Oldsmobile Silhouette

The condensor is attached to the front of the radiator. 1. Make sure your A/C system is discharged. Remove the cross braces, water overflow tank, Remove the Battery and tray.
2. Remove the front lower air dam. Drain the water coolant and disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses from the radiator.
3. Disconnect the transmission lines from the radiator, front right side. They have a plastic collar that slides off the connection, then a release "c" clip that can be carefully pulled out with a scribe. Pull the line out of radiator. Have a catch pan to collect oil
4. Disconnect the A/C lines at the front left side of the engine compartment. Make sure you support both sides of the mount when breaking the torque. I found removing the air filter and box necessary.
5. remove the cooling fan assy.
6 Remove the radiator/condensor assy. The condensor will have a receiver/dryer attached the driver side, it should come with your new condensor. It must be changed when ever you open the A/C system. If you don't have it, buy a Haines manual from any parts store. I found my condensor for $139, most places wante $160 to 300. Good luck. I also suggest to have the coolant system flushed and replaced with regular antifreeze. The Dexcool will allow internal engine corrosion. Go figure.

The dealer and some parts are very reasonably priced

I had the same problem with my 97' model.It was a leaking fuel line filter just under the side of the van.

== == AutoZone has a nice step-by-step guide at http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/e9/79/0900823d801be979/repairInfoPages.htm If they change their site, the original answer to this question follows....

changed one in a 1990 just today,first off,the water pump will most likely need replaced,,if there the same<90 95> which in my research 1990 to 96 or 98are the same this is what we did disconnect battery then remove the panels right under your glove box to expose the heater core you have to disconnect the hose from the heater core from under the hood "very tight squeeze"then pull the heater core out from in the van and put new one in sounds simple but its not that took three to 4 hours and we are not done, know the water pump needs replaced.."good luck"if your hoses are the origanal you may need to cut them out."we did" you will be told to remove the whole dash to get to heater core we did not, be very careful with new heater core putting it back up in there, but it should just fit back in the way you took out the old one.maybe i can go out and take pictures for you..anyway if the 90 and 95 are different im sorry but i was told there the same so good luck "its a royal pain"if you have more specific question please ask. all yeah drain the antifreeze out the screws we removed were 7mm you need pliers you need clamps and possibly new hose

The fuse box is located in the glove box on the left side under another panel that should just pull open. The fuse box is located in the glove box on the left side under another panel that should just pull open.

Hello, Jamison here. It can be done, BUT, Its nearly impossible, EVEN FOR A MECHANIC. I have to disagree. I've done it many times for folks who cannot afford a complete repair. Usually, the reguator,or the lifting mechanism has broken or become disconnected. A temporary quick fix I have done requires that the door interior trim panel be removed for access to the window and its lifting mechanism. Once into the door, I manually lift the window back up to the closed position. Then using an already prepared WOOD WEDGE, I insert the wedge to "capture" the window. Over time and vibration, and bumps, the wedge may slip, allowing the window to fall back into the door. That's why I call this a temporary fix. I have also used one of those rubberlike/plastic household door wedges which seems to "grip" better. Although I've never done it, it should also be possible "prop" the raised window in position with a piece of wood/lumber [as a 2x4] if cut to the proper length. Oops, I forgot about the fact that the linkage may not be broken. If the linkage is intact, but the motor is "dead," then to manually raise the window, the linkage must be seperated. If it's not possible to open the linkage somewhere [as for example in some older Fords where the motor is attached directly to the regulator via a wormdrive gearbox], then simply remove the motor from the transmission/regulator assembly.j3h.

The fuel filter is located underneath (drivers side) of the vehicle on the inside of the frame. It is just about even with the aft of the drivers door. You will have to jack the vehicle and securely support it on jackstands in order to remove and replace the filter. Remember to relieve the fuel system pressure at the Schrader valve located on the fuel rail then disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before attempting to remove the filter. Do it in a well ventilated area away from any open flames. You will be working overhead so put a rag around the hoses before disconnecting them to keep the gas off of you. Goggles are highly recommended.

The first thing to check would be the 25A fuse for rear a/c and heat. The fuse panel is at the far right side of the dash. Open the passenger door to access it.

1-6-5-4-3-2

Typically the handle does not need to be replaced. If the handle is there but does nothing more than flop back and forth then a part, usually plastic, has broken inside the door. This part usually fits into one part and snaps onto another part. This combination pulls a rod attached to the door releasing mechanism. Oldsmobile dealers and some auto part stores will have a pictorial view of these internal door parts. Very labor intensive to replace.

On the driver's side underneath there are some brake lines that come down and then turn aft. Just to the outboard side of those lines there is a hole (about 5/8" diameter). With a light and an inspection mirror you can see the hose inside. Use an air compressor and an air gun with a long flexible or curved end and blow into that hose. I cannot guarantee that it will work, but it worked for me. Now I gotta buy a new blower motor.

If the guage is registering full all or when under half a tank it is a faulty sending unit. Cost is in the hu8ndred to repair.

Under the valve body cover on the left side of the transmission, on many models transmission needs to be lowered to remove the cover

The engine coolant sensor is at the rear of the right cylinder head on the 2001.There are several more temp sensors insdie the pass compartment.

There is no drive trace as a whole, however, some monitor cycles are similar and may pass through simultaneouslyCatalyst moniotor: Pre-req: no codes present, IAT between -4 and 176 deg f; ECT is avove 75 deg f; barometric pressure above 72kPa, STFT between -20% and 20 % -Idle vehicle 5 minutes until it is in closed loop -drive 5 min at steady speed above 50 mph -idle 2 min in drive (auto) or neutral (manual) *very stable idle is required to pass this monitor EGR Monitor: Pre-req: no codes present, ECT is avove 75 deg f; barometric pressure above 72kPa 1. Idle vehicle 5 minutes until it is in closed loop 2. Accelerate and drive for 1 min at steady speed above 50 mph 3. coast vehicle down to 20 mph (vehicle in drive or w/ clutch engaged, brake off) 4. repeat steps 2 and 3 four times * the GM egr runs during the deceleration portion of the drive trace Evaporative Monitor:Pre-req: no codes present, IAT & ECT between 45 and 85 deg f: barometric pressure above 75 kPa, fuel tank level between 26 and 74 %; TPS between 9& 35 %; evap solenoid is at 50% pwm within 65 sec of engine run time -Idle vehicle 5 minutes until it is in closed loop -drive 5 min at steady speed between 30 and 40 mph -stop and idle 2 min O2 Sensor Monitor: Pre-req: no codes present, IAT above 32 deg f; ECT is avove 167 deg f -Idle vehicle 5 minutes until it is in closed loop -drive 3 min at steady speed above 50 mph -drive 2 min at steady 40 mph -drive 2 min at steady 50 mph

There are two, to do so would be detrimental to your engine and confuse your computer readings onboard.

I had to to take the door panel off remove the window motor raise the window then put the motor back on

If you're talking about a headlight lens, as far as I know you can't it's glued together to prevent moisture from entering the assembly. A new assembly is only about $30. on E-Bay or discountbodyparts.com.

Quick disconnect. You can get the replacement part that is in the intake at Autozone. If you dont want to do that you cat replace the fitting with a old style one and cut the end of the hose of and slide it on.

There is a good article with time saving tips and even a video. Search on Google "Servicing GM Intakes".

Something to do with the transmission. Probably slipping It's the force of momentum being exerted on the car, the chassis of the car doesn't quite "catch up" with the engine itself without a transfer of momentum, or "jerk".

how do i replace the drivers side headlight in a 2003 oldsmobile silhoutte

it wont do harm it will ioncrease heat and fuel consumption but

In the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank & take fuel pump out from the top. This is NOT a job for an amateur.

It is quite possible that a wet floor on a 1996 Oldsmobile Silhouette is caused by a leak in the body that allowed rain water to get into the passenger area. Window seals and the seals around the front firewall could have been damaged enough for this to happen.