I learned a few things: You can of course (with the head off or by looking at the bottom of the pistons up through the sump) work out the timing (approximately but accurately enough) to see where the marks should be. And where they should be there will be a very obvious timing mark/spike on the engine block or head cover or something or at least a very obvious alignment of marks with each other. You know, when the #1 piston is coming to the top and the inlet is just opening and the exhaust is just about closed then that is the end of the exhaust stroke and then the intake stroke is about to start - well get the crank and the cams about there, then rotate keeping them in sync and you will see what I mean. Put the pully and cams in the right places (approx) before putting the head back on - less likely to bump piston and valve that way. Turn the engine over a number of times (the cam goes clockwise/forwards) by hand - you should only have very slight resistance from the pistons compressing air (so only twice for a rotation of the crankshaft pully). If you get hard resistance that seems to be from the cams when turning the crankshaft you have got the timing wrong - the pistons are bending the valves. Do not do bolts that go into the aluminum head too tight. To get the pully and cover on/off - just crowbar the engine over a bit. Oh yeah - those half moon shaped dents in the top of the pistons - that is to handle the valve overlap.

Hope that all helps

The crankshaft pulley mark on the timing cover is for the drive belt pulley, the mark at 6 o'clock is for the crankshaft cog (behind the pulley),there is a small dot on the crankshaft cog which lines up on the small mark on the small bottom timing cover. When changing the head gasket to prevent damage to the valves turn the crank back to the 3 o'clock position and when the camshafts are lined up (inlet 3 o'clock exhaust 9 o'clock) turn the crankshaft clockwise to 6 o'clock.

Here's a little information about this.

1. Most often miss understood is programing. Programing the button REMOTE portion of the key is simple and referred to as matching.

You do need 2 keys. You must be able to lock the drivers door and have the red led alarm light next to the lock button blink. If it does not blink, the alarm does not know the door is closed and will not go into matching mode. Put one key in the ignition switch, turn on, do not start engine. Close the door, use 2nd key, turn door lock and hold in lock position for 10 seconds. Release key to neutral position.

Press a button on the remote, within 2 seconds press the same button again, the turn signal lights will flash,

this indicates your remote matches the car system and is now recognized. Unlock door remove key from ignition.

So don't pay extra 99 cents to $5 for these instructions in hopes of getting the KEY to function with the car.

Instructions are only for the keyless remote, not the key.

2. If you've lost/broken both keys, and if you have the black tag that came with your car manuals, you can order another from a dealer.

3. Link for replacement or lost keys. http://haakey.com

It stand for Turbo Stratified Injection

TSI is pioneering technology for petrol engines. TSI engines are compact, high-powered and use less fuel. TSI technology blends the best of TDI diesel and FSI (Fuel Stratified Injection) engines.