VW Vanagon

If all of them have stopped working simultaneously, then most likely you have blown the fuse. The fuse box is lower left of the steering column. The cover snaps off, and you will find a guide to which fuse is which, on the back side of the cover. Locate the 10 amp fuse for the Turn Signals, and use the fuse puller (plastic tool in the center of the fuse box) to remove the fuse. Hold it up to the light to see if the metal "U" shaped element has been broken. If, so simply replace with an identical 10A fuse - if you are lucky there should be a spare right in the fuse box.

"The turn signal flasher is located on the left steering column bracket under the instrument panel, next to the main fuse panel."

Hi, OOOH brother, what a pain these *&@#!! turn signals are. I'm currently taking a break from working on the replacing the entire turn signal lens housing on my own 94 corsica. The front right turn signal is the one that I'm currently dealing with. I don't know much, but I hope I can help at least a little. There is a small frosted rectangular lens (about 2"H x 6"W or so) just below the headlights on the front. The turn signal bulb is in there. There is also a larger rectangular hole in the center (just big enough to fit your arm in) just below the grill. If you reach all the way behind the turn signal housing, the fitting for the bulb is plugged into a notched round hole about 2" or 3" diameter. You twist the bulb fitting until the small notches line up (like a puzzle piece) and the fitting slides out through the hole. The entire plug (with all the wires still connected) can then be pulled to the central rectangular hole where you can reach it to replace the bulb. To put it back, just do the reverse: reach behind, line up the notches and gently push forward until it clicks into place. Good luck! Hope I didn't just confuse you. rebecca the flasher, however, is located under the dash near the steering column.

The reservoir for the back window is on the right side of the cargo area in the back: there should be a plastic cover that you can slip off and then you'll find a sort of twist top protruding from the side of the vehicle. If I recall correctly, the windshield reservoir is under the carpeting (you can unbutton it without damaging it) near the driver's left foot.

I just paid my VW dealer $469 for the 40k service ... they wanted an additional $315 to "fix" the "electrical problem" with my turn indicator lights. I said "screw that!" So the bastids gave my car back without an inspection sticker.

I looked everywhere for the flasher unit (some months ago) whenever the turn indicators ceased working properly (intermittent) ... then again before I took it in to the dealer ... but to no avail. I figured it might be well hidden up underneath the dash in some totally inaccessible location ... or buried beneath all that plastic shrouding underneath the hood ... but I couldn't see anything that looked remotely like a flasher unit.

So, remembering that it would "flash" once about every 20 times turn signal lever was flipped, I determined to find it. I parked in my quiet driveway and lay down with my ear near the dash and flipped the turn indicator lever until I got a single weak "click." It appeared to be coming from the "emergency flasher" switch ... you know, the one in the lower switch panel (flanked by the rheostats for the heated seats) with a triangular icon. That's it! The emergency flaser switch IS the turn flasher relay, too! Getting access isn't easy.

You need one of those fancy-smancy star-shaped screwdrivers (and a stubby, at that) to remove the 4 screws ... two at the bottom of the plastic housing in which the switches are mounted, and two more are revealed whenever you pry off the plastic trim that surrounds the rheostats at each end of the switch panel (yep, they just pry right off with your fingers ... pull TOWARD you). Once you have the 4 retaining screws extracted, you can pry the whole switch panel downward at the back, and free up a lip on the upper front edge, dropping the whole thing downward so you can access the wiring harnesses and back-sides of the switches. Pry off the wiring connector from the back of the unit (there's a plastic keeper, but just wiggle the plug & pull sternly and it'll come right off without breaking anything). Then push down on a retainer at the top front of the switch unit and shove it forward and slide it out of the switch panel.

This is the cheapest crappiest constructed switch I have ever seen on a German engineered automobile (maybe it's made in Mexico?). The trouble with mine was the burnt-up contact points of the relay. You have to remove the activator button (the iconized cap) off the front of the switch in order to get the case off (it slides right off if you pry up the edges with a knife tip to free the latches) to get inside for surgery. Doing some micro-surgery to clean the single relay contacts and bend them (with a very fine needle nosed pliers) slightly so that they once again touched when the coil was activated, solved my problem.

Wow! Charging $117 for this cheap piece of crap ought to be felonious!

I forgot to mention ... I checked several different parts houses for a flasher for my 2001 Beetle (AutoZone, NAPA, O'Reilly] ... but they didn't even have a listing for one in their systems. One said his only entry was "dealer item."

Here is the exact numbers from the side panel on mine:

[VW logo] PNT Germany ICO 953 235 WBS + D1 PA6.6 GF30 [a symbol looking like a musical note]

Hey ... hey ... hey ... found a VW Hazard Flasher Switch here for $22:

http://www2.discountvdubparts.com/parts/parts1/discountvdubparts/wizard.jsp?year=2001&make=VW&model=BET--004&category=P∂=Hazard+Flasher+Switch&dp=false

, THANK YOU, THEY Wanted to charg me about $250 and they say it was some electrical problem, i replaced the part myself for $30 thank you again.

It is located on top of the steering column under the cover. You have to take the dashboard cover off starting at the sides and down the front and take off the steering column cover. it plugs in from the back.

Here's how I did it on my '97 Tacoma which is a 2wd, Automatic, 4cyl, 2.4L (2RZ engine). The starter motor on this vehicle is located on the driver side and the best access is through the front fender/wheel well. First, disconnect the battery. I just disconnected the negative terminal and moved it out of the way so there was not a chance it might make contact with the battery post. Then, Loosen the nuts on your driver side wheel, then raise vehicle up as if you were changing the tire. Make sure you have adequate support under the vehicle, you don't want something to fail and come crashing down on you. Now that your car is lifted and supported, remove the front tire. Looking through the fender well you should easily see the starter motor. Once you've located your starter motor, finding the bolts should be simple enough. There are only two bolts holding the starter in place, one at eye level and another just above it. For the top bolt, I just reached down from the top of the engine compartment with a wrench and went to town. Its a tight squeeze between the firewall and engine but it can be done. Before you remove the bolts, disconnect the wires at the end of the starter motor. One wire is the clip in type and the other will need a 12mm (I'm pretty sure its 12mm) wrench to remove the nut holding it in place. Once you've removed the wires, use a 14mm wrench to remove the bolts holding the starter motor in place. I started with the top bolt because it was the hardest and second, I can support the starter motor with my other hand when it came time to remove the bottom bolt. Once all that is complete, the hard part is getting the motor out of the fender well. It can be frustrating and will take some "finagling" but it'll come out. Once the motor is out, take a peek into the bell housing and check the teeth on the flywheel (I just looked at the ones that were visible). Also, examine the starter motor itself. Check for any obvious signs of damage. Getting the new/rebuilt motor back in is easy, its just getting the motor back through the fender well again is where you might get frustrated. Installation is all the same steps, just in reverse. Good luck.

I saw the answer to this at vanagon.com - there is even a .pdf file about the Dometic refrig. if that's the one you have. Good luck!

The 2000 Ford E1 50 turn signal flasher relay switch can be found beneath the drivers side dashboard. The turn signal flasher relay switch will be about the brake pedal.

Here you go: http://www.vanagonparts.com/fuse_panel_86to91.html This covers 86' thru 91" VW Vanagon fuse boxes

Not sure if this will help (does the 86 have waterboxer engine?),

My 89 Vanagon has recently started doing the same thing: starts & idles just fine for about 4- 5 mins then sputters & stalls.

I've had stalling issues before and fixed them after lots of internet research: "capacitor fix" for the "Vanagon syndrome" (worked like a charm), holes in rusty exhaust cause O2 sensor to send false info to the car's computer, also broken ground strap or corroded ground wires. As I understand it, all of these things can basically "confuse" the computer & it then creates the wrong fuel/air mix resulting in loss of power & stalling.

But this is a new one to me... I've read that it could be the throttle switch adjustment, the idle valve, or the idle relay (behind the passenger side taillight). But based on the fact that the engine starts immediately, idles perfectly, THEN consistently stalls after about 4 minutes, my best guess is that the temperature sensor under the thermostat (or perhaps another temp. sensor in the engine?!?) is faulty and, again, confusing the computer with conflicting signals. Perhaps it takes 4 minutes for the coolant to reach just the right temperature to cause the sensor to activate.

Not much to go on but I hope this was helpful.

(PS-Anyone else have any ideas?!?!)

It should be right there on the fuse box. If you still can't find it, try calling a service center at a GM dealer.

That is a case casting number, not used in "what year questions."
Standard procedure is to look at the case serial number prefix. Cases without it or tampered numbers can be narrowed down by country code, oil galley sizes, and subtle construction differences.

Under dash on top of steering column

Look under the floor mat on the drivers side, and look online, you can probably find an owners manual that will probably answer LOTS of other questions you might have.

From what I've read about changing the clutch master cylinder the resivor is behind the instrument cluster (spedo) ;) you can follow the hose from the master cylinder above the clutch pedal.

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)

Remover the airbox, remove the plug wires from each plugh remembering where they go, pull old plugs with a 13/16th spark plug socket. Gap the new plugs wit a gap tool to .028" coat the threads with antisieize, and hand thread them back into the cylinder head, do not force them. Then after they are hand started tighten them carefully till they are snug, then 1/4 turn more. THATS IT!!!!, put the plug wires back on. Get a bunch of hippies, and some djembes and just drive man. Untill she breaks down again.

THE FLASHER ON THE MONTE IS UNDER THE DASH ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. IT WILL BE NEAR THE CENTER, BUT STILL ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. under the dash on the drivers side. just left of the steering colum. Its a little black box with white lettering on it. Its about a 1"x1" box.

FRONT SEATING AREA, DRIVER SIDE, UNDER DASH, DRIVER SIDE OF STEERING COLUMN, MOUNTED ABOVE CONVENIENCE CENTER. everyone should have a shop manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual(wiring diagrams and more detailed info) available in the reference section for FREE....make copies of the right sections, and fix it like a PRO!! good luck Dave :)

Belt

Do a google search for "Snail Trail"

The flasher/turn signal is screwed into the metal support above the fuse panel, you must take the bottom of the dash off and remove the plastic cover. this is for a sable that has light out detection. Any questions, contact chrisvolkswagon@msn.com I know for Real. Look under your dash. Look for a Blue Box screwed into the right side of the dash panel. This of course is done, with you laying on your back, and your feet in the back seat. It sucks to get to, but it's the easiest to access once your under there. It's a blue box, about the size of half a twinkie. Remove the plug that holds it in, unscrew the screw that holds it to the frame, and go to Autozone to get a new relay. You will have to reuse the metal piece that holds the relay to the dash panel, so be sure and save that before you throw the old part away. Installation is the reverse. Be sure to read through the Related Question below on the Taurus - great tips & info that equally applies to the Sable. Flasher relay is located, behind left side of instrument panel. The Flasher sensor looks like a little aluminum can, and is located under the dash (provided they didn't include a dash cover) otherwise you'd have to unscrew it first from all it's mounting screws. The can is mounted on the steering column up a ways, (best way to see is to put your head up there, while your feet rest in the backseat, it's uncomfortable but it works. You'll see two cans, left/right, turn your key to the "on" position, and use the turn signals, and feel each can for a clicking feel/sound. Don't replace that one, unless you don't have turn signals either. Henceforth the other one is the Hazard/Flasher sensor. Pull out the wire clip (it's easier if you slide the can out of it's holding clip, pop in a new one, and get upright before you pass out. Check all of the fuses. If they are good change the flasher which is in the fuse box on some cars. The flasher on most cars is located around the fuse box under the dash, or attached to the underside of the dash. It is a small round cylindrical Can made of aluminum, or plastic.

Its real simple to do get it on ramps or rims crawl under pass side under exuast manifold 2 bolts plus remove wires. 30 min job for home machanic.