Air Filters and Intake Manifolds

On the Cub Cadet LGTX 1050, the air filter is located on the top of the engine, typically under a plastic cover. To access it, you'll need to remove the cover by unscrewing or unclipping it. Once removed, you can take out the air filter for cleaning or replacement. Always refer to the owner’s manual for specific instructions and maintenance guidelines.

To change the cabin air filter on a 2013 Toyota Avalon, first, locate the glove compartment and open it. Remove the damper on the right side and then gently squeeze the sides of the glove compartment to release it from the stops, allowing it to drop down. Next, locate the cabin air filter cover, unclip it, and pull out the old filter. Insert the new filter in the same orientation as the old one, reattach the cover, and reverse the steps to close the glove compartment.

In the Mercury Villager, the air filter is located in the engine compartment, specifically in the air intake assembly. To access it, you typically need to remove the air filter housing cover, which is usually secured by clips or screws. Once the cover is off, you can easily take out the old air filter and replace it with a new one. Always refer to the vehicle's manual for specific instructions related to your model year.

To change the air filter on an ML63 AMG, first, open the hood and locate the air filter housing. Remove the screws or clips securing the housing cover and lift it off to access the filter. Replace the old filter with a new one, ensuring it fits snugly, then reattach the cover and secure it with the screws or clips. Finally, close the hood and ensure everything is properly sealed.

If you check the RPM ranges on both you will see where they perform well. The dual plane intakes tend to idle better and run better at lower RPM's which is where most people need them to run well. The single plane intakes are hard to get to idle well and don't really start performing well until the RPM's are higher. For the most part they will shine mainly at the race track where you don't care much about fuel savings or having it idle well. I would be skepticle of running a single plane even on a stroker motor unless it has been built with a cam for high RPM's which isn't a very desireable traight in an off road vehicle.

It's likely you accidentally knocked a wire loose or something. If you can find the temperature sensor, check the wires. Also check all around where the air filter is to see if there's anything loose there too.

Manifold absolute pressure sensor, being hondas run of calculations to adjust fuel to air ratio (called speed density) they require this to calculate amount of fuel to use. This is on top of the manifold dependant upon year b18 head, Da's had sensors located on firewall. B20's have the exact same head cast and cams as a b18b head. unless your refering to a vtec head there is no difference.

No.

Purchase a Purolator Cabin Filter, it comes with instructions.

Are you handy with a center punch, and a drill? If so, the best way to do this is to drill a hole in the center of the stud, and along with penetrating oil, an/or heat from a torch, use an easyout to extract the broken stud from the intake.

the cold air intake changed your Mass Air Flow size, and your car will see, obviously, massive decreases in performance until it's fuel/air ratio is changed to accommodate the much leaner mixture. your car is tuned for the stock MAF, and that's why the stock one works fine. you have two options- 1. is buy another cold air intake with the same MAF size, or 2. take it in to get adjusted. once one of these happens, you should see an increase of about 10rwhp. so- I'd just get it tuned- after the fact, it'll still be cheaper.

http://www.tobio.info/passat/howtos/passat_air_filter.html

You have to be more specific brother, I am currently working on a 2002 Impala. There is a upper and a lower intake gasket kits. I am replacing the lower due to it leaking coolant. You have to take apart the upper intake and everything attached to it, that includes the power steering reservoir, the alternator bracket, the distributor power pack, the fuel injectors rail assembly and both the valve covers, yes it's a pain in the lower back just to get to the bottom of it literally, unless you are professional, you need to memorize all the bolts and nuts that have to be removed. I am helping myself by taking pictures with my digital camera. I am not done yet, since I work on it only on my time off from work and if the weather allows it. But I am ready to assemble it back. I hope this helps out.

Probably from blow by. Check your PCV valve for proper operation.

Provided Details as to what this filter was used on then perhaps someone can help.

FUEL WILL BACK UP INTO THE GAS TANK VENT LINE CAUSING THE COMPUTED TO THINK THERE IS A RICH CONDITION AND TURN ON THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON OR EMISSIONS LITE

As far as bolting up, yep, it's a go. Not certain how many, if any, sensors would need to be added to the block and/or heads. Also, the distributor will need to be the one from the TBI engine, since it functions as a cam position sensor for the injection/computer. A friend put a 1990 TBI 360 into a 1985 Chrysler Fifth Avenue after swapping the injection for a 4 barrel intake and carb, so I know it bolts up.

Low oil could be a reason for a blown head gasket. No lubrication causes more friction and metal fatigue.

A blown head gasket can cause many problem like coolant leakage and reservoir overflow and can lead to much bigger problems in a big hurry.

If you can't fix the car then you do have one option left, but remember that the car is still broke! Don't idle in traffic or drive it more than 30 miles or attempt this in the Winter when temps are below freezing and make sure you plan ahead and allow your car to have some cool-down time. If you have to use the car then here is what you can do to get by...

I had a blown head gasket on an '83 Ford pickup that did the same thing and it lasted until the body rusted out. What you can do is loosen the radiator cap to the safety notch. (DO NOT DO THIS IF THE CAR IS HOT!!! Scalding water will burn in less than a second!!! sorry.... gotta point that out) This will allow some of the pressure to escape along with some water. Your car will still continue to puke out water like it did before, but if you always make sure it's full before you leave again... you won't have to walk. Carry at least two gallons of water with you wherever you go.

Hats off to your needed repair cause that's a schit load of elbow greese right there. I give it 8½ tubes on my difficulty scale!!!

It would be best to get a copy of a GM factory shop manual for any W car that uses this engine and carefully follow the procedures described. There are 2 things that will make this job easier however. Lisle makes a tool that allows you to compress the rocker arms so the push rods can be removed (they pass through the lower manifold) without disassembling the rocker arms. They also make a tool that will allow you to rotate the engine forward making this job easier and provide access to the rear spark plugs. Also be sure to use the GM gasket upgrade kit and new manifold bolts and torque exactly to spec. Follow the procedures exactly as it is easy to assemble things out of sequence making the next step difficult or impossibles. I have successfully done this job at home and all fluid leaks were corrected. But it does take an entire day or 2. It is important not to treat these engines like an old iron V8. Stay away from them with the old air wrench.

Depending on the motor you may need to put a small dot of silicone at the corners where the intake meets the head of a V motor. 4-6 cylindar straight motors don't use sealer.

Sandwiched between the head(s) and the block.

35 ft. lbs.

Pontiac Sunfire about a 2000-ish or later, as i recall.

heades, bigger cam, valve springs....all depends on what you want to do with it