Car Starting Problems

From your question, I assume the car will not start on the new battery alone, but will start if you add a "jump" to it. The bushings inside the starter may be worn and the starter is dragging and not spinning fast enough to start the engine unless it has that extra "jump". Remove the starter and inspect it - sometimes grime and grit will get inside and prevent enough power to get to the armature to make it spin fast enough, Also test the starter by clamping the positive jumper cable on the post where the battery cable attaches and the negative on the "ear" of the starter where the bolts go through that attach it to the engine. Before you attach the negative cable, make sure the starter is secure because it will "recoil". If the starter spins easily, the problem lies elsewhere. If it is hard to spin, the bushings are worn or it may have a lot of dirt and grime inside. If you hear a definite metal-on-metal grinding noise, the bushings are badly worn.

Take out one of the spark plugs. Check whether it sparks.

The starter is located behind the motor on the side of the oil filter you can follow the negative cable of the batery and you l see two screws one of them holds the sterter an to take out the other you must rise the car and deconect the cables from the starter and also to take it out you need to take it out the oil filter because you gone a need space to bring down ijust chanche mine afew days ago

My dear friend, you have experienced an engine "throwing a rod". That is to say, a piston rod broke within the engine block, thus the loud knock, The engine will not start with a jump because it cannot turn because of the broken rod. The reason it starts with a tow or a push is because the engine is "forced to turn" when the transmission is engaged and the clutch is released. The loud noise will be there and mpre damage will be caused by trying to turn the engine without repairing it - damage as severe as a broken block, scored crankshaft, etc.

Try spraying a lubricant of some sort into the key hole and turning the key back and forth. Otherwise you'll need to take the ignition out and take the whole thing to a locksmith.

You can join a auto mechanic class if there's one offered near your home. Usually these courses are offered at adult schools, vocational schools, etc... There is a small fee to join the class but you'll save a lot of money by doing the labor yourself and with the help of your classmates. You can google this.

the same thing happend to me but mine shut off while i was driving take the spark plugs and see if the cylinders are filled with fuel it might be hydro locked. If there is fuel that means the fuel line came off inside your engine buts easy to fix.

Well I take it that this is an aftermarket alarm system. If you do not plan on using the alarm anymore and just want your vehicle to start then go under the dash and locate the wires comming out of the ignition cylinder. Then find a black wire with a white stripe and follow it until it gets cut and taped into the aftermarket alarm. Now cut away the aftermarket alarm wires and attach the two ends of the black/white wire back up together again

It could be that the ABS has been engaged. The release for it is usually a small "slider" tyoe switch on the shift console.

Try cleaning the battery posts and then check to make sure that the terminals are tight when reaplied.

Carb.? May need to be re-built or replaced

This is a pretty vague question.Are you mechanically inclined? Have you had any tests run on the car. Basic test would be check the voltage on the battery,car running and engine off.Will the engine crank? Check your air filter to make sure it is not stopped up. Check to see if you have any spark going to the spark plugs.Check for fuel delivery. Is the check engine light on.What happened prior to the engine not starting?Do you have antitheft system? I would need more information to be of any further help. I hope that is a start. There are two websites that might be useful to you. One is www.nissanhelp.com and the other one is www. pdftown.com. both of these websites have a lot of good information on technical service bulletins,recalls,specifications,technicql manuals,maintenance information. You will have to register on them to be able to login. Hope this helps!

Does not have one.

I'm not a mechanic / technician but by any chance are you out of gas

The CHECK " GAGE " light on my Ford EXPLORER would come on if the engine

coolant temperature is too HIGH , the engine oil pressure is too LOW , or the

gas gauge is at or near empty

Catalytic converter due to unburned fuel being burnt in the converter.

It can also cause damage to the ignition module.

"Backfiring" is usually caused by a spark plug "sparking" when it isn't its turn and the exhaust valve is open. If your air/fuel mixture is too rich, and you have unburned fuel in the exhaust system; cross firing from one spark plug wire to another can occur. If they are touching each other and when this happens while the exhaust valve is open, it will ignite the rich / unburned mixture in the exhaust manifold and tail pipes and result in a big bang. Back firing can also be cause by a cracked distributor cap, or one that has carbon tracking inside which causes cross firing between the terminals inside, which in turn, sends spark to a spark plug that isn't ready for it yet.

Angle sensor shaft

Try replacing the starter. If by low cranking amp you mean the starter is not rotating or is rotating very slowly, there are two possibilities: (1) The battery is not the correct one for your vehicle - you probably need a battery with more amps output. Check at your local auto parts store for the correct battery for your vehicle. (2) The starter is either stuck or "dragging". Dragging is caused by worn bushings, allowing the starter to drag against the armature within the starter, rotating v-e-r-y slowly or not at all. You will definitely hear a grinding or dragging sound as the starter tries to rotate. If the starter does not turn at all, the starter drive may be locked up, or it may be burnt out.

I am having problems getting my 1986 Acrua Ledgen to start. First we thought it needed a tune up. That didnt work, then we changed the distibutor and cap. That didnt work, Then we changed the fuel pump and coil, That didnt work and we changed the fuel relay switch. and that didnt work. The car work ok when its running but want start sometime and keeps my stranded. What should I do. Please Help me

I am not sure if you mean flooded as in too much gas or submerged into water. If it is by gas then you could just let it set and try again later or take out individual plugs and use compressed air to blow them dry.

Now if you are talking about water that is a whole different beast. You need to remove all the plugs at once and turn the engine over several times to blow out any water. Dry the air filter out. Then you need to put fresh oil in it.

its a bit tough but first disconnect the battery.then jack the car up safely.after that remove the two starter mounting bolts and pull the starter out slowly.then unbolt the wires at the starter when the starter is hanging by the wires(carefully)remove the starter and reverse the steps to reinstall the starter and reconnect the battery

Here's a writeup on the process. http://hubpages.com/hub/Starter-Removal-1999-Pontiac-Grand-Prix

One of two possibilities for black smoke and not re-starting: (1) the spark plug is fouled and not providing full ignition to the gasoline thereby allowing the engine to flood = nned to clean or change the spark plug (2)carburetor needs adjustment(s) = the float may be stuck in the open position; the linkage may be off and not allowing choke to open clompletely; the needle valve(s) may have vibrated to a more open position.

You might want to check the Hall effect pick up on TBI models or the Signal Generator switch plate on MPI models. I had issues that sound the same as yours. It would drive me crazy and finally would start again. It is located in the Distributore cap. It is not hard to change. Good luck.