench, or tighten well but do not over tighten. I use liquid thread locker to ensure the bolts stay put. Repeat on opposite side, reinspect ensuring bolts are tight replace brake fluid resevior lid, turn key pump brakes inspect, make sure top edge of pads are in line with rotors. Replace wheels, check lug nuts after a few miles of driving.

If it has those transmission without a transmission pan then all you can do is drain the fluid and refill it back up with fresh one. The ones I have seen are like Hondas, their filters are built inside the transmissions, so in order to replace the filter is to rebuilt the transmission. Those Mazda transmission should use Mercon III transmission fluid but check in your manual book to make sure. The Honda transmissions uses special transmission fluid from the Honda Dealer only.

It my be your Mass Air Flow Sincere.

See if you are getting power and Ground to lighter socket. If so replace element and/or socket. If no power further investigate circuit to find where power is fed to same.

buy a new one, and there is only one nut for the whole assembly right in the middle. its a five minute job with blet back on and everything

I suppose you will get 2-phase liquid: antifreeze at the bottom and gasoline at the top.

off unless you are towing