Chevrolet

The commercial I just heard had two different male voices. The second one sounds to me like Dan Futterman.

1.25

My First Chevy commercial - band: Way Out West , song:I Love My Car

No, the 600 will not flood a stock 305. I am using a Holley 650 4-barrel (Model 4175, 80555S) on my 1984 305cid LG4. This carb is a Q-jet replacement, with 6 vacuum ports, electric choke and vacuum secondaries. The car runs perfectly with this carb although my fuel useage has increased since it was installed. However, that may be due more to my heavy foot than the carburetor. You can use the Carb Selector wizard on Holley's website (www.holley.com) to select an appropriate carburetor. The wizard said I should use the 570CFM, but that model does not have all the vacuum ports required for an emissions legal 305.

The 327 cubic inch Chevrolet's distributor had points and condenser and not an ignition module. If you have an ignition module then you have a HEI distributor that was changed out.

I would suggest you call your nearest GM dealer and ask them. You can also purchase a Hayne's or Chilton's repair manual at any auto parts store. All torque specs will be listed.

It would be type O with parrellel ribs and a oval cover with no cut in's where the axle tubes are, and the cover is smooth with the buldge for the ring gear, also on the yoke it has the bolts with straps (doesn't have the U-shaped block) it also has c-clip axles.

Chevelle used the 8.2 Chevy rear through '72 in lower torque applications. If it's a 10 bolt rear & original in a '70-72 Monte/Chevelle/or Elcamino it should be an 8.2 Chevy c-clip rear. A very few late '72 Elcamino's received bolt-in axle 8.5 rears & they received a shorter driveshaft from the factory to make this set-up fit.

Note:

8.5 c-clip A-body rears were not used until '73 models in Chevrolet products & in occasional Pontiac A-bodys when plant ran out of certain ratio bolt-in axle 8.5 A-body rears.

Which seals are you talking about? There are many seals on newer vehicles. For this reason I am going to assume you are referring to the front axle seals. I am assuming this because that is a very common failing seal on Chevy trucks. The easiest way to replace these seals is to completely remove the front differential housing. It's not as hard as it sounds. 1)Drain the gear oil out. 2)Remove skid plate 3)Unbolt the cv axle from front end 4)Disonnect front driveline (You may also want to remove oil filter at this time) 5)Unbolt front end from frame and roll out of the engine compartment. Knock axle stub shaft out of front end with hammer to access seal. Replace seals one at a time with OEM seal only. Aftermarket seals are usually the wrong seal, and they tend to leak. Be very careful when installing new seal, and be sure to lubricate sealing surface. Be careful when removing the longer shaft. There is a washer near the 4X4 actuator that can slide down, and you won't be able to get the shaft back in. If this happens you will have to unbolt the long shaft housing from the differential housing and put the washer back in place. Good luck.

I would not worry to much about this noise when the motor is cold; engines have clearanaces that come together at operating temperature. If this noise happens when the motor is at operating temperature then you might have a problem.

Inertial mass (assist smaller engines by storing and releasing torque on take-off)

Vibration dampening (the make-up of the flywheel also lends itself to dampening)

Power transfer (this is how the power is transferred from the crank to the transmission)

Engine starting (this is where the starter teeth engage the flywheel ring gear)

Why don't you go to a mechenic shop and have them fix the problem.
The risk is if you put a bigger fuse or same fuse and keep blowing sooner or later you will blow some more expensive component, there is also the chance that could lead to a fire on the electrical system, and trust me sparks and gas they don't go along very well.

disassemble steering column,and replace signal arm ass'y

yes, its not a question of what will fit...its a question of how much money you want to spend.

first of all you need to know what kind of engine you are working on

Yes, if it will bolt up and the pulley is the same it will work.

Press the button.

If its the standard height, nothing. If they are screw in studs with tall nuts, then you will need tall valve covers.

Read the car manual, in the page were it shows the dashboard fuse panel find the radio fuse pull it out and put it back in with the fuse tool. This resets your radio, it did the trick for me with.

Good luck

AA

My email is Charzar93@aol.com

I Got my TB's CD player to work after I unpluged the battery then pluged it back it...try it it works

Hey Andrew==It isn['t uncomon for the engines to run 235-240 deg nowdays. Make sure the cooling system is in good condition and the cap is holding the proper preasure. GoodluckJoe

Probably valve seals but also check the oil drain return holes at the back of the heads, they could be plugged up.

Check your fuel pressure, your fuel pump could be weak or the fuel pressure regulator could be faulty....

You might also check the IAC valve, or TPS sensor. Do you get any service engine lights? It sounds like the engine may be running in open loop mode, where as the PCM detects a faulty O2 sensor in one of the three banks on this engine, until the exhaust gas reaches 600F the PCM disregards any fault codes sent via the O2 sensor.

It could also be leaking fuel injector seals, I had the exact same symptoms as described in the question. Had to replace the fuel injectors.

you either have an electric short somewhere so check all ur wires to make sure none of them are frayed, nicked or showing bare copper also check to make sure everything has a good connection. another thing is it could be that you have a bad solenoid and need it replaced

There will need to be more information to properly answer your question. Some have 4 bolts holding the axle and some require removing the differential cover. Be more specific.

Fairly straight forward. No engine swap is easy, but they are both small block Chevy's and it will not be that difficult. The Chevy 305 and 350 are the same block just bored out different. they aren't that hard to swap it normally takes about 6 hours if you have all the right tools and a buddy to help just remember where all the bolts came from and if its a manual its best to change the clutch now while its out now!

The header manufacturers make a braket that straddles over the front header tube, and will allow you to mount it there. See your local speed shop.