Pontiac Grand Prix

6 by 9 in the back dash and 6 1/2 in the doors

well, maybe you're having the same problem I'm having. sometimes the rear speaker's volume will cut out, and sometimes it'll come back on. seems random.

my brother suggested checking the connections to the back speakers for rust, or to see if they're loose. i haven't done this yet, but if i do and i can fix the problem, I'll reply back.

The process is the similar for all grand prix trim levels '97 to 03 Caution Halogen bulbs contain gas under pressure. Handling a bulb improperly could cause it to shatter into flying glass fragments. To help avoid personal injury: Turn off the lamp switch and allow the bulb to cool before changing the bulb. Leave the lamp switch OFF until the bulb change is complete. Always wear eye protection when changing a halogen bulb. Handle the bulb only by its base. Avoid touching the glass. Keep dirt and moisture off the bulb. Properly dispose of the used bulb. Keep halogen bulbs out of the reach of children. Raise the hood. Remove the two bolts holding the entire light assembly in (side marker, headlight and turn signal) located on the upper fascia support. Once these bolts are removed the entire assembly will shift to the right for the drivers side (when facing the vehicle) or to the left for the passenger side (when facing the vehicle). Once the assembly is removed you will have access to the wires/bulb. Position the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle body to access the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector from the headlamp assembly. Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle. Disconnect the electrical connector from the headlamp bulb/socket. Remove the headlamp bulb/socket retainer ring from the headlamp, by turning counterclockwise. Remove the headlamp bulb/socket from the headlamp assembly. To ressemble simply do the reverse. These instructions sound complicated but the procedure is not that difficult. If your bulb burned out due to humidity or water in the lens, then this problem must be remedied (Headlamp replaced $65 Ebay -new part)or the new bulb will be short lived. (courtesy of another posting) Hope this helps. "G"

The trunk release on a 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix is located on the floor, near the driver's seat. There is also one located inside the trunk for emergencies.

You need to remove the entire power steering pump.

There are two bolts holding it on at the 12 and 6 o'clock position.

Remove these via the holes in the power steering pump pulley.

(no need to remove the pulley)

Push the pump to the side and you then have access to the water pump bolt.

Hope this helps.

"G"

San Jose

Well, we didn't use the right mixture and now the "check coolant" light has been blinking off and on for the last year. I think we damaged the sensor because it is not running hot. The optimum blend for coolant is half distilled water and half coolant. Straight anti freeze does not cool as efficiently as a 50/50 mix. You did not damage the sensor. Sometimes the "Dexcool" (GM orange long life antifreeze) can "gum up" the sensor and cause false readings. The sensor is located on the passenger side of the radiator about 6 inches down from the top below a transmission cooler line. It is held in with a metal clip. Remove the battery to more easily access this sensor. Remove the clip and sensor -clean and replace. (I would sugggest lowering the coolant level before removing the sensor and be sure to bleed the system after replacing the sensor and coolant.) For more details on anti freeze check out the following website. http://www.phmeters.com/New_Folder/antifreeze_application_note.htm Hope this helps. "G"

its programmed in to the computer. u will either have to buy an HP Tuners module or order a custom reprogrammed pcm from zzperformance.com its programmed in to the computer. u will either have to buy an HP Tuners module or order a custom reprogrammed pcm from zzperformance.com

Maserati

The can be caused by the sensor getting "gummed up" by the "Dexcool" (GM orange long life anti freeze) The sensor should be removed and cleaned or replaced. It is located on the radiator passenger side about 6 inches down from the top below a transmission cooler line. It can be accessed easier by removing the battery (on the GTP) It is held in by a metal clip. Lower the coolant before removing the clip, clean the sensor and replace. Bleed the system after refilling with coolant. Hope this helps. "G"

Maybe integrated with hazard module

The difference in a GT, and GTP is that the GTP is supercharged. Which gives it 40 extra horses over the GT. GT1 means it a car that was realeased in the first half of the year.

On the back of the steering wheel there are 4 triangular holes. In these holes you may be able to see (but rest assured, they are there) four steel rods, non threaded, that have a steel bar holding them in place. You have to slide the spring loaded bar over out of the groove on the rod, two on each side, at the same time and pull that side off from the front, then do the other side and voila, it is off

I'm not familiar with your make and model, but the problem you describe is not uncommon with any vehicle, so this answer will be generic. There could be several reasons for a slow cranking speed, and I'll try to discuss a few of them. 1. A common [possibly the most common] reason for slow cranking is that the flow of electrical current is being "resisted" by something in the electrical system, and the most common source for that resistance is CORRODED BATTERY TERMINALS amd TERMINAL CONNECTOR CLAMPS. Although the lead from which the terminals and clamps are made is more resistant to corrosion that most materials, the harsh environment of the engine compartment and the sulfuric acid battery electrolyte combine to accelerate corrosion. The corrosion oxides, which form on the contact surfaces of terminals and clamps, are very poor conductors of electricity, and therefore "RESIST" the flow of current. As it take a great deal of power to crank an engine, the starter draws a lot of current, and if it cannot get as much power as it needs, it will only turn as fast as the available power allows. 2. Other locations at which this occurs, though not as often, are the terminal connector bolt on the starter solenoid[s], or on the starter itself. In both one and two, the first fix is to carefully and completely remove the corrosion [special round wire brush kits are available at most auto parts supply houses], clean, and apply a corrosion inhibiting film [special, expensive silicone lubricants, or ordinary grease or oil] on those components. Sometimes however, the corrosion can penetrate into the connector eylets at the cable ends, and cannot be effectively cleaned which requires that the battery cables be replaced. 3. Another cause can be that as wear of the carbon "BRUSHES" in the starter motor occurs, an accumulation of "carbon dust" interferes with the contact of the brushes with the copper commutator contacts on the armature. The reduced brush contact results in RESISTANCE which in turn reduces the amount of current which can flow through the starter, and weakens, and thus slows the starter. 4. Another cause can be wear of the bushings [bearings] in the starter which can cause binding and drag, which can slow the rate of starter rotation. Sometimes the wear can be so bad that it allows the spinning armature to literally "DRAG" on the frame of starter, further reducing the spin rate. 5. Another cause can be drag induced as the result of misalignment of the starter to the flywheel teeth. In the "old days," this even occured in the auto assembly plants, and they corrected the problem by inserting "SHIMS" between the starter and the engine flange to which the starter was mounted. These are the reasons which I am able to recall, and there are surely more which I have overlooked. Check the current draw of the starter. If the current draw is too high there is a real possibility that the starter bushings are worn. If that's the case you may have burned the armature. Remove the starter and have it tested at a reputable auto parts store that has a test machine.

Under the dash directly in front of the drivers' left knee. You can make it help you by turning it on then tracking down the clicking sound it makes. ==headline== Look under the passenger side dash, It is behind a plastic cover.

yes, the 2 door grand prix uses the same door from 1988 to at least 1996

1997 ford econoline wail traveling up hill ..it looses power.it looks like gass doesn't go through..the van kinda holdsup..what can it be

I Do my own oil changes on my Grand Prix GXP. I have seen many responses of for 6L. I add only 3.4.3.7L of Oil.. The Dip stick shows the oil level at the top of the hash marks (max) when the car is off. When I start the car and run it for a few minutes and shut if off. Check the oil level again level is at ( min) ..If I wait 5 minutes the level is at the max.

6L of Oil will over fill the engine and could cause damage...

Does anyone know the correct level.

The Kidd

Well it is apparent that all is not ok. The speed of the blower motor is controlled by the blower motor speed control switch and the blower motor resistor pack. One of those two items is your problem. I would bet the blower motor resistor pack is defective. The only way to know for sure is to replace it.

For the 3.8L supercharged this is what needs to be done. Remove the front lift bracket, the front dog bones , the passenger side engine coil bracket(it has the coils on it), remove the spark plug wires , remove the 6 valve cover bolts and pull the valve cover. When reassmebling use a torque wrench so as not to overtighten. (torque to about 89 inch lbs I think) Hope this helps. "G"

It has been a while but look under the hood on the passengers side up by the windshield. there should be 2 or 3 relays there in a little hole above the firewall.

just flip de key and try again, the key is to old get a new one.

K i will try my best to explain actually i just got done taking off 2 at the junkyard.but how you actually do it differs from the way the chilton or haynes tell you to plus it says you need a auxiliary spring compressor a $350 tool the way i did it i didnt need it.i simply took off the the whole knuckle off with the rear strut attached plus it made it a lot easier to replace the strut with it on the knuckle and the whole thing off the car.i found that it was easier to leave the leafspring bolted in instead of un bolting it and doing it the way the book says.i took off the hose from the caliper first.then i loosened the 2 bolts from each side of the knuckle but didnt take them off.then i unbolted the trailing arm.and then unbolted the top of the strut.then i took off the 2 bolts pulled back a little and the spring slipped right out of the knuckle and i pulled the whole thing off.do this to both sides of the car.then you unbolt the leafspring from the car and then your done with that part.to put it back on bolt the leafspring to the car.have a jack under the knuckle slide the leafspring into the knuckle make sure to put the bushings back in they look like an s then just jack it into place put the bolts back into the knuckle.connect the strut to the car then connect the caliper and there you go

The fuel filter is in the gas tank. It has been industry practice for a long time. You might as well replace the fuel pump and fuel sending unit while you're in there.