Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

because the car isn't used to stopping that long

your ignition coil is going bad my was doing the same thing losing power at a stop light or stop sign after about 30 minutes changed coil packs now its fine unless your engine is low of water and runing hot the coils should fix it.

Certainly, this big-inch 1960s V8 engine was fairly thirsty by today's standards, but there weren't a lot of downsides it that I can recall. The 425 Olds was a fairly high compression engine which required premium fuel, and so it might not perform too well on today's unleaded pump gasoline. The horsepower reported in the 1960s up to 1971 was in the so-called "SAE Gross" rating, so it would be difficult to compare this engine with later models which use "SAE Net" rating. A general rule of thumb is that net horsepower is about 75-80 percent of gross horsepower. In case you don't know, the chief difference between this engine and the more common 455 Oldsmobile was the crankshaft. The 425 Olds had a stroke of 3.975 inches, while the later 455 had a stroke of 4.25 inches.

What are hold down hooks

Actually, Heather, I don't think there is such a thing as a cracked head that isn't severe. Any crack is severe. Get a head ffom the wrecking yard and have it machined is the cheapest. There are machine shops that will repair heads but they are gebnerally more expensive unless you have a caterpillar head or something like this.

they never put a big block in the G body in the 80's.

Bring to ashop that has an ABS scanner to determine the problem

Is written in your manual. Not any problem to find. To check or the circuit and timer are OK, let someone else listen at the fusesbox at the motor. The relais should tick with switching the defroster on and of. If this happens, the timercircuit, fuse, relais are probanly ok. I think there must be a connector unterneath the back seat, what gives the problem. To open the backseat, you should have to man pushig very carefully up the corners left and right of the backseat. Let me know or you could find anything....

performanceolds307.tripod.com

u can call atuo zone and tell them what codes ur getting and they can tell u what they mean

I'm not sure what you are asking... If your turn signals are not working for either direction, your "flasher unit" is probably the problem. (really cheap and easy to replace) If one signal is working and the other is not, then one of the bulbs are burnt out.

If I am not understanding your actual question... I'm sorry.

Try the repair tips on the Autozone web site.

Torque to 16 ft lbs then to 23 ft lbs. Go over once more at 23 ft lbs. Torque sequence is as follows: 7 4 3 6 8 1 2 5

Need more info, Year make model? Which end broke? Did you end up pulling out the wire or just the end came off inside the vehicle? If you are not comfortable with pulling the grill or parts of the interior you might be better to go to a bodyshop (or mechanic) and have them replace the cable for you.

5x4.75 aka 5 x 4 3/4

http://www.teufert.net/wheels/bolt-pat.htm

Chevy car rally wheels....yes. Truck....no. Except S-10.

It may be the turn signal switch located under the horn in the steering wheel. Try holding up the turn signal lever with your left hand and apply the brake. See if that helps.

Same thing happened to my car. The blower motor and the resistor had to be replaced. It cost me . The dealer actually had the parts in stock because it happened frequently enough with the Echo that he wanted the parts on hand. If it is your problem, you may be lucky enough to find a rebuilt blower motor.

Are the gauges mechanical or electrical? (LED DISPLAY) If it's both the gauges and the lighting, i'd use a voltmeter and probe the circuit where the fuse is that you replaced. Check to see if voltage is flowing thru. If it isn't, then there's a break in the circuit somewhere... and the hard part starts. USUALLY, it's a lose ground that's either poorly bolted to the chassis, or is rusted or something that prevents it from providing the proper ground.

I have the same problem in my 98 wrangler. My gages go on and off intermitantly. The dealer said it was the molex wire connector from the computer to the gage panel. They wanted $900. so im trying to find the part online.

I am not a mechanic, but there is a TSB on this for my 1999 Jeep Cherokee. I was at the point I was going to replace the entire dash module, around $900 when I found the TSB. The fix is a $7 plug that plugs into the back of the module. All that needs to be done is to cut out the old plug and splice in the new one. I haven't had this problem in about 4 months, it was an every day, all day occurence. Find the TSB for the exact name of the part etc. Just ask your local dealerships service manager about it. He may not want to tell you, but he will.

One my 93, the back of the instrument cluster is basically a circuit board with "ribbons" of connectors going from the main wire harness/plug. Check to see if you have appropriate signals coming from the plug itself and/or there are no breaks in these "ribbons"

My dash does the same thing. I normally bump the top left front of the dash in a forward motion. That normally fixes it for a while anyways. I was told by a technision that it was to many keys on my key ring. I think dealerships just like to take you money. So unless you brother or sister is the technision don't listen to them. $900 for a new cluster is just insane. My Wrangler is a 98 almost 10 years old. who wants to spend that much to get it fixed?

I haver had this problem on a Jeep that I have been working on and finaly found a bad Airbag Control Module. I replaced the module and everything started working again.

You have to remove the calibar which is removed by the two pins that is held on by the two pins on the calibar. Most times these bolts are 3/8 heads Allen wrench. Then the calibar should lift off.

"I had the same probelm with my 92' Voyager, the only thing I could do was to strip the cable's casing until you see the release cable itself, then grip it with a pair of vise grips and pull it. It should release it then. If not look under the front bumper and take a long screwdriver and see if you can push on the release latch to open the hood."

Or, you can remove the grille for easier access to the latch by removing the four torx head screws which hold the grille in place. If that works, and you can release the latch, make sure that the end of the cable is properly seated in the latch, and, take care in the future that you don't allow slack in the cable or it will pop out again. This is usually what happens when your release lever breaks inside the car. It creates enough slack in the cable to make it jump out at the other end where it seats in the hood latch. I now have a pair of locking pliers (vice-grips) hooked to my release cable inside the car and it works fine. I cut away the plastic shroud and removed the old lever bracket to make room. I also had to reinstall a small rubber grommet where the cable goes from the passenger compartment to the engine through the metal fire-wall. This is important as it prevents dangerous fumes from entering the passenger compartment.

The opposite way you took it off

u probaly need to replace your axel

No, but my 442 is!