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Saturn S-Series
The first series of Saturn cars, the Saturn S-Series was part of a compact car family produced between 1991 and 2002. It was available in sports coupe, sedan level and sedan wagon variants, with either 4-speed automatic or 5-speed manual transmissions.
2,389 Questions
Right rear wheel cylinder (assuming you have a drum brake in the back) is a couple bolts and an oil line going in. You would need to remove the drum brake parts to remove it but a new cylinder would probably run around 20 bucks in an auto part store.
If it is a disc with caliper and it is leaking from the caliper piston itself, your looking at a new caliper which may run around 40 bucks. You may just have a line leak and in the rear it should be pretty easy to remove and replace with a new section.
Bleeding the brakes should be done for both rear brakes at the same time to be certain. You need to open the bleeders to do this. Be careful, use penetrating oil and plenty of time.. maybe a lil heat as well.
To clarify my question "14" means one quarter of the way...."12" means half way. I have a 94 SL2 and was worried about that gauge hitting the half way mark, but Saturn dealer assured me they 'run hot' (the gauge) and this is normal. I now have a bad CTS and it's only hitting the 1/4 mark. Seems it was not working correctly at that 1/4 mark, and the repairs fixed that in your case. If it heads into the red, you have a problem. Hope this helped.
My 99 truck did the same thing. these year trucks are famous for having bad fuel pumps. changed my pump and had no more problems
Where is the Oxygen sensor 0n 2002 Saturn sl?
You've got 2.
Check with your local auto shop - autozone, advance, they all read codes for free. It should tell you sensor 1 or sensor 2.
Sensor 1 is under the hood - front of the engine, at the knuckle where your headers come together.
Sensor 2 is under the car - right after the catalytic converter.
If you aren't very electronic savy, or if you don't wanna get too dirty - I would recommend getting the "exact fit" oxygen sensors - the universal fits aren't just "plug n go" you have to splice wires and it gets time consuming.. spend the money, get the exact fit.
Usually it will say something like "courtesy" It may actually not be in the fuse box. Geo Metros don't come with power locks. That's why it's not in the manual, somebody installed it after buying the car. Your best bet is around the steering column inside the driver's side kick panel. If you don't see it laying around, it could even be that a wire connection came loose, and the only way to diagnose that would be w/ a multimeter and taking your door apart and trace the wires that power the lock motor. Good luck. EVETONP@HOTMAIL.COM
I was told that this might be the EGR Valve either is clogged or going bad.
How do you change the front turn signal bulb on a Saturn SC2?
Depends on the year - I have a '95 SC2 and I have to lie on the ground and reach up under the bumper to find the socket. I twist the socket and it pulls down and out of the amber plastic housing. Since the cord to the housing isn't that long, I have to use one hand to twist the bulb out of the socket. It's really awkward, but I've done it.
How do you change the thermostat on 1996 Saturn sc2?
Two 10mm bolts hold it onto the block and an o-ring gasket seals it. It is built in to the neck where the lower radiator hose meets the engine block. If you are standing in front of the car look to the left of the fan and follow the large hose to where it connects to the engine. You can leave the hose connected to the neck and just pull the whole thing out of the way (being careful) and the thermostat sits in place where the neck joins the block. If you live where it does not "hard freeze" just remove it and toss away. It's only purpose in life is to not open until the engine is warm, allowing cool water to enter the engine block from the radiator. You don't need it unless you live north of the Mason-Dixon line. :-) Be aware you Will have some water loss as you open those bolts. This is normal. Just refill when you're done.
Changing fuel pump on a 1993 Saturn SL2?
I got this from Saturn forum , good site. good luck Possible "easy" fix for "S" series gashttp://www.saturnfans.com/forums Fuel gageRe: 93 sl1 fuel gauge don't read can anyone help?
There is no fuse for the gauge. I do not have a schematic for your year so I can not tell you what to check. Go to a decent library and they will have a set of Mitchels books or internet access to the data. Find the schematic and check the tank level sensor back at the tank.OTE: Fuel tank (and gauge) MUST be 3/4 or LESS BEFORE you start this!
Idid find a fuse in fuse box insid on passanger side down by left foot
What you will need:
I automotive type TEST LIGHT
(Available at Walmart or any autoparts store for less than $10)
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!! DO NOT make up your own version of this repair! Follow the instructions EXACTLYOpen the trunk
Slip the trim carpet away from side of the DRIVER'S SIDE wheel well and locate the THREE WIRE connector hidden behind it. This connector will have THREE WIRES (Grey, Black with a WHITE stripe, and Purple)
START the car and LEAVE IT RUNNING, make SURE you can see the fuel gauge through the back window easily (recline driver's seat fully)
Connect the clip of the test light cord to GROUND
Probe each of the three wires where they go into the connector QUICKLY, one (but not the other two) should light up the light confirming that it has a good ground. If it does not light up reclip the test light clip somewhere else and repeat until you are SURE you have a GOOD GROUND to the test light.
While observing the gas gauge through the {Get help For this}rear window , probe the wires again in the same manner until you find one that when probed causes the gas gauge to peg all the way over to the "FULL" mark.
Leave that wire probed (and the gauge pegged over) for 15 seconds and then remove the probe.
Shut the car off and WAIT about 10 minutes, then restart the car. If you have been successful the gas gauge should now be reading higher than it was before you started. It IMPORTANT!! DO NOT leave the probe connected for longer than the 15 second interval listed! If you do, you may wind up with a gauge that constantly reads too full!!!
Why this works:
Your gas gauge works basically by having two electro magnets fight against each other on either side of the needle. One side gets a basically consistant ground from the wiring harness that is always trying to pull the needle toward the EMPTY the other gets a VARIABLE ground from the sending unit in the gas tank that tries to pull the gauge toward FULL. As the tank empties, the signal from the sending unit gets WEAKER, allowing the EMPTY side of the gauge to gradually "win" this electronic tug of war. As anyone who ever took science in grade school knows, an electro magnet retains a partial magnetic field even when the power is shut off to it. Over time this residual magnetic field will remain/get STRONGER on the magnet that gets the most consistant power feed (the EMPTY side of the gauge) and NOT as strong on the magnet that gets the least consistant (or variable) power feed (the FULL side of the gauge) By giving full ground via this proceedure BRIEFLY to the magnet on the FULL side that normally gets only a partial and variable ground, you are "recharging" the residual magnet field that this magnet has even when the power is shut down to it. This makes it SLIGHTLY easier for the magnet on the FULL side of the gauge to do battle with the magnet on the EMPTY side of the gauge when powered up and in doing so makes the gauge read correctly (or more so) again.
What kind of transmission fluid do you use on a 95 Saturn SW2?
Mercron III
Autozone will get it off the shelf for you.
Why is your 1995 Saturn SL1 overheating?
There can be a number of reasons why an engine will overheat:
- A failed thermostat
- A worn out water pump
- A clogged radiator
- A blown head gasket
You'll need to narrow it down. There are a number of devices that can help you figure it out.
1999 Saturn SC2 error code P0341 camshaft position sensor a - bank 1?
P0340/P0341 Troubleshooting S-Series ----
Most of this came from TSB 98-T-49A, with a few of tips thrown in.
Both P0340 and P0341 both relate to the Camshaft Position Sensor (Let's just call it Cam Sensor from now on), the only problem is that the S-Series engines don't have a Cam Sensor, not a typical one at least. Instead, the DIS module watches when the #4 spark plug fires on the compression cycle and fakes a Cam sensor signal from it. The tricky part is that on a DIS waste spark system, spark plugs fire with their mated cylinders(1/4 and 2/3 in 4 cylinder engines) every time the cylinder is at TDC, regardless of whether the cylinder is on exhaust or compression. However, it takes far more voltage to fire a spark plug on the compression stroke then on the exhaust stroke, due to the compressed air (the more air molecules, the more air the spark needs to jump, hence more resistance to spark). The increased voltage needed on the compression stroke is detected by the "#4 sensing circuit" inside the DIS module for the Cam Sensor signal. If the resistance of the secondary system is not in the proper range or something else is affecting the voltage draw, the "#4 sensing circuit" will be unable to work properly.
In short, anything wrong with the ignition system and you have a bad Cam Sensor signal.
Next for the diagnostics, I'm converting this from a graphic map to a text format, so bear with me...
Step 1: remove secondary wires from spark plugs; keep the wires on the coil. Measure resistance from #1 wire to #4 wire and then #2 wire to #3 wire. Resistance should be 11k ohms to 45k ohms(YIKES that's a wide range)
If resistance is in spec, go to step 2, if not in specs, go to step 3
Step 2: remove secondary wires from the coil packs and check for corrosion on the towers and wires.
If there is corrosion, go to step 4
if not, go to step 5
Step 3: remove secondary wires from the coil packs and check for corrosion on the towers and wires.
If there is corrosion, go to step 4
if not, go to step 6
Step 4: Replace or clean coils and/or wires as necessary. Retest to confirm.
Step 5: Remove spark plugs. Check for carbon or abnormal wear and proper gap (0.040 in)
If plugs check out good, go to step 8.
If the plugs are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm.
Step 6: Measure resistance of individual secondary wires. specs are 1.5k ohms to 15k ohms (that's what this chart says, but my knowledge says 8k ohms is normal, greater than 12k ohms should be replaced)
If wires are in spec, go to step 7
If wires are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm
Step 7: Measure resistance from tower to tower on the coil packs (hold tight for good reading). Spec is 8K to 15K.
If coils are in spec, go back up to step 5
If coils are bad, replace as needed and retest to confirm
Step 8:(90% of the time I'll bet the problem is solved by now) Start engine. Perform under hood visual inspection of the ignition system, check for arcing (best done in a dark area, if you are inside a garage, be sure the exhaust is vented). Wet DIS module, coils, and secondary wires with salt water to provide optional ground path (arcing from the wire boot to the valve cover is possible, but would be hidden)
If arcing is present, replace wires or coils as needed and retest to confirm.
If not, go to step 9.
Step 9: Turn ignition off, back probe J3D03 (Circuit 633, brn/wht wire) at PCM with voltmeter. Connect other lead to ground. Turn ignition on, engine off and measure voltage.
less then 4.5 volts, go to step 10
4.5-5.5 volts, go to step 12
more then 5.5 volts, go to step 11
Step 10. Check connections in circuit 633, repair short to ground, retest to confirm
Step 11. Repair short to voltage in circuit 633, retest to confirm.
Step 12. Start engine, and observe voltmeter at idle
less then 2.0 volts, replace DIS module, retest to confirm
2.0 - 4.0 volts, problem intermittent
4.0 - 5.5 volts, go to step 13
more then 5.5 volts, go back up to step 11
Step 13. Turn ignition on, back probe circuit 633 at DIS module with voltmeter, other lead to ground and check voltage.
4.0 volts or less, repair open/high resistance in circuit 633, retest to confirm.
Greater than 4.0 volts, go to step 14
Step 14: Inspect terminal on DIS module for looseness or poor connection.
If terminal is bad, repair it.
If terminal is good, replace the DIS module.
That's the entire diagnostics chart, anybody who has done this in the past feel free to throw in your tips/opinions. I would like to add three things:
1. Check the grounding bolt on the DIS module for corrosion.
2. Be sure the secondary wires are fully seated, you should feel/hear a click
3. Use dielectric grease on the coil towers
How do you remove the drivers side door panel of a 1995 Saturn SC2?
there are a bunch of Philips screws around the permiter of the inside of the door panel and one under the inside handle (the one you pull to open) and two under the other handle (the one tou rest your arm on) and use a flat head screw driver to pop some retaining clips and pull up on the panel gently till it comes off.
How can you quick fix the smoking problem you have with your 1995 Saturn SL1?
Buy a car that isn't a Saturn
How do you fix a cracked engine block?
Sometimes, depending on the severity of the engine, the block can be plugged or welded. Most of the time it would be quicker or even cheaper to get a used or rebuilt engine.
What are the signs of a blown ring seal?
Blue smoke out the tailpipe--lots of it. If its a blown ring seal, then the oil is being "blown" into the air cleaner, burned up and out the exhaust. Also, the engine oil level will be next to nothing.
You may need to adjust the tension on the belt.
Can you use a car subwoofer for your Home theatre system?
While it is possible it is not wise. There eill be a mismatch of everything from the power to the load and this will ultimately damage the equipment. Most car speakers are meant to run on a different impedence that home speakers.
Where is the oxygen sensor on a 1998 Saturn SL2?
I don't know were it is located, but I do know there are 2 of them. An up stream & a down stream. I need to know were both of them are located,for I have a 99 Saturn SL2 DOHC
Where is the starter relay on a 1978 Corvette?
The starter relay is a smaller cylinder attached to the starter. There should be 2 red wires and a huge black one going to it.
The "78 doesn't have a starter relay. It has a starter solenoid mounted on the starter.
What does the error code P-0702 mean on a 2001 Saturn SC1?
Trouble code P0702 means:Transmission control system electrical
The above is a basic readout of what a OBDII scanner would display, Not much information can be drawn from that, just points you blindly at a certain sub system. Inside your transmission, there are transmission solenoids. Each solenoid (TCC, Pressure control, Shift 2, Shift 3 and Shift 4) ground wire is controlled independently by the PCM (engine computer) The PCM also controls the Ignition voltage (positive voltage) to all 5 solenoids whenever the fuel pump relay is turned on... so its controlled by the key being put in the "on" position. Trouble code p0702 is set when the PCM detects low voltage feedback to all 5 solenoids while the engine is running. Feedback voltage should be 1.25 volts on ground, and no more than 9.5 volts on Positive. there are 3 transmission fuses in your under hood fuse box. all labeled starting with TRS. check the fuses. at the top of your transmission, below the battery tray there is a wire connector held in place with a 7mm bolt. make sure the bolt is tight, and that there is no corrosion in the wire connectors. also, check the wires coming out of the connector and follow them back to the main harness. Saturn's have a tendency to have a problem with the trans wire harness rubbing through on the metal brace between the intake and block.
How do you fix it if you have a new caliper and it was leaking in the breeder screw?
It's called a "bleeder" valve 1st of all.The reason it's there is to bleed out the air and water that build up over time and even to bleed out old brake fluid from a car's system.It's always done if the brake system was ever opened,meaning changing a brake line,a caliber,a wheel cylinder in the case of older cars with drum brakes and if the master cylinder was ever changed.But NOT if just the master cylinder was opened to check for fluid level.If the bleeder valve is leaking,I suggest one of the following:
- 1:If it's leaking around the screw itself where it goes into the caliber,tighten it to see if it's a little loose.DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
- 2.If it's bleeding from the tip(it works just like the valve stem on a tire and acts like a check valve keeping the air,in this case fluid,inside and air/water out),you're may need a new valve.However,sometimes a very small particle of dirt may get inside the tip and cause the valve to stay slightly open resulting in some loss of brake fluid and the intake of air.Everytime you step on the brakes you will lose brake fluid and take in air.In the long run,the pedel will end up going to the floor and you won't have any brakes because there isn't any fluid.
- 3:If you do #1 becareful not to strip the threads out of the caliber.If you do,then you're going to need a 'Helicoil' which has threads on both the inside for the Bleeder valve and outside to screw into the brake caliber.Once the Helicoil is installed,the bleeder valve can be screwed back into the caliber and makes it as good as new.
Since you said that the caliper is new, if it is defective you should return it for a replacement before the warranty expires. As this type of defect, if it really is defective, does not appear until the caliper is installed and the brake fluid is refilled, you should be able to get another caliper at no charge.Whatever you do, don't try to repair the caliper yourself if you can exchange it.
How to replace ignition key tumbler in 2000 Saturn SC1?
Remove the cover from the strg column by removing the 7/32 screws from underneath. Pry off the ign cylinder cover...it just clips on. Put the key in acc position. On the top of the cylinder housing there is a button Depress the button and pull out the cylinder. Or there may be a small hole on top of the cylinder in which you need to put a small pick into to release the cylinder. For this type yoy must unplug the ignition switch and turn the key to crank and hold it there while you pu sh in the pick to release the cylinder. Then back to ACC while pullinjg out to get the cylinder out You now have access to the tumblers but you have to disassemble the cylinder by removing the gold coloured retainer
