Toyota RAV4

If your Rav4 is all wheel drive it is not tow able unless you use a flat bed tow truck.

The 2008 Toyota RAV4 has 16 valves.

The 2014 Toyota RAV4-EV has a 8 ft. 8.7 in. (104.7 in.) wheel base.

Arnold Clark's Main Office is 134 Nithsdale drive Glasgow g41 2pp.

With the key.

buckle up

The check engine light indicates a problem with you engine that may or may not affect the way it runs, the only way to tell is to have the codes read at the dealer or a parts store that will do it for free and use the information gained to affect a repair.

on the side of the throttle body housing. find where the throttle cables come up to the intake (should be a lever / cable setup right around where the air filter hose hooks up to the engine). Throttle position sensor is a small sensor hooked up on the outside of that housing. Usually 2 to 3 sensors, in that housing, most likely it is the smallest of those sensors.

whats the tension supposed to be on the 4age cam bolts

Check from underneath. they are usually threaded onto the block on the bottom somewhere.

The ground clearance of the 2012 Toyota RAV4-EV is 0 ft. 5.9 in. (5.9 in.).

Purchase a Purolator Cabin Filter. It comes with detailed instructions.

Pull internal roof carpet around aerial down just enough to access nuts. Loosen nuts to remove aerial body. www.displaypro.co.uk

I own a 1998 and a 2007 Rav 4, both with soft covers. The manual for the 2007 only shows the LTD and Sport covers- Hard Type- with the latch. To remove, start at the top and gently roll back the vinyl portion, and then work out from the center to the sides- the side portions have little or no elastic. Tilt out the cover, and with the rear door open, work the bottom portion out and off of the spare. To replace, reverse the process, by starting at the bottom with the rear door open. You must move the cover from side to side to allow the elastic portion on to work it's way on to the tire. As the cover begins to slip forward and over the tire, continue to position the cover. The cover can be adjusted for alignment by grabbing it at the sides and rotating it a bit, clockwise or counter clockwise. The are small dimples mid way down the cover on the outer edge where the painted part meets the vinyl, which are the level points so the cover is straight. Good luck, as writing about it is easier than doing it.

Its not the starter, its either the iginition switch (where your key goes into) or something wrong with the computer. JohnnyB

I helped a guy change mine (94 es300) and it took about 3 hours, but we were not professionals and had to make a trip to autozone.

As you are looking at the engine it would be on the left side in the middle of the block under the intake manifold . There maybe a small panel in the leftside fender well that has 3 or 4 10mm bolts that will allow easier access. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

The gross weight of the 2002 Toyota RAV4 is 3946 lbs..

I have a 99 Toyota RAV4 and my ASA certified mechanic told me to change it every 100,000 miles.

This is an easy task but it can seem confusing since you do not have a key to turn, like on other models. As you know, when you start your RAV4 with a smart key, you have to step on the brake pedal when you press the start/stop button before it will crank. To reset or clear the maintenance light, you will NOT put your foot on the brake pedal when you press the start/stop button. So, with foot OFF the brake pedal, press the start/stop button, you may have to press it twice to get the dash lights to come on, then set the trip button for the odometer to TRIP A mode. (NOTE: you do not have to hold the start/stop button, just press and release it.) Now press the start/stop button again to turn off the dash lights after you have placed the odometer to TRIP A mode. Next you will press the trip button and HOLD IT IN and then press the start/stop button to turn the dash lights back on. You will see the odometer display flashing dashes, just keep holding the trip button until you see 00000 and then it goes back to normal readings and the maintenance light is off. That's it. Hope this helps.

The 2007 Toyota Rav4 OBD 2 port is on lower edge of dash, right of hood release

the oil filter is located under the headers. right on the front of the engines.

Anti lock system maybe If this is a front wheel drive vehicle you may have a cracked axle,,,,,causing the popping noise when turned and under hard braking.

Well if the engine light is on, it usually means there is a DTC (diagnostic trouble code). You need to have it checked out and find out what the problem isthat threw thecode and how to fix it, or it will just pop up again and again. But if you just want it to go away temporarily, all you need to do is disconnect the battery completely (positive and negative cables) and wait about 3 minutes for the computer to discharge and reset. NOTE:that after doing this, the engine is going to run a little rougher than your used to as it has been completely reset (as if it was brand new) and has to relearn itself all over again. Hope that helps. http://www.rav4world.com

notes: i replaced my filters when purchased the vehicle at 65k miles. they were nasty. be prepared to clean a bit. i replace my filters every couple years.

the operation takes about 45 minutes for amateur like me, assuming there have been no significant changes in filter location & design or dash design since 2000 model:

1) purchase new filters. there should be 2 hepafilters per package. they're approx 4"X8" and quite pricey. you'll also need the following tools: Phillips & flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, vice grip pliers, flashlight, approx 12" length of coat hangar wire (optional), shopvac with needlenose attachment (optional), can of lysol (optional), ballpoint pen (optional).

2) empty and remove glove box - located two sliding pivots at bottom and outside of glove box door. slide the 2 plastic latches inward and pull the glove box toward you a few inches. locate the cable eye that attaches the glove box door to the counterweight. have the vice grips ready to clamp onto the cable that holds the counterweight, then remove the eye from the peg on the glove box door.

3) use Phillips screwdriver to carefully back out the plastic screws in the right side kick panel. you may have to remove one or two screws from the carpet edging in doorway.

4) looking at the side of the heater box, locate the vertical edges of the filters. the filters are held in place with a metal clip at bottom. its been awhile since I've replaced these - there may be one at the top, as well. use flat blade screwdriver/pliers to carefully remove the clips and keep them handy, as they'll be reused.

5) pull out the bottom filter first, then slide the top one down and pull it straight out. you may want to lay down a piece of cardboard or paper towels, these can be quite nasty. match the old filters to the new ones to ensure you have the right ones. if so, dispose of the old ones. this exposes the heater core, which is quite fragile. its also expensive and a real pain to replace, so be careful.

6) using pliers, bend a 90-degree angle in the coat hangar wire, about 1" from the end. using the flashlight to aim, CAREFULLY clean the slot at the bottom of the air box. use the shopvac needlenose attachment to clean out any filtrate that has been left in the airbox. you can use the lysol at this point to spray down that area of the air box, which is a haven for mold and mildew in humid climes.

7) open the bag with new filters and note how the edges fit one upon the other. note that one can slip in along the edge of the other. that's how you will need to install them. slide in the upper one first and hold it at the top of the slot with one hand while sliding in the second (bottom one). replace the clamp. if desired, use ball point pen to note date and mileage on the decal supplied with new filters. peel and stick the decal to the edge of the filter.

8) replace other parts in reverse order.

Good luck!

-j

notes: i replaced my filters when purchased the vehicle at 65k miles. they were nasty. be prepared to clean a bit. i replace my filters every couple years.

the operation takes about 45 minutes for amateur like me, assuming there have been no significant changes in filter location & design or dash design since 2000 model:

1) purchase new filters. there should be 2 hepafilters per package. they're approx 4"X8" and quite pricey. you'll also need the following tools: Phillips & flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, vice grip pliers, flashlight, approx 12" length of coat hangar wire (optional), shopvac with needlenose attachment (optional), can of lysol (optional), ballpoint pen (optional).

2) empty and remove glove box - located two sliding pivots at bottom and outside of glove box door. slide the 2 plastic latches inward and pull the glove box toward you a few inches. locate the cable eye that attaches the glove box door to the counterweight. have the vice grips ready to clamp onto the cable that holds the counterweight, then remove the eye from the peg on the glove box door.

3) use Phillips screwdriver to carefully back out the plastic screws in the right side kick panel. you may have to remove one or two screws from the carpet edging in doorway.

4) looking at the side of the heater box, locate the vertical edges of the filters. the filters are held in place with a metal clip at bottom. its been awhile since I've replaced these - there may be one at the top, as well. use flat blade screwdriver/pliers to carefully remove the clips and keep them handy, as they'll be reused.

5) pull out the bottom filter first, then slide the top one down and pull it straight out. you may want to lay down a piece of cardboard or paper towels, these can be quite nasty. match the old filters to the new ones to ensure you have the right ones. if so, dispose of the old ones. this exposes the heater core, which is quite fragile. its also expensive and a real pain to replace, so be careful.

6) using pliers, bend a 90-degree angle in the coat hangar wire, about 1" from the end. using the flashlight to aim, CAREFULLY clean the slot at the bottom of the air box. use the shopvac needlenose attachment to clean out any filtrate that has been left in the airbox. you can use the lysol at this point to spray down that area of the air box, which is a haven for mold and mildew in humid climes.

7) open the bag with new filters and note how the edges fit one upon the other. note that one can slip in along the edge of the other. that's how you will need to install them. slide in the upper one first and hold it at the top of the slot with one hand while sliding in the second (bottom one). replace the clamp. if desired, use ball point pen to note date and mileage on the decal supplied with new filters. peel and stick the decal to the edge of the filter.

8) replace other parts in reverse order.

Good luck!

-j