Car Starting Problems

If it's a standard shift transmission you can "pop" start it by rolling down an incline, push the clutch in, put the trans in 2nd or 3rd gear, turn the ignition on, release the clutch and away you go. If it's an automatic, you're screwed.

You will have to be more specific. Race car is too broad a term. There are many different types of race cars using many different engines.

The solenoid/starter motor assembly is installed on the lower part of the engine next to the transmission bellhousing

The engine can be rebuilt, but you will obviously need a new crankshaft. Also, make sure that when you take the block to a machine shop, that they will align bore it. That's where they remove a small amount of material from the main-bearing mating surfaces and use a special boring rod to put the main's back into perfect alignment. If your crankshaft broke it's certainly possible that there was some damage to the alignment. If you have someone do it for you, make certain that they send it to an experienced machine shop. Too many shadetree mechanics don't have a clue about properly rebuilding an engine. Another possibility would be to get a "crate" engine from the dealership or some reputable specialists. Be careful when dealing with some of the discount auto parts houses. They'll sell "remanufactured" engines that have used parts, such as oil pumps or pistons. Read the labels and make certain that they at least CLAIM to use new parts and bore cylinders and recondition both big and little ends of the rods. Also you want NEW crankshaft and lifters. If youre asking what caused the broken crankshaft, there doesn't seem to be much of a specific cause. It's usually just time and a crankshaft that might have had a minor imperfection at manufacture. It is quite rare, but it happens. It would be difficult to force a crankshaft to break unless it were running high rpm and out of oil... but that would cause quite a bit of other damage as well.

Yur car has a "VATS" system - the key has a little 'chip' in it near the top. This is a resistor, which is read by the car computer when you try to start. The wires that connect the connector in the switch to the ECM are VERY thin, and often break. There are two ways to fix this. 1) The right way. You have to change the ignition switch. This is a royal pain involving disassembling the top end of the steering column. 2) The easy way. Put a mulitimeter across the chip and read the resistance, then disconnect the wires between the ignition switch and the ECM, and put that value of resistor in there. Here.... http://vats.likeabigdog.com/ is the detailed instructions on how to do this. Richard

Should be at the rear lower section of engine

Try putting the key in the driver's side door and locking and then unlocking it. It works in my 2001!

Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run

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If you have a new car and had purchased a safety tech package of some sort that is possibly the reason, see some newer cars have kill switches that are tripped by things that you don't even know you did, a kill switch is activated when the cars main computer system thinks it's being broken into, and for that reason it will block the starter and the engine will not start even with the key. To remove the kill switch you should call your dealer and ski them for the procedure because every car has it's own procedure. Hope this helps

When you say "When I turn the key nothing." do you mean to say that there is no clicking sound, or any other sound of any kind? If so, you might need to have a new ignition switch installed. A man I know told me the same thing, and when I asked him to try it for me, he pulled out a set of keys that had to weigh 8 pounds. Ignition switches aren't made to carry a lot of weight, bouncing down the road. Steering columns are stuffed with parts. If the switch is your problem, I would not recommend trying to repair it yourself. If you know how to hot wire your car, do so, and then drive it to a Dodge dealership. At least that way you could save the towing fee. luck.

It means that your car is not recognizing the immobilizer chip in your key.

fuel pump relay?

crawl under the car an remove it

4 cylinder - try the front lower section of the engine behind radiator 6 cylinder lower rear section of engine Try to follow + battery cable

Disconnect the - battery cable
Raise and support vehicle
Disconnect wiring at top of starter
Remove mounting bolts
Remove starter

too much petrol in the cylinder not being burnt

.050 inch

.050 inch

there are a number of reason for this, first check all the fuses and relays and make sure they are good and some relays are interchangeable, second check for a loose ground from the battery to the frame and from engine to frame, then take out the ecm and have it tested

Yes it would.

It's right underneath your clutch pedal. If you take a flashlight and look at where your acceleration, brake, and clutch are, you'll find that each of these has a fuse. The clutch fuse has a little rod that gets pushed in against a spring, and the fuse should have two wires, one black one red, running from it up into your car.

Not sure what you mean by "not starting properly". It either starts or it doesn't. I wonder if you mean the engine does not run properly after it starts. If that's the case, do not start spending money on parts hoping to solve the problem until you know where the problem lies. You want to check the plugs, air filter, inside the distributor cap, for cleanliness. After that check the spark plug and coil wires for cracks. Lastly, check for a good spark on each plug. After the "firing system" has been eliminated as culprit, ensure there is fuel getting to the combustion chamber. Check the engine for compression. Lastly, scan the diagnostic terminal for trouble codes (could be a bad throttle position sensor or something similar)

could be the air-conditioning. I had that and it was minor to fix.

poor battery connection or battery itself high resistance in battery cables would be some things to check plus beanch test starter itself