Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Hi I donno if this will help or not? I own a 1998 Mitsubishi 3000 Gt, its just a standard 2 dr hatch front wheel drive. 3.0L SOHC in excellent condition.. when the mileage turned 98,000. On Oct, 10 2004. The owners manual said it was time to change the timing belt, so I had the timing belt and water pump done. I was told it was best to change the water pump at the same time to save me money in the future as a preventive, because of it being labor intensive,Also I did not use after market parts I had to order The O/E parts from Mitsubishi I also had new NGK platuim plugs and Max-Fire plug wires, ECM dyno tuning, emmssion test, engine coolent replaced, with a radiator flush, and the Fuel Injectors inspected and cleaned, the annual 3500 mile oil change and the air-fliter was changed also, the total cost for this tune up at my local speed shop was $790.54. I'll list out the part and labor cost that I was charged so you can get a run down idea ( Samsons Gargage Treated me very well)

1 O/E Timing Belt ..$104.28 1 O/E water pump.( New! not a rebuilt).. $128.88 NGK platuim long life spark plugs (6)..$13,41 -20% discount Max-fire plug wires(Custom color) LTW..$68,00 Prestone coolent...$ 7.00 Air Hog Air filter..$10,83 Parts Total.. $263.80 Dyno Tuning... $149.00 Sub Total.... $412.80 Labor cost ...$320.00 Plus Tennessee State Tax..$57.54 Grand total.. $790.43

Oil change with fliter.No/charge because of amount of work I had done. This does not include the custom work I had done to the brakes, clibers and rotors. that are HP performance from R&R Racing.. Hey a girl has to stop.. I Ivy

There are many factors. First, is if you are doing it or a shop is doing it. The parts will be more expensive at a shop as they get marked up. The cost of running a auto repair shop is crazy and that is reflected in your bill. Second is the quality of parts your using. If you buy cheesball parts like many from autozone (I hate to single out a company, but the failure rate I have seen warrants this opinion)you will spend less money today, but more when you replace them tommorrow. If you buy quality parts they are more expensive today but you won't have to replace them tommorrow. Thirdly, the phrase "Tune-up" varies. What I would consider a complete tune up is this: Profession fuel injection cleaning $70.00, Throttle bore cleaning and air induction service $50.00, Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter -varies depending on car from $200.00 to $1500.00. For example, A 1996 Chevy caprice with a 4.3l motor if I remember right ran around $800.00 for the cap, rotor wires and labor alone. I would guess around $500.00 for you car.

The tune up by the book will run about $600.00 because of the labor. That's what I got quoted by my Mitsubishi dealer.

**A Special Note about Oil & Filter changes -- the Mitsubishi / Stealth 3.0 engines use a Factory oil filter that has a Check Valve built in --- This prevents Dry starts and rapid engine wear, the check valve is NOT in all aftermarket filters.

you may have a shorted starter solenoid or simply a bad ground conection. make sure that your negative side of the battery is in thihgt.

Fluid in motion or fluid in rest. (both can be used)

It is located under your hood in the main fuse box it should be a 20 amp fuse. It is an acc fuse.

Well, first of all, the bulb is going to go out *way* before the fuse itself. If your blinkers just stay steady, its a bulb.. if they don't come on at all, its probably a bulb, but just so you know, if you flip over the cover to your fuses, you should find a handy dandy little sticker, and it'll tell you the amps of each fuse, and what the fuse is for.

Im workin on it e.t.a. two days

factory colors of oldsmobile cutlass supreme

It's a white plastic thing right above the brake pedal. It has two wires that plug into it.

1984 Camaro Z28 OEM Tire: 215/ 65 R15 Ref: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findHomeSection.do

This is a very good question where business ethics plays a vital role. "Legally" the company does not have to hold it for you. It should be a best practice to hold any merchandise that a customer makes a payment on. Most businesses conduct their business this way as a means of doing what is right. If someone was to accidentally sell your merchandise to someone else the retailer or business should make an extreme attempt to satisfy the customer and get them their original request. It is important to keep all documentation, receipts, etc. with any sale. You can go to court if the retailer does not come through with an item you have paid for but you must present a good case and have all documentation. Ususally the retailer or business will satisy your needs before it ever gets this far.

Hi Well, if I had two new tires and two half-worn tires I would put the new ones on the front coz they are the ones doing the steering, and if you have a front-wheel-drive (which is almost everything these days) it's where the drive hits the road. In the old days there used to be two types of tire where this sort of question was much more relevant. There used to be Crossply tires, and there were the "new" Radials. Crossplys are long gone now unless you are looking to restore a 1947 Ford to original equipment, but for a time while both were available if you mixed crossplys and radials on the same axle you would end up in a ditch pretty quick.

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OEM is 195 deg. Driving should rise no more than 200 deg. At idle or traffic jam, or hot days temp can rise up to 240 deg, this is normal.

This car is still under warranty. If they need adjustment take it back to the dealer. Special tools are required and this is not a DIY project.

Not knowing what engine you have in your Olds, most engines will have the "Mapping" of the belt located somewhere under the hood. On my two Olds, they are located on the valve cover. When you purchase a new belt for your car the cardboard holder for the belt will display several diagrams based upon the engine that the belt will fit..... you out.

It could be a few things hub bearings, brakes, ball joints or possibly the CV axle. I would have it checked and then fix the problem at home if it is within your ability.

It is located on the Trans Case

If the dipstick of a 1999 Mercedes ML320 smells like gasoline there could be a gas leak dripping into the oil pan. The engine needs to be checked for leaks to avoid any serious damage to the vehicle.

barbecue gold was one color

Most likely its not your mass air flow sensor its gonna be your tp sensor (throttle position) or your down stream oxygen sensor because a MAF sensor controls your ITS or Ideal temp sensor witch can affect your accel and your idle when under a load but when its at rest or idle it will be affected by a tp sensor of O2 sensor they call the O2 sensor the spark plug that never gets changed..

Broken at the handle in the passenger compartment? Use vice grips on the cable. Pull the handle and nothing happens or cable just pulls out? Crawl under front and reach up and release the latch manually. No way huh. Okay, this is rather drastic but... (cough) fire attack personnal will cut a square hole(saw-n-spark) right above where that latch is located in the hood itself in the event of an engine fire. Now, I don't know what car you have, but without that release cable working there's not many options. Body work, or used hood replacement (junkyard) may be the answer to your bummer. ps. but don't call the fire dept. c-ya grade a da mopar man! Hi, I'm wondering where the hood release is broken? I'll take that the idea that the releasehandle is broken. The glove box needs to be removed and you can grab the cable from under the dash where the cable is. The worst case is if it's broken inside the engine compartment at the latch, The idea that I have is to remove the grill and reach from there to release the latch. I've just gone and looked at the situation and it does look as if, with a bit of work, you can locate and releaqse the latch by removing the grill. Hopefully, the latch is rusty and needs to be lubed to work but if it's broken, then buy the new cable assy which loos as it might contain the latch assy too. Hope this helps and good luck. Steve H.

Performance exhausts are usually custom bent and made by most exhaust shops.I have a 1987 olds cutlass and have used the Iroc Z design from the converter back .the muffler is an 80 series Flowmaster .It sounds really nice and it definitely helps the performance.Check in the yellow pages for people who custom bend their exhaust. As far as dual exhaust goes , the flowmaster is a single in and dual out sytle which keeps me emissions legal and gives the appearance of duals as well as the sound also.

The flasher switch for the 94 cutlass is not where you would think it would be it is behind and off to the side of the ashtray or below the radio. The above is accurate; getting to it is a little tricky. Open the glove box and remove the tether wire connection at the door by unscrewing the SHC screw with a T-15 Torx driver. This will expose 2 of the 4 fuse panel mounting screws. Use an 8mm socket to remove all four and wiggle the panel out. The flasher is behind and to the left in the harness itself, not on a terminal block. Use a straight blade screwdriver to gently pry the two prong connection from the unit (Mine was an OEM Wagner - bright yellow.) Additional Answer It depends if you're talking about the turn signal flasher or the emergency flasher. The emergency flasher is directly behind the glovebox. If you're referring to the turn signal flasher, I just replaced mine last night without having to mess with the fusebox or glovebox. It turns out that it was attached by a clip on the right side of the ashtray frame inside the dashboard. I took out the removable "cup" part of the ashtray, then removed the two upper and two lower ashtray frame screws. Next, I pulled the frame forward and disconnected the small ashtray light. The power wire for the cigarette lighter can stay attached. After I slide the frame out the rest of the way it was easy to get to and replace the flasher unit.

Not likely

why not just use the correct part?