Toyota SR5

Put some air in the tires.

It's a button just under the dash by your right knee. Also make sure all your tires are within 5 Lbs of each other EVEN THE SPARE or it will trigger the light to come on again.

The Fuel pump is located in the gas tank of the car. There is usually an access panel under the back seat which will give you access to the top of the gas tank. There is then an access panel on the top of the tank which you will have to remove to be able to disconnect and remove the fuel pump inside. (It's better to do this when the tank is close to empty) Also in a 1994 sentra the engine should have multiport fuel injection which would mean the non-use of jets, instead they use injectors for each cylinder. The injectors are attached to the fuel rail whch is attached to the engine right above the intake manifold.

A PCV valve is a valve (or fixed orifice metering device) which adjusts airflow through the PCV system to allow PCV operation without adversely affection fuel metering. The PCV system moves air from the air cleaner through the crankcase, then into the engine intake. The function of the PCV system is to mix fresh air with contaminated air in the crankcase (contaminated by blowby gasses as partially burned exhaust slips past the piston rings) to then burn off the contaminants during normal combustion inside the engine. The purpose of the PCV system is to protect the oil from degradation, sludging, and acidity caused by exposure to blowby gases without venting it to the atmosphere (polluting.)

Such damage to the engine oil would tend to shorten engine life.

Most original equipment tires have wear indicator bars that will appear when your tread depth reaches a predetermined limit, usually 1/16 inch. It can be monitored with a tool called a tread depth indicator, or a penny placed head down into the tread, when the tread reaches the top of Lincolns head they are ready to be replaced. Look for unusual wear patterns like cupping, flat spots, and more wear on one side more than another as these indicate an suspension or balance issue that must be corrected.

most used engine suppliers can give you this information quickly. call around to junkyards in your area. if you have specific info, for example, will a v6 engine from a 1992 4runner fit in my 94 pickup?..... that could be answered.

those 3 cables are the same on all vehicles, one coming from the alternator, one going to the starter, and the last going to the fuse box.

I would suggest replacing it if someome stole it - otherwise if your car is young -look for causes of poor spark operations in the plug wires and related spark supply components. Usually, a distributor needs to be replaced when it is worn or malfunctioning and repair or rebuild of the distributor in no longer possible, or would cost more than replacing it.

There should be a button somewhere that turns it off. Question is, why do you want to turn it off? to the left of the steering wheel the are a few buttons. TRAC OFF press it, the TRAC light appears on the dash.

FYI: the TRAC system can only be turned off up to about 20 mph.

This is for a 2002 model, but it may be the same as a 2004. http://autorepair.about.com/library/pictures/illustrations/bl525a-lib.htm On the passenger side valve cover, is installed to a rubber grommet on the cover and conected to the lower lpenum by a hose.

Do check for power at the grid and make sure that the connections are clean. Many times these things are just dirty connections.

The curb weight of a 1986 Toyota Xtra Cab 2WD is 2,800 pounds. Curb weight is the static weight of the vehicle with all of its equipment and fuel loaded.

The PVC valve will be located in one of the valve covers. The valve covers are on top of the engine on either side. And it will have a hose attached to it which will lead over to the air intake system.

Its at the end of the LHS engine cover. You normally cannot see it in front of the engine. To access it, you need to identify the hose and then follow the hose by hand. Your hand should feel a hose clip which is connected to the PCV which in turn monted directly on the engine cover.

1. Remove the drive shaft. (much easier then trying this while the drive shaft is still in) Mark the drive shaft so that everything goes back together lined up. Drive shafts are balanced, so if two parts are put together a bit off, you may feel vibrations if the shaft is now unbalanced.

2. If these are the OEM u-joints, you might see white nylon pegs. (On Chevys since the late 70s) These are the "clips" OEMs use instead of metal snap rings. Just use a small drill bit to drill the nylon out. If they are metal snap rings, these must be removed. 3. Use a shop press to press the caps out of the yoke. First one side, remove the cap, and then press the other side out in the same fashion. Repeat until all the bearings are free. You can now remove the u-joint.

You can use a hammer if you don't have a press, but if these u-joint are old and rusty, you could be beating on them all day. I have a 20 ton shop press and there have been times when I needed all 20 tons to press these caps through. If in doubt, take the drive shaft to a shop that has a press. It should not cost very much and will save you a lot of time and trouble.

4. When putting in the new u-joint, be very careful when removing the new caps there are lots of needle bearings inside that could fall out and you will be buying new joints. Take the caps off of opposite ends of the new joint and put the joint into the yoke then put the yoke in a bench vice (or shop press) and press the new caps into place. Use a socket to sink the caps further into the yoke if needed. 5. Reinstall drive shaft

This is the COWL , high pressure area for heating and air cond to obtain air from the outside. Old school "Cowl Induction" to get fresh cool air for the carb. Bill

One is electronic ignition

85 was carbuerated..86 was first year of EFI....should be fuse number 8 on driverside kick panel.

Power options: Power Windows, Power Locks, Cruise Control, Power Mirrors, Power Seats

It is a computer that is installed inline with the bikes existing ECU. It adjusts the bikes fuel and ignition curves for optimum performance. It is easy to install and uninstalling puts the bike back to stock. No major modifications necessary.

first things first you must pull the oil pan then you can get to the bearigs you can get a set for about 70 dollars make sure that you have a tourque wrench so as to retourque the bolts then replace the oil pan and then you are set to go

mine is not a sr5, which should be the same, has 1

Jack up the front of the van and take off the wheel of the tie rod you will be replacing.

Remove the outer tie rod at the wheel end by first removing the cotter pin and castle nut. Break the outer tie rod end free from the control arm using a tie rod remover tool, or thread the nut off the top, turn it upside down and thread it on until you just see the top of the tie rod through the threads, then whack it down with a hammer until it breaks free. Note that you might ruin the tie rod end in the process. Tie rod end remover tools such as the vice type or the pickle fork type are not expensive. It pays to invest in one!

Hold the outer tie rod end jam nut with a wrench and unscrew the outer tie rod end from the tie rod.

Remove the clamp on the outer end of the rubber boot covering the tie rod using pliers. Remove the clamp on the steering rack end by prying the clamp off. Slide the boot down the tie rod toward the wheel.

Remove the pop rivet locking the inner tie rod threads. You should be able to get under its head with a sharp chisel or screwdriver and pop it out or mangle it enough in trying to be able to grab it with vice grip pliers and pull it out. Worst comes to worst drill it out.

Put a big wrench on the inner tie rod end nut and unscrew it from the steering rack.

TO REINSTALL

If you are saving the boot unscrew the jam nut from the old inner tie rod end and slide the boot off. Slide the boot onto the new inner tie rod end. This is a good time to install the outer boot clamp and jam nut on the new inner tie rod end. Screw the new tie rod end onto the steering rack with previously used big wrench and lock its threads with the Allen head setscrew or other locking device supplied with the new inner tie rod. Grease the new tie rod end ball with the grease supplied.

Slide the boot onto the steering rack, making sure to line up the pressure equalization tube with its socket on the boot. Use a tie-wrap or a thin worm clamp to secure the boot as you probably can't reuse the original clamp.

Thread the outer tie rod end onto the tie rod. Connect the outer tie rod end to the control arm, tighten down the nut and insert the cotter pin. If the cotter pin doesn't line up, tighten the nut more. Never back off on the nut to line up the cotter pin.

Put the wheel back on. Do a preliminary wheel alignment by setting the steering wheel straight ahead and taping a piece of string to the back of the back wheel and the other end to the front of the front wheel. Rotate the tie rod threading it into or out of the outer tie rod end until the string just touches the front and back of each tire at the same time.

Tighten the jam nut onto the outer tie rod end and put the clamp back on the wheel side of the inner tie rod end boot.

Head gasket could be bad

Broken switcher.