Brake Pads and Rotors

Remove the tire and wheel from your 1986 Mercedes-Benz 420. Remove the brake pad spring and caliper. Reverse the process to install the new front brake pads.

Basic tools are required, a jack to lift the car off the ground and a jack stand to insure safety, once off the ground and supported you will need to get a socket or commonly called(lug Wrench) with 19mm or 21mm socket head depending on your lug size. It is usually easier to lift and support both sides at the same time with the car in park emergency brake set key on so the steering wheel isn't locked. Then once wheels are off you will need a 17 mm wrench/ socket to remove the brake caliper bracket. Once done you should loosen the bleeder valve with either a 8,9 or 10 mm wrench depending on the model, carefully not to get air into the system, and depress the caliper using a tool sold at any kragen or auto parts retailer for about 5 bucks. Imediatly when it bottoms out you should tighten the bleed screw to prevent any air from getting in the system. It is useful to have the master cylinder cap off so any fluid that is not needed in the system can be drained out. It also helps to leave the inner brake pad installed (clipped on) when depressing the caliper so you know when you are getting close to bottoming out the caliper. Next you will need a 13,or 14mm wrench to take the caliper apart to install your new pads. Make sure you use anti-squeak brake adheasive to prevent the loud embaressing noise when brakes are applied. It should be a free floating brake rotor that can come off using minimal force.( should slide right off). You then have your rotors measured for proper spec.s to see if they can be turned or just buy new rotors and replace as needed. (note: turning rotors at a local machine shop can save you money but can take up most of the day trying to find someone to turn them and then having them turned, also new rotors are thicker and disapates heat better allowing your brakes to last longer and are only about 10-15 bucks a side more exspensive then having them turned). Repeat the steps backwards making sure you clean all parts with brake clean to prevent squeaks. Good luck.

Its actually a torex head you need... not sure of size yet. Its a T-50 Torex.

replace rear axle bearing

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you need to use a rear brake caliper piston turning tool... you can't use the push method... the piston have to be turned as they screw out as the pads wear. i found out the hard way.. i broke 2 c-clamps...

in order to remove the rear caliper, you first remove the parking brake cable using a 14mm socket to remove the bolt. After removing the parking brake you can remove the caliper carrier, using a 17mm socket to remove the two caliper carrier bols this allows you to remove the caliper from the rear rotor, you can slide the caliper off of the carrier to remove it completely. to remove the rotor you can use a soft faced mallet and gently tap the inside of it and it should come right off.

Main component of car brake system to stop your car.

Many cars called 'Town and country", at least 2 Chevy,3 Fords, 4 Plymouth and who knows what else. Be more specific, full name and year at least.

Here is a video on changing rear brakes (rotors/pads) on a VW Passat. This video applies to the 1998-2005 VW Passat and 1996-2001 Audi A4.

Paste this URL into your browser or click on the link in "Sources and related Links" below...

http://youtu.be/jRSC2bEXYzs

if they work loose, the tabs that keep them from shifting are broken. replace them. its called a "fitting kit" if you get them from the dealer. theyre inexpensive and simple to replace.

There are no emergency brakes on the front wheels of vehicles.

Lift the car, remove the tire and set aside, remove the brake shoe/caliper and remove the old pad. Dispose of the old bad, add in the new pads, replace the brake shoe/caliper, replace the tire and lower the car.

New Master cylinder? Did you bench bleed? Car needs to be either on the ground or have the jackstands under the rear axles. If you have the jackstands any where else and the axle is at full travel the brake fluid will be cut off and will not bleed.

Remove wheels Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Remove caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper body Replace inner and outer pads Re-install caliper PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

it is an Allen wrench not a TORX socket

After you remove the tire and the pad the caliper has to be twisted to compress. Yo will not be able to compress using a C clamp. I can't remember if it is clock wise or counter clock wise.

If the brakes are disc brakes then try opening the bleed screws on the calipers and see if the pressure releases if not then remove the calipers and replace because the piston is probably frozen or you can try pushing in the piston with a c-clamp,if that doesnt work replace the calipers as noted. If the brakes are drum brakes then check your brake cylinders to see if they are leaking if so you can usually rebuild them if not then replace them and bleed your brake system to get brakes back to normal, you can also make sure your drum brakes are adjusted correctly.

This is caused by the pressure release in the brake lines when you retract the pistons in the brake calipers to accommodate the new brake pads that are thicker than the ones that are removed.

One can purchase Poise pads at all grocery and drugstores. Examples of stores are Safeway, Superstore, London Drugs and Rexall Drugs. One can also purchase Poise pads at big box retailers such as Walmart and Target.

If they are frozen, you should replace them.

Disk brakes on rear? My 96 aurora was simple The disk brake slave cylinder has to be screwed in after you get the caliper off. After that its just like any other disk brake pad replacement

Hears a trick that works real well for me. I asume that you have removed the brake cailber, And have hit it with a hamer between each stud being carefull not to hit the studs,And it still won't come off. Here's the trick water doe's not compress so take a glass of water and splash it on and around the studs of the rotor, Then hit it real hard between the studs. You may have to repeate this step once or twice. but it will come off. What happens is water will run around the studs and behind the rotor and when you strike it with a hamer,remember water won't compress so it pops the rotor off.