Toyota Echo

You will need to plug into the car's OBD II connector and scan vehicle's computer for codes.

Now, repair the problem that caused the light to come on, then clear the computer system.

If the repair is successful, the light will stay off. Otherwise, it will come back on again after some driving interval.

You can buy cheap code readers on eBay - they will give you the codes and reset the computer (turning off the check engine light). You can take the code and look it up on the internet to see what it means and find help for fixing problems. If the problem is not fixed, the light will come back on.

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Also, you could: "disconnect the negative battery connection. Press your brake pedal down for 10 seconds. Reattach your negative battery connection. The computer will be reset." It worked for me. After changing my spark plugs my check engine light was still on, then after doing this my check engine light went off.

It is the ACC fuse

Sound travels in waves, when your in a big open space the sound can travel further without bumping into things as a result when the sound finally reaches something it reverberates and comes back to you.

One is a breather, and the other most likely connects to a device to measure the vacuum inside the airbox.

1993 Pontiac Sunbird Fuse Box Map

See related link which includes instructions for testing any O2 sensor.

$30 for heat/air conditioning blower motor.

$50 for radiator motor.

Double those prices and add labor charge if you are having someone else do it for you.

You really need to take it to the dealer to be properly diagnosed - they might be able to fix this for free, as there is a technical service bulletin related to this error code:

Engine - MIL ON/DTC 1349 Set

ENGINE

EG009-03

May 19, 2003

M.I.L. "ON" DTC P1349 - VVTi ACTUATOR

Models:

'00 - '02 Corolla, Celica, MR2 Spyder, and ECHO

Under certain conditions customers may experience a MIL "ON" condition with DTC P1349 indicating a variable valve timing (VVTi) malfunction. In some cases, the cause of this DTC may be the VVTi actuator.

If your VIN is before JTDDY3#T20056831

It looks like they replaced the camshaft/camshaft timing sprocket.

If that isn't it, then in general P1349 is a misfire or ignition issue under most general OBD-II - but Toyota spec'd OBD-II has it as a VVT malfunction. Unfortunantly - hard to tell which it is. Might be the ignition timing set too advanced (VVT-i issue) or low fuel pressure (bad or clogged injector, bad or low flowing fuel pump/regulator). An emissions test could tell you which one it is. If you want to try a quick fix on your own, I'd start with the basics, change the spark plugs, air filter, and maybe the pcv valve, all these are cheap and easy. Other things could cause the problem though, so if the quick fixes don't work, I'd lean toward the injectors.

Seafoam and other additives are very good solvents that can help clean the injectors - but may not be strong enough to clean off these injectors. Injector cleaning services generally don't work that well - best way is to have these cleaned ultrasonically or replaced (very costly).

Buy some Toyota antifreez from the dealer and follow the steps given in this link:

http://www.yarisfans.com/forum/yaf_postst178_Toyota-Echo-DIY--Coolant--Radiator-Fluid-Change.aspx

Or follow the directions below

DIY Engine Coolant Change/ Radiator Fluid Change

This is a DIY for changing your Echo's coolant. If you follow the 5,000 mile maintenance interval you should be changing your coolant every 30,000 miles. The coolant capacity ranges from 4.4 litters for echos with manual transmissions to 4.3 litters for echos with automatic transmissions. Until this DIY I have never changed my coolant before. It is so easy you are better off doing it yourself and saving the money. There is a nipple at the bottom of the radiator that makes collecting the used coolant extremely easy. I used Toyota coolant. It was about $25.00 for a gallon.

*Before starting please make sure you have the following tools:

--- a container to hold the 50/50 coolant/distilled water mix

--- some tubing ¼"Inside Dimension - you can purchase this at a Lowes or Home Depot

--- ramps or a jack and jack stands

--- a funnel

--- a gallon of distilled water

--- container to place used coolant in

--- new Toyota coolant

--- some rags and news papers.

--- a measuring cup

1. Drive up on ramps - this allows easy access to radiator drain plug. Carefully drive up the ramps. After driving up ramps set e brake and rear wheel chocks to keep vehicle from rolling backwards..

--- Pic of front of car while up on ramps

--- Pic of rear of car showing rear wheel chock while up on ramps.

--- View of radiator drain nipple after car is on ramps.

--- Close up view of radiator drain nipple

2. Connect ¼" ID rubber drain hose to drain plug nipple. - Then place other end of drain hose into the container that will catch the old coolant.

--- ¼" Inside Dimension Drain Hose.

--- Drain nipple with hose attached. Just slide hose over nipple.

--- Drain tube going from drain nipple to waste container. Make sure you use a container that can hold at least 4.5 litters.

3. Drain coolant. - Open the drain plug. It is located above the drain nipple. You will be able to see the drain plug from under the car if you look above the splashguard. Be careful to only unscrew the drain plug a little. Just enough for coolant to start flowing. If you unscrew the drain plug too far it will come completely out along with coolant and you will have a mess on your hands.

--- Picture showing radiator drain plug location.

--- Picture showing coolant draining into container.

--- Picture showing coolant draining into container.

4. Mix up coolant. - Using measuring cup put equal amounts of Toyota coolant and distilled water into the mixing container (I used an empty one gallon water jug with a screw on top). To mix the coolant I measured out 500ML at a time (1000ML is a liter) of coolant and then distilled water into the jug until I had a total of 3 Litters mixed at a ratio of 50/50.

--- Picture showing coolant mixing items. From left to right distilled water, measuring cup, Toyota Antifreeze & Coolant Mixing Jug with funnel.

5. Fill Radiator with coolant. - After coolant has stopped draining close radiator drain plug , remove tube from drain nipple. Remove radiator cap (engine should be cold, make sure cap is clean of debris so that nothing falls into radiator). Place funnel in opening and slowly pour coolant mixture into radiator. Allow time for coolant to drain into radiator. In order to fill up the radiator you may have to mix another 50/50 batch of coolant. After radiator is full put the radiator cap back on and fill up the engine coolant resevior tank with coolant to the full line Before removing the cap to the engine coolant reservoir make sure the area is clean so no debris fall into the tank. After coolant is to the full line in the coolant reservoir put cap back on.

--- Funnel in radiator fill tube.

--- Radiator filled with new coolant (50/50 mix).

After filling the radiator and reservoir tank you should run the engine with the heater set to hot on high for a little while. Then verify that the coolant level in the reservoir tank is ok. Add if necessary. After your first trip of 10 miles or so le the engine cool, remove the radiator cap and add more coolant mix if necessary. Then check the coolant reservoir and add more coolant mix if necessary.

This concludes my DIY for an Echo Coolant Change! Note that coolant is toxic and extremely poisonous if ingested. Animals such as cats and dogs tend to lick it up if it has spilled anywhere because it has a sweet odor or taste. Be very careful to not spill any. If any coolant has spilled soak up as much as you can with an old rag or towels and then thoroughly rinse the area with water. Because the coolant is going to be in the radiator for the whole year or 30,000 miles I prefer to go with the Toyota long life coolant. This assures that I do not have to worry about any adverse chemical reactions within the radiator (such as if you use an alcohol based coolant).

Below are the pages of the shop manual pertaining to a coolant change. If you have any questions or comments let me know. If you want to see any of the pics utilized in this DIY in greater detail click on the following link:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/56 ... good-times

--- Shop Manual Page

--- Shop Manual Page

--- Summary layout of the engine compartment for reference.

No. To adjust the drive belt, you need to slide the alternator back and forth on its bracket (which requires simply loosening three bolts (two at the top of the bracket, and one toward the bottom of the alternator). To get it nice and tight, you should put a pry bar between the alternator and the engine, push the pry bar top forward toward the windshield. Changing this belt and adjusting its tension is not a difficult job.

That 171 OBD code is for a "lean condition" (not enough fuel being added).

This is a common false-ish alarm on Toyota Echos and results in the check engine light coming on and poor engine performance. It happened to me and a a few friends as well as many on the net (Google 171 and echo)

In my case, I had poor fuel economy and poor power performance along with the check engine light. I took the car to the Toyota dealer and they charged me $90 to stick on a OBD reader to see code 171. They said the MAF needed to be replace for $130!!!

I immediately checked online and found that the 171 problem was common to many post 2000 Toyota's and was due to dirt accumulation of the heater wires in a MAF (my guess is that the EGR gasses somehow contaminate it). The solution was to simply clean the MAF heater wires by spraying brake cleaner on them (To remove MAF you just need to remove an electrical connector and 2 Philip screws) The MAF is on the air tube in front of the air filter. To clean, spray in the "straw-like tube" from the bottom of the tube. (You can see the heater wires at the base of the tube with a flash light). Don't mix these two wires up with the temp sensor amber glob (which is very obvious to see).

because before they were not dim

The heater could be drawing too much power or your alternator isn't producing enough.

There are two "recessed compartments" in the centre console, near the seat belt things that you click your seat belts into. (That is to say if you are sitting in the front drivers seat you would pull the seat belt across & place it into those seat belt stem things that are attached to the area between the seats) At the base of one of those compartments is a screw, unwind that screw. The other compartment requires you to lift up the covering to expose another screw that is hidden underneath. You must remove those two screws before proceeding further. At the front of the centre console you need to grab the console from the very front, near the corners on each side. Pull the console out from each side at the same time. This will disengage the console from its retaining clips. The console will then be loose. Don't forget to unscrew the gear knob (assuming the vehicle is a manual) which undoes by turning it in a anti=clockwise direction.

hey whats up person

You will need to plug into the car's OBD II connector and scan vehicle's computer for codes.

Now, repair the problem that caused the light to come on, then clear the computer system.

If the repair is successful, the light will stay off. Otherwise, it will come back on again after some driving interval.

You can buy cheap code readers on eBay - they will give you the codes and reset the computer (turning off the check engine light). You can take the code and look it up on the internet to see what it means and find help for fixing problems. If the problem is not fixed, the light will come back on.

-----------------------------

Also, you could: "disconnect the negative battery connection. Press your brake pedal down for 10 seconds. Reattach your negative battery connection. The computer will be reset." It worked for me. After changing my spark plugs my check engine light was still on, then after doing this my check engine light went off.

You dont , it is adjusted by the ecu and the "Idle speed control Valve"

now the idle speed control valve might be stuck , so you can remove it and clean it up with some carb cleaner and wd40 , it is located underneath the throttle body

Yes. You pull up on the buttons on the top of the seat back(next to the head-rest) to let the seat fold forward.

I just replaced the freon in my air-conditioner but it still blows warm in my 02 toyota echco

...Is there a possible problem somehere?

Yes.

Question already asked and answered here.

when i am driving my toyato 2001 Eaco stops running, it will start back up

To flush the coolant in a 2002 Toyota Echo you will need to drain it first. Flush with fresh water and then refill with coolant and distilled water.

No.

I think drive by wire wasn't introduced until 2007 (Yaris).

^^^

Correct , drive by wire was introduced with the newer "Yaris" NCP 9"+ models

The reset switch for the fuel pump on a Toyota Echo depends on the year it was made. It is either in the trunk, under the carpet, or it is under the passenger side dash.