Saturn S-Series

It's not too difficult: First you will need remove the back seats entirely. Start w/ the lower part of seat.(the part of set you sit on) If you feel around under the front edge of seat you find 2 plastic pull tabs. There is one on each side of the seat. Pull the tabs forward one at a time and it will release the bottom back seat. Now to remove the upper back seat. You see 4 bolts 2 on each side and 2 in the middle. Remove these bolts (& put in safe place). Now to get the back upper seat out, you need to lift from the bottom of the seat up. Do this on each side and in the middle. There are 'hooks' behind the seat that hold it in place. Once you've freed the upper part of the back seat, you'll need to feed the seat belts around the seat as you remove it and it should just pull right on out. If you do not have the factory spoiler, then you'll you also need to remove the third tail light. To do this you'll find 2 bolts holding the third tail in place in the upper mid section of the truck. You kind of need to almoost get part way in the trunk facing up to see what I'm taking about. (not a comfortable position!) You'll then need to just twist out the bulb and it's wiring harness. It's kind of 'keyed' similar to replacing a turn signal bulb. You're almost there. Last thing to do is to remove the rear deck lid. You'll need to remove the 3 bolts and bolt covers in the middle front of the rear deck lid. The bolt covers snap open, and you'll see the bolts. Once that's done carefully pull the deck lid out. Once out, you'll see the speakers. They are standard 6X9 speaker housing and bolt pattern, so most any aftermarket speakers will fit in nicely. Some modification will have to done to the existing factory speaker wires. You'll have to cut off the Mitz. wire harness 'clip' and then manually connect + & - leads from the stock wires to the wires on your new speakers. I really wish I could show some pictures because it's alot easier than it sounds! Hope this gets you going. I put some Sony Explode series 4 way 6x9's in the rear and 4way 5 1/4" door speakers (had to make some modifications on the door speakers) A Sony Head unit, Pioneer 760W trunk mounted amp, and 2 JBL 10" diaganolly apposed custom sub. cabinet w/ plexi-glass window in front. It not only sounds great, but looks really nice too. Good luck!! darksidesteve

I'm not understanding the code of 20, your 1997 Saturn has an OBDII computer. you need a code reader to get engine codes. you cannot pull codes manually by shorting terminals A-B anymore. every one of your engine codes is atleast 3 digits, and should start with P. for example: a faulty oxygen sensor with no responce will show a code of P0134, or a EGR with insufficient flow will show a code of P0401.

Answer

My code book shows that an OBDII code of P0020 is a camsharft position actuator circuit bank 2. you have a sensor problem or your cam chain has stretched beyond the tensioner's ability to remove slack. I was getting camshaft position errors and had to replace the cam chain and tensioner.

NOTE: Applies to the 5-speed manual transmission ONLY.

The knob is simply an interference fit, pushed on. So it just pulls off. There are many approaches, but to avoid banging yourself in the head (or elsewhere), here's what to do.

Sit in the driver's seat. Put the shifter in neutral or second gear. "Lace" the fingers of both hands under the knob. Pull upward with all your might. Use your entire back (optionally, pivot your body at the waist), as if you're pulling a weed or pull-starting a lawn mower engine, for the most leverage. The knob will just pull off.

You may need to use a "set screw" on the side of the knob to keep an aftermarket knob in place.

The choice between Type R and Type E Alpines largely depends on the intended use. Type R Alpines are typically designed for high performance and racing, offering enhanced handling and speed. In contrast, Type E Alpines focus more on comfort and versatility, making them better suited for everyday use. Ultimately, the "better" option depends on whether you prioritize performance or practicality in your driving experience.

Step 1: Clean the radiator Step 2: Place a drain pan Step 3: Remove the radiator pressure cap Step 4: Inspect the pressure cap & hoses Step 5: Drain the radiator Step 6: Rinse the radiator Step 7: Add the coolant and water mixture Step 8: Bleed the system Step 9: Replace the pressure cap Step 10: Clean up. Step 1: Clean the radiator Make sure the engine is cool before you start. Your vehicle's cooling system sucks in air as you drive, which means insects, dirt and leaves can be pulled into the fins of the radiator fan. This condition prevents air from passing easily through the radiator, and can cause your car to overheat. Using a hose with a nozzle, a bucket of soapy water and a soft nylon brush, loosen the insects, leaves and other debris. Gently brush with the direction of the fins of the radiator fan, not against it. These thin metal fins are fragile and can be bent with this action if you're not careful. Follow this gentle cleaning with a gentle stream of water on the front and rear of the radiator. Don't turn up the hose to full pressure--a concentrated blast of water can be actually bend the fins of the radiator. In general, you should clean the radiator fins every 12,000 miles (19,000 km). Don't do it when the engine is hot, cold water can damage a hot engine. Wait until the engine has cooled before you start cleaning. Step 2: Center drain pan under the drain spout Never allow coolant to drain out onto the ground. Its sweet smell attracts animals that will drink it. Don't leave it to drain unattended in a pan for the same reason. Another way to protect wildlife from accidental spills is to use antifreeze that utilizes propylene glycol, instead of ethylene glycol. Antifreeze that is made with propylene glycol, such as SIERRA

4 Quarts

You have someone try to start it while you look at it. If it jiggles, Then you know it is too loose but if it dosent, then it is just your car battery

On or the other not both

nothing. only if it is a dohc or a sohc.

I asked the dealer this same question and the answer is, it doesn't come off. The only way to replace the knob is cutting it off. Actually, to remove the shifter knob on a 2001 Saturn SC2, all you have to do is pull it straight off the shaft. It does not twist or turn. Just pull it straight off. No need to cut it. You shouldn't even need any tools.

will saturn rims fit ford escort

Car lots, or look in your local paper.�

I urge you NOT to buy one though. I've got one and the only good thing that can happen to it is that someone steals it or it blows up.

Buy a Toyota instead

Car lots, or look in your local paper.

I urge you NOT to buy one though. I've got one and the only good thing that can happen to it is that someone steals it or it blows up.

Buy a Toyota instead

First thing that comes to mind is your low on coolant.

With my car, it was Heater matrix clogged with radiator sealant. The workshop cleaned it and it's start working fine!

transmission removal is a serious job, and will require many tools, and lots of time.

Lower:

first raise the vehicle and support it well using jack stands. make sure the jack stands are not under the subframe of the vehicle, but on the pinch welds of the body. start by draining the transmission fluid. from under the vehicle, remove the 6 bolts in the lower engine to transmission brace, there are also two 10mm bolts in the exhaust that must come out. remove the exhaust hangers from in front of the catylitic converter. Remove the flywheel to torque coverter bolts (automatic) Unbolt the passanger side CV axle support bearing housing from back of engine block. Unbolt the two lower transmission mounting bolts, one on the front of the motor, other on the rear. Unbolt the powersteering rack and pinion, remove the brake line fastner from the far rear of the subframe, remove the three 13mm nuts from the bottom portion of the exhaust manifold. unplug the transmission speed sensor, remove the shift cable from the nutural safety switch. the trans shift cable is held into the body of the transmission by pressure clips. they are a pain in the rear but you can get them if you work at them long enough. remove the wireing harness from the nutural safety switch.

Sides:

remove front tires. Unbolt strut from steering spindle using 18mm wrench to hold one side, and a 21mm socket to turn the other side. use a 18mm socket to remove the lock nut on the Tie rod end. The tie rod end usually is stuck in place, use a small 3 lb sledge and hit the spindle where the tie rod goes though. becarefull not to hit the tie rod. remove the axle nut 30mm. use a air hammer to push the axle through the spindle. Use a CV Axle cup on a slide hammer to remove the axle from the transmission. If these tools are not available, a small to mid size prybar fom underneith will work as well. this must be done on both sides. On the driver side, remove the two 10mm bolts in the lower transmission mount.

Up top:

Remove the air intake tube along with air filter housing. remove the battery. remove the battery tray, there is a hidden bolt in the driver side wheel well that goes through the body into the lower part of the tray, 13mm. remove the wireing harness to the top of the transmission (7mm) remove all the wireing connectors on the front of the transmisison. remove transmission lines from front of transmission, you can usually pinch the plastic ends together and they pop right out. Remove the dog bone arm assembly from the front of the transmission to the body. support the engine using a "T" style brace across the strut towers, and from the rear cowl to front radiator support. Use wire and tie the radiator fan shroud to the "T" brace. From underneith the vehicle loosen the two front frame bolts. from outside the car, on either side, loosen and remove the two rear frame bolts. the subframe does have some weight, about 60lbs, so be sure it doesnt fall on you. remove the subframe from under the vehicle. if you have a flat plate adaptor for your jack, now is the time to use it. if not, the transmission only weighs about 60lbs. as you loosen the two top transmission bolts be aware that the transmission will basically fall to the ground. Reinstallation is just opposite of removal. its time consuming, but after you have done about a dozen.... you kind of get used to it :)

5w30

by the shiter lever on the tranny.

5w-30 is recommended according to the owner's manual

most likely the clicking you hear is the lock acuator motors trying to unluck the car but they are worn so as they dont work. if this is what you mean then you have to replace the accuator

probably your ECM malfunctioning i just fixed the same problem on an sl1...it was a new starter... the starter over heats and is non op... or try a coolant temp sensor with new connector is a common problem aswell

Check related links below for drum brakes.

Quite easily take off the air breather tube then there is a cone shaped part with a connector on top at the back of the engine rightby the accelerator cable 2 10mm bolts hold it on take off the 2 bolts and the valve comes off

Your battery or alternator are not supplying enough energy. Get both tested at your local autoparts store.

Saturns 91-02 are distributorless engines and therefore have no ignition timing adjustments.