Oldsmobile Intrigue

the knuckle part and it has to be greased. you just need to a grease kit for it and take it to a shop if you can't do it yourself

If it is the same as a 2000 it is part of the hazzard button.Disconnect the battery.Remove the instrument cluster by removing the beuty ring around it.Should be 2 screws.Remove the instrument cluster I belive there is 4 screws that hold it in.You should not have to disconect the wires into the instrument cluster.Now you should be able reach the hazzard button.There is a push button clip that you squeeze with your thumb and finger to remove BOTH the hazzard button and the cruze control button.

Rich

The PCV valve on a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue is located under the MAP sensor. If you remove the large plastic cover with 3800 written on it and look to the left side of the engine there is a sensor marked (Pressure Sensor) with 3 wires going into it. Unplug that sensor and turn it counter clockwise and lift it off and you will see the PCV valve under it. Here is a picture to go along with my answer. http://autorepair.about.com/library/illustrations/bl795lib.htm

You can just by a shorter serpentine belt it will be 83 inches. I just did it today on my 1999 oldsmobile intrigue 3.5 L and it seems to run better than it did even when the compressor was working. It it easy to install yourself you will needs a 1/2 drive to lift up the tensioner and you route the serpentine belt the same way except you do not go around compressor. It is easier to do if you get the overflow tank out of the way it will give you more clearance to work with. You really only have to to remove the top hose that goes to overflow and just move tank to the front of the car leaving bottom hose on. A little cooland will leak out of top hose so just replace once you have everything back together. The whole job can be completed in 20 minutes.

The winding spring breaks or comes loose from its mount. Sometimes you can disassemble the cover over the belt retractor and see what the problem is, such as a small rock or dirt holding up the mechanism. They can also just get worn out and must be replaced. The seatbelt may also get twisted inside the retractor and muck it up. While you are in there, clean and freshen the grease points.

It is in the PRNDL switch on top of the trans. It sends a signal to the ecm.

The firing order for the 3.1L VIN M, 3.4L VIN E, 3.4L VIN X and 3.5L VIN H engines is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The right bank cylinders are on the cowl side (rear) of the engine compartment and are numbered 1,3,5, left bank cylinders on the front side of the vehicle, are numbered 2,4,6.

The firing order for the 3.8L VIN K and 3.8L VIN 1 engines is 1-6-5-4-3-2. Starting at the front of the engine, cylinders in the left bank are numbered 1,3,5 and cylinders in the right bank are numbered 2,4,6.

by taking it to a 10 minute oil change place or a dealership.

With an OBD2 scan tool. If you do not correct whatever the problem is that caused the light to come on, it will just come back on again. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. I am sure I will revise this as time goes on, as it is an in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

The problem I have had is the base melting and charring of the contact from the resulting loose connection. This seems to be another common problem with intrigues and other similar GMs. I have found that using Sylvania bulbs hold up bestter than GE and others. My guess is the base material has a higher melting point. Be sure and clean off the contacts in the connector and inspect for damage, else you will fry the next bulbs in short order. I have heard several instances of tail lights and driver lights on other brands as well as GM having overheat problems.

There is, I think, a TSB on this condition that says the temp control door inside the dash air box warps over time and causes it. Common problem. The culprit is a design flaw in the temp controller, admitted by a GM engineer I spoke with. The sensor gets "confused" with the temperature in the car and decides the driver needs heat. The system diverts a flap that routes warm air and AC to the driver, while the passenger side gets only AC. If you can stand it, the system usually adjusts correctly after several minutes. There are several reset sequences floating around the net, such as pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery, leaving doors open, etc.. None of these worked for me. I have found that avoiding the "auto" setting by turning on the system by first hitting the outside air button, then the ac, then adjusting the fan brings the system up correctly, especially on a hot day (thank goodness). Make sure the driver temp is turned to 60

Nothing good, if it is coming from inside the engine I can assure you of that. Stick your head underneath and see if the clunking is louder from underneath the engine that on top of it. If it is, it's your big end bearings that connect your piston to the crankshaft about to separate. If you are really, really lucky, it is noisy because you are down to about your last two drops of oil, and throwing in a sumpfull might save em if you have got to it quick enough, but if your oil level is normal, well it was probably time for a new car anyway. Phil

remove the hub then remove the locking ringon inside of hub press hub and baring out then press hub out of inner baring surface reverse procedure to install.

Where? Be more specific? Try to put a bit more detail in your question top of the engine could mean anything.

take out the old one then put a new one in the same way you got the old one out

32mm or 1"1/4

Low refrigerant charge? Bad fuse?

Answer

Come on dude - give us a chance! There are obviously thousands of reasons something may not work..don't you think a little more info on symptoms and such would be advised?

No?...OK....anytime the AC doesn't work it means the entire system needs to be replaced with completely new parts...and it shouldn't cost less than $10,000 or you better worry about the quality of the job.

Or, maybe a nitwit needs to both start the car and turn it on.

Its on the firewall side of the engine, passenger side. Should be under the tower strut brace about 6-8 inches.

Sounds like you may have a bad alternator - check with a voltmeter A fully charged battery should read approx. 12.8 volts without vehicle running With vehicle running reading should be approx. 13.8-14.2 volts

Crawl under the car. Look for the exhaust pipe coming from the engine. The first object it flows into is the Catalytic Converter.

pull out the fuse

make sure you make a diagram first of your belt before taking it off unplug it from the backside and unbolt it.not sure of the bolt size start with 14,15,16 mm wrenches and go from there .just do everything in reverse to put together

beneath a plate that's bolted on,first thing you see when standing in front of car looking at engine

Engine running rough sounds like a sensor (possibly the O2?) The gauges pegging low sounds like an electrical short. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light should come on, so read the codes to see what it might be.