Toyota SR5

On a 1996 Chevy Camaro, the PCV valve is located on the right side of the valve cover. There is a hose that runs from the PCV valve and connects to the back of the intake manifold.

.2mm for intake and .3mm exhaust. or .008in and .012in when the motor is warm. not sure for cold motor.

On my right hand drive HZJ 80 Landcruiser there are also two fuseboxes. One is beside the battery. The other is just above the drivers right knee. On my 1992 FJ80, left hand drive, there is a fuse panel under the drivers left knee and an additional one in the engine compartment on the left front fender well along with relays.

I own one as well, i read somewhere if its a 4 cylender its around 120hp

Stock Toyota exhaust system.

On the left kick panel you should find a white plastic cover. In it should be your fuse box for your stereo.

Yes, it is an excellent truck. But so is a Chevy or Ford. Drive them all and see which one YOU like the best.

I think 2500 lBs.

I just did this to my 82. It is not the most fun thing to do. We'll start at the beginning.

There are a total of 6 - 12mm bolts that hold the dash to the cab. 4 of them are up against the windshield, and two of them are on the right and left of the underside of the dash on the most rearward portion screwed in the the vertical portion of the cab. Once you get those loose the dash will be loose for the most part. Now you have to remove all the trim on the front it and find the little screws that hold the radio in place and the ventilation controls (they are on the backside of the controls, you will need a shorty Phillips driver and reach behind to find them. It is nearly impossible to see them.) Now take a 15mm socket and remove the two bolts on the underside of the steering column and drop the column down. Once you get those out there are two more that need to come out above the other ones. Remove the bolts holding the e-brake to the bottom of the dash. Remove the four screw that are holding the gauge assembly in place and pull it as far forward as it will go. Reach throught the radio hole or the vent control hole and find the back of the gauges. There are 4 connection points. 3 of them are for the electrical and they will pull out while you hold the clip in. The other is the speedometer cable, twist and pull at the same time and it will pop loose. Now go under the dash and remove the ventilation tubing that goes to the two side vents as well as the defroster. They arent secured by anything. Now everthing is loose so pull the top of the dash towards you and then bring it up. It should come out now. Just remember where everything went. Hope this helps.

on the back of the engine under the EGR valve and the hose can easily be traced from the pass side of the intake mannifold back to the pcv

fix the problem causing them and than have to take it to shop so they can reset it with their scanning tool,

Follow the link and buy the book

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/toyota-pickup.html

Had this happen to my 83 Longbed. It was the generator (or alternator, whatever) failing. Shop told me the impossible combination was picked to show the electrical problem. Not sure if that is the issue, but a knowledgeable shop sould be able to sort it out for you. It's a bad alternator, yes, brake and charge light on is the classic symptom. Replace the alternator, or change the brushes if you're clever.

In 1996

Yes

fuel filter

6500 pounds.

After checking the manual I dont see any differences. It shows differences at 89 and 95 but noe from 90 to 93. At least not in my book.

PCV VALVE - Under hood, center, upper engine area, mounted in intake manifold

I'm just getting ready to put mine back in. its pretty easy. start by the right rear tire and un plug the wires and fuel lines that go to the top of the tank (if you can reach them) maybe take the back tire off to give yourself more room. if you cant reach them yet start unbolting the bolts holding the tank up, carefuly so you don't screw up the lines or wires (like i did) if you have a skid plate that comes off first but it's only 4 or so extra bolts. start at the front of the tank and drop it down so you can see whatever you didnt un hook already. un hook and unbolt the rest whatever way you can reach. if you have a pit or a hoist you shouldn't even be reading this. laying under it trying to locate the next bolt is the hardest part but gets easier as the tank loosens up. oh yeah........you might want to empty the tank first.

Should go something like this. 1. Purchase new parts.
2. Follow the upper Radiator hose back to the block your Thermostat should be there.
3. Get a 12mm socket and extension if you need it and the Ratchet.
4. Turn the Ratchet Counter Clockwise to loosen them and then remove them.
5. Now get a puddy knife or something from your toolbox to clean and remove the old gasket.
6. Place new gasket and thermostat on the engine (sealant may be required) and replace the bolts.
7. Tighten the bolt Clockwise to the required torque. For correct steps and other detailed info
[http://www.themotorbookstore.com/4runner1.html Get a Manual Here] Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

DOT Brake Fluid.

it should that would make an lt1 302 like the old z28 camaros

ABOVE ANSWER IS WRONG

The block is the same. The displacement of the 4.3 (L99)is different because it is de-stroked. The pistons and rotating assembly will bolt in the same as a 350 block. LT1s have little to do with the 305, aside from the external dimenstions the heads are also essentially the same but may requirew portwork to equal the lt1

My Chilton's manual says to drop the front crossmember holding the front drive axle ! You will also need to remove the front driveline from the front drive axle ! Chilton's book #68602 !

I assume you're talking about the wheel brake cylinders. There is one on each wheel. The two in front clamp the brake disks. The two in back are inside the back drums.