Mercury Tracer

Purchase a Hanes Auto Repair manual for the 1999 Mercury Tracer

A TCC is not a sensor. TCC stands for Torque Converter Control. It is found in transmissions that have a torque converter lockup feature, and it is controlled by a solenoid in the valve body, which is inside the transmission. If your car has an ATX transmission, it doesn't have TCC. If it is a 4EAT transmission, then it could have TCC.

You may mean TSS which stands for Tubine Speed Sensor, which, of course, is a sensor. It would only be found on a 4EAT transmission, and it would be somewhere on the main body of the transmission, on the top, toward the left side.

I'd recommend having it professionally done if you don't know what you're doing. If you feel confident, then you can purchase a refill (i'm assuming it's R134a!) canister that has a gauge on it. I do believe the can will provide the proper procedure to test the refrigerant level.

There are five steps on how to replace the vanity visor mirrors in a 1993 Mercury Tracer wagon. Some of the step-by-step instructions are unscrew the visor fasteners and lower the visor, and then make sure to use the pocket screwdriver to unclip the wiring harness from the visor.

A basic tuneup includes changing the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, changing the oil/filter, check fluid levels, and perhaps check the engine codes.

Unfortunately, this is one of the most complex and time consuming operations, short of changing the engine/transmission that can be done to the car. The heater core is mounted in a box, inside the passenger compartment, almost dead center behind the dashboard and is mounted directly on the firewall to allow the hoses to go through. If you put your hand just above the accellerator pedal, and go toward the center console, you'll find the heater core box. There is no way to remove the heater core from the engine compartment. In fact, other than draining the radiator and removing the hose clamps and a bolt or two, you

Normally, the A/C orafice tube is located in the a/c refrigerant line entering the heat/exchanger or heater core. It looks like a long narrow pointed screen from an old water well point. And, it usually cost approx. $10. To change it, you must evacuate the A/C with proper capture equipment, remove and replace the tube, replace the seals for that area, then do a vac. test on the system. Make sure it holds a good vac. before charging it. BTW, vac it down for at least 30 minutes to remove any and all moisture from the system. Normal indications of a plugged orafice tube include no cooling, compressor siezing due to a blockage (can't push the coolant and the clutch slips), smells pretty bad and eventually burns out the clutch, the compressor, or both. Also, and this is important, you must flush the system out. If the tube is plugged, the system can contain contaminants and dirt that will plug the new tube as well. You would also change the reciever/dryer as well. So spend the money, have it professionally serviced by a good shop, and the A/C will last much longer and cool so much better. It may save you expensive repairs later... trust me... hope this helps...

Is a 1996 mercury tracer 1.9 a interference engine?

Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine... you'll want to remove that metal plate that holds the ignition coil to gain access. I suggest replacing the bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the engine, they have broken on me when I replaced my therostat. Had to drill them out when I foolishly reused them.

Well if you're doing your standard fluid/filter change, just measure how much you removed, and replace that much.

biological tracer means to study the biological aspects with the help of, called tracers.

4.1 Qt.s

First, the best thing to do is go over to the parts store and pick up an ignition lock cylinder WITH KEYS. Then take off all parts of the dash that cover up your cylinder. Then look at the new one find where the little button is to push. Put the keys in the ignition, turn it to the on position (battery disconnected), push the pin in and it will come right out by pulling on the key

You could check the switch on the brake pedal, sometimes they need to be adjusted so the cruise will stay on.

Well actually i just done this on my 89 tracer. its pretty easy really. might need two sets of hands . makes it easyer. first off drain the cooling system. its a good time to do a flush while u have it all apart anyways . when u got the cooling system all drained out .remove the alternator belt and the pully on the water pump which are 3 bolts . take out the bolts that hold on the timing cover. i recall there are 8-10 bolts. remove the cover. ok then you wanna mark the cam gear with a marker or something so its lined up with the valve cover or some lined mark so you don't throw it out of time. remove the bolt holding the timing belt tentioner. be carful tho not to loose the spring that is connected to it after you have that off the belt should have enough slack to slide off the cam gear and crank pully. make sure YOU DO NOT TURN CRANK PULLY OR CAM PULLY.this will throw it out of time . by this time you will have everything out of your way to remove the water pump. ok now take out the bolts holding the water pump i recall there 12 mm . some of them you will have to use a wrench to get too. take off the two bolts on the front that hold the tube that goes to the heater core. the piece that unbolts from there just has a o ring holding it to the tube so just pull on it and it will come off also. pull the water pump out now. clean the block of old gasket and dirt. take a smoke break your half way done,

now lets go in reverse. i recomend using a hi temp rtv silicone gasket maker also.makes it easyer to hold the new gasket in place. put the new gasket with a few dabs of rtv onto the new water pump. bolt the water pump to the block . tork i think to 45 foot lbs. your new pump will come with a new o ring for the front so put that on the tube and slide the part on the tube. bolt the tube back on with new gasket and a little rtv again. give your buddy a hi five and drink a beer.

now on to the timing belt and tentioner. slide the new belt onto the crank and the cam gears . put the new tentioner pully on and don't forget the spring . get the tention right on the new belt and tighten down tentioner. once again DO NOT MOVE THE CAM AND CRANK GEARS. now put on the timing cover . almost done.

last thing. bolt the pully back onto the water pump for the belt that goes to the altinator. install the belt tighten the altinator back down and your done installing the water pump and timing belt . put new antifreeze and water back in the radiator 50/50 mix let car run for 10 -15 mins shut car off let it cool down. check the coolant level cause im sure u will need to add more because the block was empty and you have to let the car warm up for the thermostate to open up to fill the block. after topping off the coolant your done . congrats

hope i was helpful to ya.

Hello, I recently became an owner of a yellow 89 mer tracer as a a beater car. I love the little thing. I believe our engines are made by Mazda. therefore I would recommend searching Mazda ca rmanuals for the same engine. also just stop down your local Mazda or merc dealer and ask politely about how to make such repairs. let the service guys know they are gods and you just need a little advice. most of the time i have found that they tell you how to do it so they don't have to work on it. ask the techs, not the service manager.

good luck!

On most vehicles, there will be nuts or bolts inside the door the mirror is located on, but under the door panel. If there is a triangular panel separate from the door panel, they may be under this. Otherwise, you will have to remove the door panel to access them.

11.6 gallons

Yes, you can buy at local auto parts store kit. It is simply a short thin cable with a handle on each end, you able to remove the handle and push cable under rubber seal, then re attach handle. With another person, it is a simple pull the cable back and forth around seal of windshield until free to lift out.

I know of two, one is on the driver's side above and to the left of the foot brake, this seems to be for radio, heater, dashboard lights, etc. The other is under the hood by the battery, not sure what parts it is for.

I don't know why exactly, but I do know is that by pulling just slightly on the high beam/cruise control/turning signal lever and you press on the breaks, the lights kick in.

I have a '93 ford escort 1.9, I always use mercron automatic transmission fluid. Use Mercon but do not use Mercon V.

No, tracer bullets are not legal to shoot in the state of New Mexico. Doing so can end up resulting in heavy fine fees and even jail time.

It is important to know the location of the fuses and relays within a car. The fuel pump relay for this car, is found in the fuse box under the hood.Ê

Check the control rod from the key down to the switch at the base of the steering column?

Check the wiring at the harness at the lower left of the steering column for frayed or burnt wires

Answer #2. Ain't no control rod unfortunately.

Switch is blown, as is the little flat cheap rod which connects the key housing to the key switch (switch is mounted to the back of the key/tumbler housing). Rod breaks because the switch breaks (locks up) first; your key twisting torque then shears off the flat rod; switch is then locked either on or off. Alas, cheap flat rod is part of the key/tumbler housing, and CAN'T BE REPLACED SEPARATELY.

Happened to a friend of mine, after sampling some medicinal herb in the middle of nowhere -- car would't start, and the key felt like it wasn't turning the switch anymore. It wasn't. Long walk home. Or so I heard.

Good News: switch is cheap. Held on to the back of the housing with one self tapping Phillips screw (unique. hint. hint) and one tab which usually breaks off unless you are careful. Not death, but be careful.

Bad news: Key housing needs to be replaced also. Parts houses have them, but now you have one key for the ignition, a different one (the original) for the doors.

Further bad news: replacing the key housing is a bear. But doable (I've done half a dozen of these. Love the cars I guess.) Steering column needs to be dropped (all black surround plastic removed - 4 Phillips screws. Center one is unique. again), then 4 more 12 or 13 mil bolts will drop the column down about a foot.

Remove the steering wheel (center horn assembly removed first), remove the turn signal switch assembly (3 tiny assed, unique screws -- don't lose them, parts store won't have them), then the FUN begins. Key assembly is held on with two metric bolts, that no longer have any head on them -- they intentionally shear off when installed so that gang bangers can't steal your ride and cruise the hood. If they do this in a tracer, they are truly dangerous. To get these bolts out, you need a pointed chisel and hammer. Actually they screw out easily. Then head to ACE and pick up matching METRIC bolts with round heads which use an internal hex head -- need a metric Allen wrench for this, better pick one up at ACE also. CAUTION. If you don't buy this specific bolt (decide to use a standard 12 or 13 mil hex head, you will say many bad words because the hex head won't clear the ignition switch clamp. Bolts probably 50 cents each. Walmart won't have them.

Then simply reverse the above and reinstall the column. Ouch. Takes lots of tools, time, and work. Not really, and not really much cash, because the swith is cheap. It's the Key/tumbler assembly which makes a man mean. Or. Get a new switch, let it hang, then turn it on or off with a screwdriver.

Don't be afraid. Keep this car on the road!!

FieroGtChuck

4 qts and 5W-30 is the type.