* Disable the airbag system * Remove the center bezel panel from the dash and the plastic panel just below the ashtray * Remove the screws and pull the air conditioning controls/radio/Cd player assembly away from the dash * Disconnect the antenna lead and the electrical connectors then remove the screws at each side bracket to remove the radio or Cd player from the air conditioning controls/radio/Cd player assembly
I also have a 2000 maxima and I just put new rotors and pads on it. I found a really helpful tool at Checkers for around $9.00. The tool has the tip made to fit in the grooves on the caliper piston. The tool fits on a regular ratchet and makes adjusting the piston a breeze compared to using the needle nose pliers I used before I got the tool. The adjustment tool is also designed for use on other vehicles as well, so it's well worth buying. Hope that helps.
I have a 2000 Maxima SE and encountered the same problem. I could not get the rear caliper piston to retract. I tried draining fluid, removing cap from master cylinder, no parking brake, etc. I have not tried the solution suggested, but I will tomorrow morning. The solution/suggestion was found on Nissan Forums Bulletin Board at http://www.nissanforums.com/archive/index.php/t-90044.html To make a long story short, this is a quote from that page:
"You need to turn them back in. Get a needle nose pliers put int the groves and turn them back. I least that is what I have to do on my 99 Max"
Like I said, I haven't tried it yet, but will give it a try. Hope this solves our problems!
UPDATE: This is taken from the Nissan Maxima Service Manual:
6. When installing new pads, push piston into cylinder body by gently turning piston clockwise, as shown. Carefully monitor brake fluid level because brake fluid will return to reservoir when pushing back piston.
7. Adjust the piston to the right angle as shown in the figure.
In other words, adjust the piston until the concave portions of the face of the piston are at the 12, 3, 6 and 9:00 positions when looking at the caliper with the mounting bolts parallel to or level with the ground. The convex, raised portion of the face of the piston should be in an X position. I hope that makes sense. Now I know I'll definitely work on this in the morning. Good luck.
you will access it from the driver side, towards the middle rear . you will need to remove the air intake plastic cover to get to it. it's easy access once you remove the intake cover and hoses. the starter only has two screws, but be sure to disconnect your battery and power cable to the starter. I'm no mechanic and I've replaced it twice on the same year model and it appears i will be replacing it for a third time.
I may suggest you call the dealer. I asked when I bought my car about getting an extra key and they would have to order it for about $30 because of the electronic chip inside it. ** I found you could buy a 'chip' key on Ebay and have it programmed thru a locksmith for cheaper than at the dealer. Some of the higher end locksmiths have the computer to program the key. Also, when i checked at the dealer they wanted $90 for the key and $60 for the programming.
The question you ask is tooinvolved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, and get arepair manual for your car.They cost about $16.00Or, go to a Public Library.
First plan on about 1 hour to change the belts, you will need a tire wrench, jack & jack stands or a ramp, 10 mm wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, 12 mm & 13 mm sockets.
Jack the car up on the passenger side, use a jack stand and block the rear wheels. Remove the passenger side front wheel, remove the inner shield (4 Phillips head screws), working from under the car loosen the tension wheel nut and adjusting bolt, this will allow you to remove the a/c belt.
Next workin on top, loosen the top & bottom bolts on the alternator, then loosen the adjustment bolt. It will take some work to remove the serpentine belt, there is tight fit between the rear most pully and the inner fender.
Reverse steps, it might be helpful to have a friend to thread the new belt on.
I have had to remove the lower section and upper section of the back seat to start this process. To do this slide your hand along the bottom edge of the lower seat until you feel a ring, now pull this towards the front of the car (Remove lower section of seat from car now). Next there is a screw on both bottom sides of the upper seat section that connects the seat to the car, Remove these two screws. Now I found two more screws inside the panel that folds down in the middle of the upper section of seat. Lower the panel and pull the fabric retainer up and away from the trunk wall. These two screws were in the car at a ridiculous tightness, I literally had to get my biggest screw driver to turn these out. Once these screws are out then the seat is free and remove from car. Now the reason these need to be removed is because Nissan mounted the speaker grills right to the rear window deck. In order to remove this you need to remove the seats, and now the side panels that sit next to the rear window and hold down the rear window deck. These come off fairly easy, Just start at a corner and wiggle and pull until each bracket seperates from the car. Now the rear window brake light needs to be removed in order to remove the rear window deck. This I have not figured out yet how to remove without just breaking it off out of frustration (hence the reason I'm on the net looking for answers.)
UPDATE by 6eStanza
To complete the removal of the rear deck to access the speakers below, you need to crawl into your trunk with some pliers and a flashlight. If you look up to where the speakers are you should see a couple of white retaining clips. If you squeeze the exposed end with the pliers (careful not to break clips) and push up on the deck simultaneously you should be good to finish your project. Thanks a lot Nissan for making that so flippin complicated.
The center brake light mount is actually removed by turning the whole assembly counter-clockwise about 1/8 of a turn.
Try to use the Nissan speaker adapters plugs so you don't need to cut wires and mess up the electric system, you can get those from eBay or amazon.
'Where is ignition coil 2 in a 1998 Nissan maxima'?
Trouble code P1320 means: Distributor Signal Interrupt
There are three 02 sensors. The front left sensor is the forward most sensor, on the left bank of the engine. The next is the front right sensor on the right bank, the rear sensor is after the catalytic convertor. see below web site: http://www.courtesyparts.com/A32_O2-sensors.html
follow the top radiator hose back to the engine. There is a plastic housing held on with three screws that should be T30 torx screws. The t-stat is under that housing.
The speed sensor (transmission revolution sensor) is located on the left side of the bellhousing near the top. Access is through the driver's side wheel well. I'm at the wheel well and i cant see the speed sensor
Probably have a short in tail light or license plate light. It could also be a bad bulb. If bulb, see sources and related links below for bulb information.
# The EGR valve is bolted to the rear cylinder head,at the transaxle end # Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body and air filter housing # Detach the vacuum line from the EGR valve.Disconnect the EGR pipe nut # Remove the EGR valve mounting fasteners # Remove the EGR valve and gasket from the manifold.Discard the gasket
As you sit in the driver seat facing forward, it is underneath the instrument console to the left of the steering column and immediately above the diagnostic test connector. It's a blue box that you slide to the left off of its mount. Ford part # F67B-13350-BA, which you will have trouble finding at a generic auto parts store. You may need to get it from the Ford or Mazda dealer.
well if it is the Bose speakers which have an amplifier and it probably is than you need to buy not only the wiring harness but a 40$ cord from circuitcity they know what one and get the 17ft long one plug that into your radio and run the cord back to the amplifier which i still have not had time to look for i just found this out today because i am installing a aftermarket radio myself
It is easy but everything has to go inorder. Get a manual on your car from DISCOUNTAUTOREPAIRMANUALS.COM and it will help on the next repair and get you acquainted with your car also.
easy is relative. i don't alot of work on my cars but it's fairly straight forward. front discs are easier to change. i'd recommend changing with a friend. 1. loosen lug nuts 2. jack car up 3. take off wheel 4. make sure emergency brake is off, and remove it from brake assembly. it's a bolt on top w/a clamp and spring, and a bolt on the bottom of the arm. 5. remove 2 bolts holding caliper in place. pry caliper off rotor (i find using a big flathead screwdriver does best...wedge it between rotor and caliper) 6. remove 2 bolts holding caliper together and pull pads out of calipers...careful not to damage pins/shims 8. push piston back into boot so new pads will fit. this will require a tool. front brake piston can be pushed with a c-clamp, but rear requires a tool fitting the '+' shape. available in autoparts store...get a socket extension for your rachet too. (don't try to do with anything else, or you'll just get frustrated) turn clockwise and simultaneously push. 9. put new pads in, aligned same way as old ones 10. slide back on rotor and assemble everything in reverse order of disassembly
should take a couple hours.
it's mounted on the front of the right distributorkap
'90-'96 300zx had a Coil-On-Plug design.
(thus no distributor)
The ICM is located on the passenger side timing belt cover. underneath the intake pipe/throttle body piping.
Vehicle Used for reference: 1990 300zx (n/a 5-speed)
It's not good. You have to partially drop the steering to have the pan clear and take it totally out, especially if your oil pump is still installed because the stem with the screen goes way to the bottom of the pan. I've had my pan down several times, but I could manage to maneuver it enough to get in and clean the bottom of the pan, or remove the oil pump.
Go to Maxima.org and ask the question there.
The fuse is located either under the dash or in the engine department. If you look they should all be labeled. In addition there is a handy fuse puller located under the dash as well.
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It us under the hood to the right of the battery (labeled) once you remove the fuse box cover and yes there is a fuse puller under the dash.
How are you, My name is Matthew from Scottsdale, I too have a 2001 maxima and I love it. the service engine light came on a few weeks ago and I,m pretty sure it is the sensor. First off there are 3 of them. they look very easy to replace. If you pop the hood and look at the gap between the mainfold and the radiator you will see 3 wires one is blue, red, white. (if it is the same as my maxima) Each wire clips into this plastic holder (should be covered with electrical tape). The blue wire runs to the left into the mid part of the manifold about 8 inches from where it started. The other 2 (red and white) runs down the the bootm of the engine (yikes!!) But if you follow them down to the bottom of the car you will see that they are not really hard to get to. With a little bit of diligence and patients I think it is really possible. The one question I have is which sensor is the problem Blue White of Red? I work at Sears at night and I am going to ask if they can figure out which on it is and see if I can't replace it myself. No need to change a sensor if it isn't needed. But the question now is if it will still in fact shut off that Service engine soon light. Well lets take care of one problem at a time. I'm going to find out if they can't look at my car tomorrow. Until then safe driving fellow 2001 Maxima owner! Please if anyone has better suggestion please I'm all years.
Valve lash is the gap between the rocker arm and valve stem on cylinder heads. Proper adjustment ensures that a vehicle operates at peak performance.
homogeneous- same heterogeneous - opposite
a catalyst has no effect in chemical reaction. it only increases or decreases the rate of the chemical reaction.
Freind was told by our Nissan dealer chains last 150k on 2003 Maxima. His chain destroyed his engine at 128k miles. Metal shavings from chain got his engine, he even ran full syn & had all reciepts showing it changed at 3k like clock work! Take a guess who lost out?
Chains dont last that much longer than todays belts can, chains only cost a lot more to replace. Guess who wins more by our replacing chains vs belts, $1000 vs $230 in parts.
My 1988 Max had belt, at 439k miles I sold it. None of its belts ever failed, 110k mile replacements.