Car Heaters

I don't know if this is true forsure, but I found a wiki answer that said it was behind the distributor cap.

Because I bought an 89 accord that the cord is under the hood and it is not plugged into the block.

I am having trouble finding it though because I have a feeling I may have to remove the distributor cap to see where the plug goes and install it.

I also called the Honda dealer in my area and they said that it is either behind the distributor cap or by the oil filter.

To change the heater control panel on a Mercedes C180, remove the radio and the two screws under the CCU panel. Pry off panel and remove the bracket.

If your heating switch broke on the heater of a Toyota Previa 92, it will need changed. You can find a replacement at auto part stores.

just found my leaky heqter matrix had to remove all the bottom of the interiar dash the them un bolt the gear stick unbolt the whole heater system disconnect the hoses from the engine bay and wiggle the whole unit out then take the matrix out .it s a pig still got to put it all back again

If the thermostat is stuck wide open (and thus needing replacement) the engine will never achieve proper operating temperature and thus will not heat the interior of the car much.

there is a funnel you can buy that rests on top of the fill neck sealed. you fill it up, turn the car on let it run till it's warm and all the air will travel to the top of the system and exit atop the funnel, but i think this funnel is only available to mechs.

You have an air pocket in your cooling system. You either need to bleed out the system or, if it keeps reoccurring, replace either the intake or head gaskets. Also, try replacing your cap, it normally isn't the problem but hey, you may get lucky. A leaking cap will let air in also. Air in the system gets in the hose by your thermostat or water pump and keeps water from flowing to the heater core. Water gets trapped in the block and overheats.

remove both hoses from the heater and join them with a short piece of pipe about the size of the inner diameter of the hoses. use 2 hose clamps to sealed and hold the hoses on the pipe. Or- cut the hoses and do the same type joining. later you will need another pipe and two more clamps if you want to rehook it to your heater core.

Usually it is because most cars turn on the airconditioner as part of the defrost system. If your car has not been tuned up etc it may be too much load at idle.

I assume your car heater is blowing cold air, when the heater is on. It seems that, you have air on your coolant. that air pockets blocks the cooland to travel through your heater.

it may be a sign of a bigger problem such as blown head gasket in the old cars, such acura legend

Many things start with the basics.... full of good coolant proper type and spec is it new or the old stuff that is more than two years old ? Cooling fan coming on? Ckeck engine light on or off....... -----------0000000000000-------------- And youre not having to top up fluids. Most times when the temp guage rises and falls there's an airlock somewhere and its the air going past the temp sender that makes the guage fluctuate. The overheating is because the cooling system can't pressurize properly due to the trapped air. With the engine warm to the touch find the highest coolant pipe and loosten the highest end. Manipulate it but dont remove it air should escape from around it. When water flows retighten. Just like bleeding a domestic central heating system

Do you mean where on a car is a block heater install or who do you take the car to to install?

check to see you have a thermostat installed. If you have one then you have a damper open due to no vaccum or corroded or foam seal needs replacing

Fixed one of these this morning in front of my shop while carrying on a conversation with a friend who had stopped by. You will need approximately 2.5 feet of 1/8 inch rubber vacuum hose to effect this simple repair. After the engine has cooled completely, open the hood. After opening the hood, find the A/C accumulator (a large, silver cylinder just below the passenger side of the windshield). Looking around in that area and to the right and center of that area, you will find a small, black, plastic vacuum hose. This hose will have become brittle and cracked due to underhood heat. DO NOT PULL ON THE HOSE. Just to the right of the center top of the engine on the intake manifold, there is a black plastic vacuum distributor. Take your new rubber vacuum hose and, after removing the old hose, plug your new section onto the nipple. Route the new hose over to the small black plastic vacuum check valve that the old, broken hose originally went to near the accumulator. Voila! Air from the dash vents (or wherever you command). Good luck. SDI

The coil is dirty.Hose it out with a water hose.

You probably have a bad thermostat.

Could be a number of reasons. Low coolant would be my first suspect, although most motors offered in a Sterling would shut down if the coolant got low. The heater core could be bad, there could be blockage in the heating system somewhere, you might have a bad or blocked heater hose.

cause i left my btoy on it

its in the engine bay at the bulk head ,two heater pipes come off engine to it easy enuf to change really common fault

This happened to me last winter. It ended up being that I was low on anti-freeze. I filled up the reservoir with the correct mixture of anti-freeze and distilled water and voila I had heat!

On my 1998 ford aerostar the direction of air flow is controled by a vacuum motor, the other fords maybe the same. If vacuum is lost to the control switch the vacuum motor will not work. non activated position of motor is defrost position. On my 1998 ford aerostar I found that a vacuum line (note this vacuum line came off of a 3 connection vacuum splitter connection)that ran from engine compartment into firewall was connected inside of ac eveporator plastic cover inside passanger compartment. then the vacuum from there was routed from a plastic outlet and vacuum line, to the ac control switch. Sence I could not get to the inside of evaporator cover without much must work!! I ran a new line around the problem. to determine if this is your problem check for vacuum at little vacuum outlet at bottem of plastic evaporator cover inside passenger compartment maybe your line is just off there. Note, in surching for this problem I also found that a vacuum line that controled rear air flow was folded in half under dash preventing back ac from working properly. Blew heat all the time in back.

blower(fan motor) do go bad, before pulling out try and get to fan connection with a VOM and check for voltage.

There is a blend door behind the glove box that controls air mixture. You'll probably find that it is stuck. To completely remove this part, you may have to remove the dash a bit. I was able to free mine up by gently prying the box away from it's mount with a flat head screw-driver and repositioning it. It's been functional for almost a year now so I suspect this part can become stuck under certain conditions.

The year, make and model info would help. Also need to know if the blower motor is working, just not getting any heat, or not changing function between defrost, dash or floor vents.