Auto Body and Interiors

something with the AC contact a Lincoln dealer and they can tell you more about what you need to do. you will most likely have to take it to the shop.

Depends on what you mean - a repair manual or the Owners Manual.

See "Related Questions" below for more about each.

Bondo is the industry standard.

It depends on the door and the car. Some use specially designed shims, others slide and are adjusted by loosening the mounting bolts while others still are carefully "bent" as needed to adjust the door.

Paintless dent repair (PDR), also known as "paintless dent Repair", is a collection of techniques for removing minor dents and dings from the body of a motor vehicle. A wide range of damage can be repaired using Paintless Dent Removal; however, usually if there is paint damage, Paintless Dent Removal may be unsuitable.

The most common practical use for PDR is the repair of hail damage, door dings, minor body creases, and minor bumper indentations. The techniques can also be applied to help prepare the damaged panel for paint. Such applications are referred to as "push to paint", or "push for paint".

Limiting factors for a successful repair using Paintless dent repair include the flexibility of the paint, and the amount the metal has been stretched by the damage incurred. Hence, often extremely sharp dents and creases may not be repairable - at least not without painting afterwards.

The most common methods of paintless repair utilize metal rods and body picks to push the dents out from the inner side of the body panel being repaired. Also, glue may be used from the outside of the panel to pull the dents out. In either case, fine-tuning of the repair often involves "tapping" down the repair to remove small high spots, making the surface flat. Paintless dent repair may be used on both aluminum and steel panels. If a technician pushes too hard when creating these high spots, the paint will split and the repair is ruined. Quality paintless dent removal technicians can use these high spots that are barely visible to match the texture of the paint.

No, a Lexus 300 SE does not allow access to the trunk through the back seats. The only way to get this would be to customize the car yourself.

Passenger side mirrors were optional. Some were mechanically (not powered) remote controlled.

Its called a cowl

rust means a iron metal is changing the form of color and smell because when smell it and turns bad odor or bad smell and turn to chemical changes

The front of the seat section lifts up. It's generally in quite tight so it will take a little effort. Once the front of the seat section lifts you can pull the seat forward then move it out one of the doors. At that point you will see two bolts that go through the "eyes" of a couple metal rods. Pull the bolts, lift UP on the seat back and it will come out.

Usually you need to purchase a pronged interior tool at your local parts store.........it will look like a twoheaded screwdriver. The car door will have Plastic round caps that are flanged on the backside. These usually break but can be bought at a parts store as well. Sometimes they are reusable......takes a little force

I just recently had to remover the drivers side panel of a 1998 Malibu. I went to an auto store and bought a tool that would easily remove the "hard to see clip" that holds the window crank on. One has to turn the window crank just right to see the clip and also to insert the "tool" between the crank and the door panel. The tool was only about $7 and was well worth it. It has two ends. One to "remove" the clip (acutally one doesn't remove the clip but the tool is made to push the clip back far enough for the crank to be removed) then the other end is used to push the clip back into place when the crank is put back on. The clip is a wire that is located between the crank and the door panel but lays directly next to the window crank.

try to vacuum out the water remaining. carefully Remove the leather by either unzipping or carefully cutting the leather. replace or steam clean the inside padding then replace the leather.

Go to this website for description and photos. Copy and paste into your web browser if link isn't highlighted. http://www.autoclinix.com/Expedition/Ford_Rear_AC.php

Any hardware store will carry (Acetone) almost like paint thinner. use it on a rag it comes off no problem

Rust proofing your car is easy with the right products.Today's vehicles are manufactured with good corrosion protection … rust problems have almost vanished in modern vehicles," Consumer Reports says its annual auto surveys show. "Standard rust-through warranties for most domestic and imported vehicles run five years or more." You can buy rust proofing products from noxudolusa.com and you can rust proof your car by yourself

Audi, Porsche, Volkswagen, Mercedes, BMW

I recommend first trying to buff it out with a power buffer, but if that doesn't work there is another option. There is a paint cleaner made by the same company that makes "Goo Gone" it is called "Goof Off" (Seriously)(Sold in any major hardware store) It is a paint STRIPPER, so be very careful not to spill any where you do not intend to. What you will want to do is find the softest, cleanest rag you can find, and apply SMALL amounts of "Goof Off" to the rag, and buff the undesired paint out with small circles. Be cautioned tho because too much "Goof Off" and over-zealous buffing WILL take the factory paint right off of your car. In between your factory paint and your "Pole Paint" there are several layers of Clear coat finish applied to your paint job, this is what gives the paint it's glossy finish...you can usually get away with removing a layer or two of the clear coat without too much noticeability, but even then you can mask any small problem areas with buffing wax. I hope this helps you out, I have had three cars spray painted in my driveway by little punks in my neighborhood, (not all of them owned by me) and used "Goof Off" to remove it and it worked fine. Just take your time...patience is the key, and don't use too much or you may be even more upset with the end results.

What worked best for me was a "Mr Clean" sponge and a lot of elbow grease. I successfully removed a very large area (approximately 2 ft x 1 ft) of red paint from my white vehicle using nothing more than the two ingredients listed above. I backed into one of the large red posts seen in front of many Target stores, no dents thankfully, but plenty of red paint was taken home. The "Mr Clean" sponge took it right off, leaving the paint underneath only slightly more dull than the unaffected areas surrounding it. That can easily be remedied with a good wash and wax. Hope this helps...

No.

Any auto parts store should have a rack of DORMAN fasteners. You can find the part number at www.dormanproducts.com

remove the rust by sanding or grinding. prevent future rust with an inhibitor, weld in a new piece of metal, and/or use fiberglass to fiz the hole. use a polyester fiber fill ( plastic body filler), to fill any divots. sand and prepare for refinishing.

Basically a "tune up" in a car today simply is an oil change,air filter change and chassis lubrication. Checking all fluids,etc. If the car has less than 100,000 miles on it, it DOES NOT need spark plugs unless there is a problem with the way it runs. It should cost you no more than $300 and that would be with a radiator flush and new coolant.

Side Note: That is if you take it to a regular mechanic. If you take it to a dealer, expect to pay $500.

I don't believe that the model traffic code permits vehicle underlighting in ANY state.

Phone book

Yes, if camber is not right the tire will wear prematurely.

Years ago I have 93 ranger. In it you would pry the shift pattern plastic thing out of the stick and there was a screw or nut (been so long cant remember which one now). That is how I changed mine.