you will probably need to change heads gaskets

By the fuse box over under the driver side up by the steeribf colum

You can take your driver's test in any community in your state.

"Type 1" - the "Bug"

"Type 2" - the "Bus"

"Type 3" - umm, well; it's a Type 3. You know, Squareback, Fastback, Notchback... Google "Type 3" for images.

"Type 4" - looks like a Type 3, but had the Porsche-style 2000 cc engine, disc brakes up front, and a lot of cool options available. Rare, and expensive to maintain.

TMI?

Usually left side of steering column either in or near fuse box

It's part of the mechanism contained in the hazard flasher switch module. It's really not just a hazard switch but a whole multifunction assembly for regulating activity of the turn lights -- L or R from the stalk, as a hazard set, and for alarm-set flashing.

The unit extends back about 6 inches from the little faceplate, so as you gently nudge it forward out of the faceplate (it's just a friction-fit), be prepared for how long it is.

The harness at the back has two plastic retainers, one on each side. See how they have to be bent -- very slightly and very gently! -- for the harness to slide out. BUT -- before taking off the harness, be sure to tie a cord securely around the wires behind it, so it will not slip back out of reach! (There is a lot of tension on it, as you pull out the assembly.)

I just discovered the above this morning, so I could check the continuity of the leads in the wiring harness, to be sure the wires and lights all worked and the switch unit really was the culprit, for my left-signal always on symptom. I'm glad i did check first, because the symptom recurs, when I connect the power (lead #6) and whatever is lead #9 -- so the way-expensive hazard unit seems not to be the problem (and it works fine for flashing all four and flashing right -- just not the left or all when the key is on). I'll have to ask you all about that situation -- but if someone as ignorant as i am the only one to answer the question I just did, I don't have high hopes of someone else answering my followup question!

I have a 1993 Lumina Euro sedan with a 3100 V6. I have replaced the starter. Of course, first disconnect the battery. The starter will not drop straight down, so I had to remove the oil sending unit which is located near the starter (toward the passenger side) and also the oil filter (similarly located). The, after removing the bolts and wires from the starter, it can be moved toward the passenger side of the car and dropped down. Put the new starter in by reversing the path. It's a little messy, because some oil will likely spill when you remove the oil sending unit and the oil filter, but that's how I did it. It works the same way on the 1993 Lumina 4 door Sedan, had a time finding all the screws for the plastic dust cover (for a lack of better words). Try to clean the area if you have had some leakage it makes it so much easier to work with.

I do have an e240, year 2003. but i don't know your question, can you clarify please.

Before removing any wires, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Label all of the wires that go to the starter and then remove them. Take a photo if possible to avoid any confusion. The starter mounts with two bolts. Simply remove the bolts and wiggle the starter loose. Once it is loose remove the bolts and pull the starter away from the engine to remove it. Installation is the opposite of removal. Be sure to inspect the starter bushing and add a little bit of all purpose grease if necessary. Fastener torque for the mounting bolts is 21ft/lb.

1991 was the last year that VW brought in Vanagons to the US. In 1993 the Vanagon was replaced by the Eurovan until 2003 when VW stopped importing them as well to the US.

under your dash. you will see a small panel under your steering wheel there should be about 5 screws drop the panel to the floor and look up to the left near the fuse panel but just above it. if you never changed it then it will be square (because it is factory) a replacement will be round. pull strait down to remove the relay then push the new one into place. turn your turn signal on and you should hear the common clicking of the relay. or if you don't know which one it is with the vehicle ignition in the on position turn on your hazzard flashers and then wait about two minutes. the flasher housing will get hot turn off the ignition and replace the relay. Hope this helps

Pretty sure it is in the dash. If you push forward on the instrument cluster housing it will come off and you will see the reservoir on the left.

Depends on which Volkswagen you will be flying.

The master cylinder is behind the the speedo cluster, pull on the top cover of the cluster dash to access master cylinder. remove the screws the secure speedo cluster and unplug wire harness to light switch,dash lights ect. I used a turkey baster to remove brake fluid. using a metric open end wrench remove brake lines, then remove the to nuts off the servo that holds the master cylinder to the bus. I stuffed old rages in the dash around the master cylinder to catch fluids or nuts if they fell. Remove master cylinder by pulling it straight out of servo then once clear pull up and out of dash. Most replacement cylinder don't come with a reservior, use the old one by carefully and firmly "pop" it out and install in the replacement. reverse instructions to reinstall. once done fill master with clean DOT3 and then bleed brake lines.

The CC system on a Vanagon is vacuum actuated; overly complex and thus failure prone IMHO. For fault you describe I'd start by replacing the CC control module; located (on my '91 Westy) behind the glove box (as in remove the glove box to get to it). There's only a few components to the CC system; the vacuum pump (engine compartment); the control module (indicated above); and the vacuum breaker switch (under the brake pedal). Vacuum pump and/or vacuum breaker switch failure (to include hoses) will result in decrease in speed or inability to set at all (won't hold a vacuum); continuing to accelerate could be caused by faulty control module. Bentley (factory) manual has good fault logic tree for troubleshooting system; somebody might have posted same to internet. Suggest Bus Depot or Go Westy for best internet parts prices (w/quality). Good luck!

Starter is located in the back of the engine attached to the transmission, it is held in with 2 bolts and 1 nut on a stud... disconnect the battery before you start or else you might get some good sparks... getting to it can be a real knuckle buster... good luck

check for vacuum leaks

it is under the dash driver side there is a fuse block i believe it on the top right corner it is roung like you probably think it is a small square black block pull it and replace

To change the starter on a GMC Jimmy 95 you must look under the truck and locate the starter. There will be a bar in the way of removing the starter. You will have to remove the two screws and manuver the starter around the bar. This will be tricky so take your time. Once you remove the starter replace with the new one and manuver back in place screw in and your done.

The flasher is part of the hazard light switch.

The seals and gaskets on your gas tank are aging OR you have a crack or microfissure in your filler gas filler neck OR gasket and lines for overflow gas reservoir are cracked and aging.